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Front camber on 720


Vinny720

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Crank down torsion bars is the first step. This will lower it and camber it. If that is not enough, then look at the upper control arm where it mounts to the truck. It is held on by two bolts. Between the control arm and the frame there may be some alignment shims, slipped over those two bolts. They are U shaped. Loosen the bolts and the shims come off. Bolt control arm straight to frame for maximum available camber.

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Wanting to add negative camber. so I can tuck my wheels and not have to roll my fenders.

Get flairs if you have the wrong rims and tires or put some thought into the next set of rims. No one 'wants' a camber mobile. Besides, how you going to do the rears???

 

 

 

wtf2.jpg

 

With some thought and a lot of work you can lower your ride height with minimal camber added. There are drop spindles for the D-21 Hardbody that will fit the 720. Flairs will cover tires that are outside the fenders. What's cool is it's obvious you went to some trouble to get it right. But if the rims are the wrong offset to begin with or unrealistically wide with tires to match, going mad camber to tuck them is simply, incompetent.

4838993508_0770f24341.jpg

 

Now if you seriously want it to look like this.... you're on your own.

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That's true. Flares may be an option. My wheels and tires fit but the fender just rubs a bit on the sidewall when I hit bumps. I'm not running anything crazy like a 15x10 with stretched tires. They are 15x8 with 225/50's. I actually just raised it up a bit so I don't damage my tires anymore to get me by until I figure something out. But thanks for the advice mike!

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Removing shims doesn't make the wheels tilt inward, adding shims does.  That's because the upper A-arm mount is INSIDE the suspension tower.

 

It's also why it's damn near impossible to get the camber actually CORRECT (not excessively negative) when lowering them with torsions alone.  You can't take out enough shims to correct the negative camber because the dogbone is now bolted straight to the tower.  That's why someone used to make custom A-arms for that purpose.  Now, if you were LIFTING the front end, it's easier to correct the camber- just add more shims to get rid of the positive camber.

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  • 3 weeks later...

 Now, if you were LIFTING the front end, it's easier to correct the camber- just add more shims to get rid of the positive camber.

 

I know what you meant, but my stock 620 had a lot of negative camber. The angle of the upper control arms was pretty steep to the point where if I lowered it a tad the camber may turn less negative. I think if I were to add more shims here, the camber would go more negative. 

 

Steering wheel has some input, which is why one looks like it has more toe. 

 

DSC03172%20no%20plate_zpseesucbvq.jpg

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Toe is equally spread between the two tires. I'm saying you can't drive it with one wheel straight and the other toed in or out. The truck would automatically push or pull to one side and you would correct to the opposite to balance The tires would tend to fight each other to go straight down the road by turning in or out a roughly equal amount.

 

Generally if you can see the toe (in or out) with the wheels facing forwards, it needs adjusting

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Toe is equally spread between the two tires. I'm saying you can't drive it with one wheel straight and the other toed in or out. The truck would automatically push or pull to one side and you would correct to the opposite to balance The tires would tend to fight each other to go straight down the road by turning in or out a roughly equal amount.

 

I'm not sure if you were responding to my post. I only mentioned about toe in my picture because the shadowing might make it appear off. 

 

Well...you also have to take thrust angle into consideration. You could have the toe off and one front tire pointing straight and the other having inward or outward toe and drive straight if a bad (or good, in this case?) thrust angle was compensating. You surely would have a tire wear problem, and it'll surely handle funny! 

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