wayno Posted February 26, 2018 Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 That I did not know, a 620 with an electric fuel pump stock, I learn new things all the time. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 26, 2018 Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 I am using NGK plugs, they were recommended on the Canadian tire website. I know copper is best but I got iridium for longevity. I crawled under and pulled off the pump, the fuel filter was clean and mostly empty. A couple knocks on the gas tank showed it was empty! The gas gauge is at the first line after the E, is this line not the quarter tank mark? I have never been able to tell if a tank is empty by knocking on it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted February 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 Doesn't look like I have air conditioning. The gauge does go to empty when I turn the key off, and up when I fill it- guess I'm just used to the E mark being actual empty. Didn't look like the pump comes apart. Fixed the loud fuel pump by getting a gerry can of gas & fillin' er' up. Still wondering if the pump is meant to be silent. With the car off, pulling the lights knob turns on the fuel pump...lol At least It sounded that way, I'll check tomorrow. Picked up some black leather seats out of an old Honda from the local pick n pull. They look race-ish. 30 bucks. Pretty cool. Post pics later. 1 Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted February 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 I have never been able to tell if a tank is empty by knocking on it. Mr Nagashima can even tell you if it contains pineapples. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 26, 2018 Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 The stock 620 electric fuel pump is the same as the 720 electric fuel pumps. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 26, 2018 Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 Yup and the bottom unscrews and has a magnet to collect rust and trash. Forgot to mention this was also an option on the '77 and up Camper Special the for-runner of the Cab Chassis option? Likely this is an after market pump to replace the original one mounted on the outside of the right rear frame just ahead of the tire. A after market pump will require an in line filter between tank and pump. 2 Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted February 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2018 Yeah the pump looks nothing like that charlie, looks like your right Mike. Any idea what this object with the light inside of it is? https://s18.postimg.org/totzcm7nt/IMG_20180226_100326.jpg https://s18.postimg.org/bm0wlhr9l/IMG_20180220_175800.jpg 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 27, 2018 Report Share Posted February 27, 2018 When you post photos after you click on the share link you want to pick the "hotlink for forums" which is second link from the bottom, at least it is for me, but I have a desktop. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 27, 2018 Report Share Posted February 27, 2018 The container with the light in it is the light source for the fiber optic cables that go to the headlamp and wiper switches to light them up. Maybe others? 1 Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted February 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2018 Damn I tried all the other options and gave up... Ok fibre optics, that actually makes sense, thanks alot guys. 1 Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted February 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2018 Oh, on that note, the 12v+ line going to the potentiometer that controls the dash lights & fibre optics...dimmer I think it's called - had no power in it. I wired it up, but still curious if it has... A fuse or something somewhere? I have found...7 fuses, all are good. The alternator seemed to be unregulated, seems fine now; With the deep cell house battery wired up to the alternator along with the running battery -I could not distinguish which little metal box is the regulator? I'll try googling. I'll get a pic of the lil box's tomorrow. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 27, 2018 Report Share Posted February 27, 2018 The alternators from '78 and up had built in regulators. All Datsuns had this. 1 Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted February 27, 2018 Report Share Posted February 27, 2018 You will definitely regret putting a smaller dial steering wheel on your motor home, unless you seriously enjoy an upper body workout whenever you drive it. a If you’re considering the 720 brake upgrade, and want a quicker alternative than a power steering upgrade, you might consider a 720 ST steering wheel. Although the skinny brown fake wood on the orig 620 steering wheel looks good and is classic Datsun, the skinny wheels are hard to grab and turn while wrestling with it turning the vehicle around or backing in and out of a parking\ camping spot. The 720 wheels are twice as thick, insulated with rubber, don’t slip thru sweaty hands, and way easier to hold onto on cold mornings. If you have a lot of patience, you can also recover the rubber with a leather kit from Pep Boys. 2 Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted February 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2018 Hmmm...that 720 wheel does look better, too bad I won't be finding one at the local junk yard. I see one on eBay for 125, and another oem for 225. Wondering if they except lint. Ok, internal regulator, excellent. Thanks for the information guys. Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted February 28, 2018 Report Share Posted February 28, 2018 Over the past 2-3 years I’ve found 3 of those steering wheels in junk yards, $ 22 ea with the hub. Kept one for each of my vehicles and sold the 3rd. I can keep my eye out for you if you’re interested. There is a regular seller at the Eagle Rock swap meet that usually has one or two. If I recall he prices them from $75-100 depending on cond. Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 Over the past 2-3 years I’ve found 3 of those steering wheels in junk yards, $ 22 ea with the hub. Kept one for each of my vehicles and sold the 3rd. I can keep my eye out for you if you’re interested. There is a regular seller at the Eagle Rock swap meet that usually has one or two. If I recall he prices them from $75-100 depending on cond. Sure, if you happen to spot one :) Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 Pulled the carb off and put a new one on. Those 4 bolts...wtf. And that emissions system - too much in the way, cluttered. Turned over the engine and it just started screaming, guess that'll be the idle screw, gonna see about tuning it tomorrow. Polished the head, +12HP. Also...what is this part? 2 Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 Go to the swap meet, Harbor Freight, pep boys, etc and buy a single 12mm wrench, cheap. Quality is not important. Heat it with a torch, &/or bend it in a vice, Grind the sides thin, &/or grind down the leges of the open ends a bit, until you customize it to reach the carb nuts easier. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 I cut an open end to about 3 1/2". This way it could swing through a wider arc without hitting everything 1 Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 Hey...that's a pretty good idea! 1 Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 Oh you know what... I'm probably gonna want to set the idle to a particular rpm. I don't have a tachometer, any advice? Smooth and not shaking the bolts out Perhaps. 1 Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 Ok, wasn't the idle screw, now I need help. Engine starts up and goes full throttle, what's the likely cause? Air filter is off, did it with it on. No missing vacuum's. Gas below dot in fuel window. WTF? 2 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted March 5, 2018 Report Share Posted March 5, 2018 throttle getting stuck? Binding somewhere? Good idea to get a tach..really cheap. 2 Quote Link to comment
Deleteme Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 Ya it turned out to be a fragment of throttle cable less than it needed, like a milimeter and also I was turning the air/fuel mixture screw and not the idle screw! And the choke mechanism doesn't hold it's place very well. Had to hold the choke and push the throttle down after turning the idle screw out to the max. But now I have sprung a leak. Bottom radiator hose was ice cold...top hose was hot. Overflow hose to resevoir was cold aswell. The original carburetor is much more solid and less finicky. The choke mechanism on this new one is shit. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2018 Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 So idle is now ok? It's hard to trouble shoot more than one problem at a time. Where's the leak? Your coolant is an anti freeze mix??? 1 Quote Link to comment
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