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Cold starting issues..72 wagon


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Okay holy hell more issues:confused: Going to work 65 on the freeway & heard a dull backfire that most likely came from the carb & the engine died. Pulled over & tried to restart w/ no luck. AAA to the rescue again. I suspect the plug got fouled "again" so ill replace those & in a few days ill swap on my matchbox dist. so the points can be eliminated finally. Will check/adjust the valves too while im in there. If the plug are fouled again any ideas why this is happeneing?

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Maybe because you're swapping wheels too often... :P, j/k sorry to hear you're having to deal with that still. Slap in that dizzy and call it a day.

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Ok , replaced the plugs, they were sooty but didnt smell of gas....turned it over no start...

put the stock coil back on turned it over no start...

installed my matchbox dist. & EI coil turned it over no start...

Fuel is getting to the carb....Damm near killed the battery in the process. The only wiring mod i did was take the 2 wires that went to the ballast & connected them to the + side of the coil. Gonna double check & make sure i wired the matchbox correctly tomorrow. Am i missing something???

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when i installed my matchbox i had to chage the pattern of the spark plugs. i had to put the first spark plug were the 3 used to be. and then its was 1-3-4-2 from there. mabe thats what you need to do. if you need help let me know i can drive to your house and try to help you find the problem.

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TY Jose. Yeah the #1 position did change & i went 1-3-4-2 like you said. I suppose the coil could be bad or even the carb. may be the problem. OK been reading up on other EI dist. install ?'s & it seems that my dist. doesnt have the RED & BLACK wires coming off of it. Ill get pics tomorrow.

Edited by Pacific coast Datsun
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Still no start, heres what i did..

confirmed TDC compression by removing valve cover & lobes @ 2 & 10.

confirmed plug wires are 1-3-4-2 CC wise..

B goes to + & C goes to - on EI coil...

[stock harness, used to go to ballast] blue/black & black wire go to +on EI coil...

turned over a few times, no luck...

removed coil wire @ dist. cap & turned over to look for spark,,no start...

put old [stock] coil back on & wired up the same way.. turned over no start...

removed coil wire @ cap AGAIN to test for spark,,nothing...

used test light to try & find power @ BOTH coils & no light :mad:

hooked up black/yellow wire to B on matchbox, turned over no start.

float level in carb is normal [halfway] & gas IS getting to carb...

I suppose both coils could be bad or im off a bit on the 11.28 position, other than that what am i missing/ doing wrong???

 

 

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just went out to my car and saw that the black wire with white stripe that was hooked on the resister is the one connected to the + on the coil. the black with blue stripe is not connected to anything. hope this helps. i have my stock coil thats was working fine if you need it or we can try the one on my car.

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Yeah I was about to say why not try someone else's running car's coil to remove all doubt about the coil situation. Hope it gets fixed soon.

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pull the wires to the coil.(this will isolate if the coil is shorted)

Now get a testlight/volt meter. Put igntion to "ON" the test light should lite up or you have 12volts. at the end of the blk/wht wire.

 

The blk/blu is the hot start bypass.(only need ed if running points w/ballast).

But you can ck this by putting the key to START and you should get 12volt or the test light lights up.(need to pull the starter wire to ck this so motor does not crank over).

If you dont have 12volt I would wiggle and ck the fuse and the main power wire to the fuse box. also unplugg the connector under the coloum and plug it back in incase there is corrosion.

 

I have really never seen a coil go BAD yet alone 2 of them.

 

I heard of ground proplems on the matchboxes.

ballast510_thumb.jpg

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just ck for power at the blk/wht wire first(no coil hooked up to it) and see what happens with key ON. there should be POWER. IF not there is your proplem and work backwards from there.

 

If there is power then it just be a slight corrossion where the current is breaking down to loose spark, bad coil or something.

 

I will assume when you say NO SPARK its the center plug wire you pull and place it near ground. and you try to START the car. and there is no snapping spark to ground.????????

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Ok will do.

Ok hopefully theres power @ the blk/wht wire

& yes i pulled the coil wire @ the coil, set near a ground, turned over & NO spark. But..at that time i had both the blk/wht & the blk/blue wires going to the + on the coil which may be why i got nothing.

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But..at that time i had both the blk/wht & the blk/blue wires going to the + on the coil which may be why i got nothing.

 

That is a OK as it worked before.

Some people short both the blk/wht & blk/blu but I dont think its needed.

 

That should not be your proplem if those wires are shorted out. Its OK. the blk/blu wire is like the ballast resisitor is not installed,just goes straigh to the coil.

 

try cking for the 12volts and wigggle the key switch.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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OK used the test light on the blk/white wire..no power so i backtrack all the way to the fuse block & after 30 seconds i find this............

5-5-09fusablelinkbad.jpg

The freakin fusible link is semi melted & broken. I run a new jumper wire between the 2 connectors, hook B & the blk/whiite to + & C to - on the EI coil. Turn key & she fires on the 1st start :D but i notice now the dash lights & gauges [factory] dont work:confused: Also i think the timing is off, kind of sputters @ idle & backfires when i rev the gas.

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If gauge lites dont work Put on the headlitghts

then go back to the tail light and see if the rear light are ON. If not thne it has to be a fuse or connection in the fuse box area.

 

This happen to my 521 No tail lights.(Cop pulled me over) But I notice I did not have any dash lites but said Fuck it. Drove home moved the fuses around in there sockets then it worked fine. The replaced all the fuses with new ones.

 

 

 

I will assume this is the EI set up you installed back in there so make sure its back to TDC and I dont know if your point dizzy is set up the same as rotor location at TDC. also use the EI coil as a stock "POINT COILwill not like a straight 12volt power source(point coil runs at 6-9volts cut due to ballast resisitor.

 

 

 

You need to ask yourself are you running something else of that circut???? if the wire get hot I maybe would try another coil or put the stock set up back in with ballast and point coil to keep it from running to much current thru that circut.

 

Maybe its no big deal and wires were corroded and just burnt up and the new wire will fix it.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Ok Hainz you rock for all the advise :thumbup: This should've been a simple swap if it werent for the burnt fusible link. I AM running the EI coil & gapped the plugs @ .042. The matchbox is now close to the ex. manifold so ill make a small heat shield & # 1 is now by the thermostat. She runs way better than before & has more power on the freeway. Pics tomorrow of the setup/wiring.

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