New to forum, restoring a 1985 720 4x4

[la_leo]

Any advice that I cant get is appreciated in advance. Next week I'm buying a completely original 1985 720 4x4. Z24 engine (carbureted.) This truck is a ONE owner (crazy right) and has 75,000 original miles and has never been thrown in a mud hole. Now the bad news. It's been sitting for about a year without running. The gas has gone stale, so I'll probable just buy a Weber replacement and see if the fuel tank and lines are salvageable. Its FILTHY from sitting under trees. I'll probably go through the systems, brakes, electrical, A/C, steering, suspension, etc. One thing I've researched is that I should go ahead and change the head gasket and bolts. Here's my list so far:

 

Replace carb (with a Weber) and drain and clean the fuel system. Is 280 dollars about the right price for these things? Thought it was a little steep, but that's with the adapter plate and everything else.

 

Change all fluids (front end, rear end, transfer case, front diff.) Probably will need a new transmission from what the owner told me, he stated that overdrive doesn't work. That will hopefully be something easy to fix and hopefully a full rebuild won't be needed. Might also flush the power steering and will definitely flush the brake system. All the drive-train belts are shot and I'm sure there are some cobwebs and mice nests somewhere.

 

There are a few rot spots in the bed from having leaves decay in it over time. I'll have to address that. Also a rot spot under the hood where radiator mounts at (well next to it in front of the battery.) Frame looks solid, I'm sure ill hook it up with some rust converter and under coat.

 

The inside is gross, I'll probably get new carpets for 150 dollars (aftermarket.) The seats are ripped, may re upholster or just go the cheap route with covers. It's going to be a hunting truck, not a trophy, but I want it to be reliable. Also the steering wheel needs replacing, the wrapped leather and foam is all torn up (don't think a cover will do.)

 

Mechanically I want to check the valve clearance, change the oil, and make sure it's safe to start up. Anything else you guys can think of? I'm not 100 percent sure how I need to check the valves, but I assume I pull the valve cover and use a wrench on a lock nut and adjust with a flat head. I think I read on here that the engine needs to be at TDC for some of the valves, and turned over one whole turn for the other. THANKS!

 

[Lockleaf]

Head bolts are not torque to yield, so you can snug them down. On a dead cold engine, one at a time, loosen a head bolt, then retorque it down to 60 ft lbs. Do this to all of them. Order doesn't matter. Z24s are known for losing head gaskets around 100k. You can avoid that problem by torqing the head back down periodically.

 

Valve clearances on the z24 are supposed to be done on a hot engine, so keep that in mind if setting them cold and set them on the wide side.

[la_leo]

 

 

So you dont think I should just put a new head gasket and bolts? I'm changing the coolant anyway, but if it's a case of if it aint broke dont fix it I'll take your advice.

[Lockleaf]

I would say dont worry about it if it's not bad

[datzenmike]

What you describe sounds like it has more mileage that 75K. Interior, seats ripped, carpet, steering wheel, trans over drive not working (gas doesn't go stale in only a year of sitting.) Carb should be fine, get her running and find out first before spending on a weber. (btw $300 is about right for price)

 

 

There are 8 valves to set with one at the front, and eight at the rear. Warm engine fully and set to TDC compression stroke on number one cylinder. If the cam lobes are generally pointing up, turn the engine ONE turn. The 1 and 2 cam lobes should be downward. All valves to be set to 0.012"

 

Loosen lock nuts and adjust 1, 2, 3, 5 valves. Don't forget to tighten the lock nut and check the setting one last time.

 

Turn engine ONE turn back to TDC

 

Loosen lock nuts and adjust  4, 6,  7, 8 valves. Don't forget to tighten the lock nut and check the setting one last time.

 

This eliminates constantly bumping the engine with the starter or by hand for every valve and speeds the job enough that the engine does not have time to cool down.

[la_leo]

Its got 75k. It just wasn't looked after well. Body is nice though. I appreciate the help!

[datzenmike]

That's a shame. They are nice looking trucks when restored. Give it some love.

[la_leo]

I plan on getting it back on the road by next year! hey any clue where I can buy a factory service manual for this 85 720? I wouldn't mind finding a pdf version and printing it. No luck on ebay, and no luck on a pdf for an 85!

[datzenmike]

Type: I found the mother load of manuals into the search function. There is a post on Nissan manuals I just can't post a link as I'm at work.

[Rhino13]

I plan on getting it back on the road by next year! hey any clue where I can buy a factory service manual for this 85 720? I wouldn't mind finding a pdf version and printing it. No luck on ebay, and no luck on a pdf for an 85!

I believe oreillys and autozone both carry them. I don't suggest getting much more from them, but the ones by me do have a good selection of books. It'll most likely be a book for 720 and d21 trucks.

[la_leo]

Type: I found the mother load of manuals into the search function. There is a post on Nissan manuals I just can't post a link as I'm at work.

 

Checked it, only manual is for an 82 model. 

[la_leo]

I believe oreillys and autozone both carry them. I don't suggest getting much more from them, but the ones by me do have a good selection of books. It'll most likely be a book for 720 and d21 trucks.

I used to sell the Chilton's and Hayne's. Don't like them. 

[Rhino13]

If you don't mind ordering it this is my personal favorite. Wasn't sure if you needed it asap

 

https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Your-Datsun-Nissan-Alive/dp/0912528656

[wayno]

I have a 1984 Nissan 720 pickup service manual, I found it at a used book store, I hardly ever use it, but it does have diesel engine stuff in it, that is why I bought it.

The electrical stuff in it is hard to understand, it has electrical diagrams for each individual piece of electrical hardware, but it doesn't make a lot of sense to me.

It also is very hard to find specific info in the book, but once what your looking for has been found, it is very detailed. 

[datzenmike]

The wiring diagram in the very back is shit. They used to show every wire with color codes now its just a box with a few lines to show there is a connection.... I never use it. The individual electrical parts like the lighting system shows only the lighting system so other wires don't make it confusing. Wipers and heater and dash lamps, tail lights, gauges, ignition system and so on are all separate with wire runs and color codes. I find the more you use it the easier it becomes.

[la_leo]

Thanks for the replies. I Think forums are the best things for do it your selfers. I'm a long time member of chevy and ford forums. New To this one though. I sent you a PM datsunaholic

[la_leo]

Thanks to Wayno I just got a like new 1985 factory service manual for 15 bucks on ebay!!!