datsuntech Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Yes, the studs are normally pressed into the stub axle. Yes, the bracket is some custom thing. Since you have it all apart it's easy to put new bearings in, might as well. 1 Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Thanks! I got brackets from the engineering Datsun website and got myself new maxima calipers and 200sx rotors (still to arrive from rock auto) So I have to cut off that custom bracket on both sides ..sheesh I wonder what caliper they used with that rotor Yes, the studs are normally pressed into the stub axle. Yes, the bracket is some custom thing. Since you have it all apart it's easy to put new bearings in, might as well. Quote Link to comment
datsuntech Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Cutting that bracket off doesn't look like much fun. Even if you knew what caliper, the offset would be way off the rotor you just ordered. Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted April 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 I’m buying the bearings off rock auto and just to be sure I need X2 rear outer bearing X2 rear inner bearing x4 rear wheel seals And I’m re-using the shim or whatever the cylinder thing is in between the bearings correct? Got all my parts for the rear disc conversion :) I just need to get some new wheel studs how to capture screen 1 Quote Link to comment
datsuntech Posted April 19, 2018 Report Share Posted April 19, 2018 Close, but there are only two seals needed. The bearings are sealed so there is no need or provision for an outer seal. The inner one runs on the companion flange. So just to be clear. 2 outer bearings, 2 inner bearings, 2 inner seals and new nuts. Make sure you get sealed bearings. The original ones were open, and you had to pack grease in there. Not necessary with sealed bearings, but put grease in the middle anyway to keep it from filling full of rust. BTW, no need to "press" in new bearings. These are a snug fit, but are usually removable/ replaceable with a long punch. I was going to post a couple of pictures, but can't find any. :( The factory service manual has diagrams and has good descriptions. Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted April 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 Thanks! Got the bearings and seals ordered but I couldn’t find the nuts. Does Rock auto sell the new nuts? EDIT : nvm found them ! Close, but there are only two seals needed. The bearings are sealed so there is no need or provision for an outer seal. The inner one runs on the companion flange. So just to be clear. 2 outer bearings, 2 inner bearings, 2 inner seals and new nuts. Make sure you get sealed bearings. The original ones were open, and you had to pack grease in there. Not necessary with sealed bearings, but put grease in the middle anyway to keep it from filling full of rust. BTW, no need to "press" in new bearings. These are a snug fit, but are usually removable/ replaceable with a long punch. I was going to post a couple of pictures, but can't find any. :( The factory service manual has diagrams and has good descriptions. Quote Link to comment
datsuntech Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 You should be able to get them at any Nissan dealer. Should be less than that. Nissan Part #, 43262-21000 (or 43262-21050). Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted April 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 Thanks for all the help! :) Next question. My 510 is missing the roof brace inside the car. Is the wagon roof brace the same? I have access to a wagon You should be able to get them at any Nissan dealer. Should be less than that. Nissan Part #, 43262-21000 (or 43262-21050). 1 Quote Link to comment
datsuntech Posted April 23, 2018 Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 You got me there... I have no idea. Logic would dictate that it should be similar to the 4dr. You should be able to make it work. Drill out all of the spot welds and it should in theory weld right in. Make sure to use a urethane sealant on the seams to keep it from rattling. Sikaflex or windshield urethane works well. Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted April 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 Ok awesome, that’s what I was thinking. Im going on Tuesday to pick it up then :D You got me there... I have no idea. Logic would dictate that it should be similar to the 4dr. You should be able to make it work. Drill out all of the spot welds and it should in theory weld right in. Make sure to use a urethane sealant on the seams to keep it from rattling. Sikaflex or windshield urethane works well. Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted April 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Soo..since I took off the stub axles at night I didn’t notice how banged up they were. I was wondering why the nuts were already at the end of the threads... anyone have a pair they can sell me ?? Quote Link to comment
datsuntech Posted April 28, 2018 Report Share Posted April 28, 2018 Those look like they've been on and off more than a few times. How hard did the nuts come off? They're supposed to torqued to over 200 ft lbs. Did you remove the peening before taking them off? BTW, there shouldn't be any threads showing with the nuts tight. You know, they almost look like someone took a torch to the nut and cut into the threads. They are supposed to have notches near the end to peen the nut though.You could always get a die and clean up the threads if you can't find any. 20mmx1.5 pitch. https://www.amazon.com/20mm-1-5-Metric-Hex-Rethreading/dp/B0007CNJ2W Also IIRC 240Z axles are the same so there's that, but don't quote me. OK, just looked it up 240Z rear stub axles are the same. Man, I used to know this stuff off the top of my head, but getting old now and things get foggy. 2 Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted April 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2018 They were already at the end of the threads when I got the car unfortunately. That’s good to know though that 240z stub axles are the same! I just picked up one from a guy locally so he saved my butt, gave it to me for free too:) I noticed on the one he gave me that it has the dust cover and the ones that I hVe don’t though Those look like they've been on and off more than a few times. How hard did the nuts come off? They're supposed to torqued to over 200 ft lbs. Did you remove the peening before taking them off? BTW, there shouldn't be any threads showing with the nuts tight. You know, they almost look like someone took a torch to the nut and cut into the threads. They are supposed to have notches near the end to peen the nut though.You could always get a die and clean up the threads if you can't find any. 20mmx1.5 pitch. https://www.amazon.com/20mm-1-5-Metric-Hex-Rethreading/dp/B0007CNJ2W Also IIRC 240Z axles are the same so there's that, but don't quote me. OK, just looked it up 240Z rear stub axles are the same. Man, I used to know this stuff off the top of my head, but getting old now and things get foggy. 1 Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted May 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 I did something Cut off the bracket that was welded on I wrestled the farthest nut and bolt for a good 2 hours before it came out. Rust would not let the bolt slide out at all! Got tired after yanking this control arm out so I mounted stuff to see what it would look like Going to proceed to strip arm and primer /paint it black , press in new bearings and paint stub axles while I wait for wheel studs to come in 1 Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted May 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2018 Ugh. I got everything off the second control arm But the closest bolt to the body. The bolt is seized in the bushing collar. Heat didn’t do anything but melt out the bushing. I’m Going to try and use a sawsall on the collar and cut on both sides of the control arm Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted May 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 Yay :D Question. Has anyone done a strut mod for the rear trunk lid? someone removed those bars /spring thing assembly that Keeps the lid open. image upload Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted May 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2018 So I just noticed I got two bearings that fit and two bearings that are too big. Also the dust seal is too small:/. Did I order the right shit ? Edit : just noticed I bought wagon dust seals lol The red beck/arnley fit But the ones circled are too big Quote Link to comment
Hrvat9 Posted May 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 Anyone know why they were bigger? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 9, 2018 Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 Well i know the problem exists with a 521 front inner wheel bearing.... they will sell you one through every website and parts store that are wrong..... My recommendation is clean up the old bearing and look for some numbers on it.... that's how I was able to get the correct one for the front of my truck.... I can only assume that is similar to what your dealing with.. Quote Link to comment
datsuntech Posted May 10, 2018 Report Share Posted May 10, 2018 I bet if you check the bearing that fits, it will fit on the other side too. If I recall correctly The Datsun 510 uses the same bearing for inner and outer. The Z and 200SX and early Maxima use a bigger and smaller bearing. I've had this issue before, but of course it's been many years since I've done one as they tend to last for 30-40 years. I feel bad that I didn't remember this and let you know. Brock Quote Link to comment
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