Boundish Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 14x7 0 offset all around with 195/60 in the front and 195/65 in the back I might have to go 195/55 if I could find them they don't rub but time to time they can if the road is rough. Sweet +4 offset should work just fine then ,as i think im not going to lower the car . Quote Link to comment
ArchetypeDatsun Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Fender flares don't look bad if you go wider. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 14x7 0 offset all around with 195/60 in the front and 195/65 in the back I might have to go 195/55 if I could find them they don't rub but time to time they can if the road is rough. With 16 inch wheels it will definitely rub these cars don't have a lot of room in the wheels wells. A 195/60R14" with 0 offset is 7.68" wide and 23.21" tall. A 185/50R16" with 0 offset is 7.28" wide and 23.28" tall. So the rim size doesn't cause rub the tire selection does. Just for an example if you had a 20" donk rim with zero offset and could find 195/20R20 tires they would also be 7.68" wide and 23.07" tall short by about 1/2" in height but pretty close. Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Was thinking 205/50/R16 tires Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 205/50/R16 tires will be 8" wide so slightly wider and 23" tall slightly shorter. Good choice. Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 205/50/R16 tires will be 8" wide so slightly wider and 23" tall slightly shorter. Good choice. It should work since im not lowering the car :-) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 I think the RBs come in +12 offset also. whuch would put rim in a little more. 16s will look good then lower it to match Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Found a great site for comparing wheel and tire sizes , its called willtheyfit.com :thumbup: Here is the setup im thinking of compared to stock 810 Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Beacuse the original engine was partially dismanteled when i got the car all the lines and connections are a bit of a puzzle ,but i think ive got most of them figured out. Except for these two hose connections on thebase of the air regulator : what are they for ? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 I see they are not part of the regulator. HRH Matt has an L24 Maxima... Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 I see they are not part of the regulator. not a good picture ,but they are integrated in the regulator its all one piece. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Coolant to warm it. Some throttle bodies have this Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Coolant to warm it. Some throttle bodies have this I see ;) . A lot of weird stuff on this car , much of it vacuum operated.. Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Update! Its alive! :thumbup: and that L6 purrs like a kitten B) , well alomst , some fine tuning and adjustments to the timing has to be done ,but all in all its good. My biggest problems now is that the fuel gauge and temp gauge dont work anymore . From what could understand in the FSM these two gauges run of the same earth ,but i can seem to find it. The second issue is that my battery light is on even though the alternator is charging and the battery is fully charged. Next up is a good interior clean and polish. A couple of pics from today: 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 you sure its not overcharging? I would break my solid state volt regs not having the wire tight. but mine is a external volt reg alternator You use the same alternator from the orginal car?. I think your 810 is a internal volt reg alternator. I know you said you had a Laural motor and had a point distributor so might have a external volt reg type alternator on that motor. the fuel and gas gauge go thru a volt reg . its a metal can looking thing in back of the instrument panel. If you didn't take it apart I don't know why they wouldn't work. 1 Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Im Using the original 810 alternator , its chargin between 13-14.3 volts. Maybe ive missed an earth connector somewhere along the line. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Hainz, I have the '78 FSM, and just like the 620 it appears that the volt regulator is part of the temp gauge. Here is a picture of the regulator in a 620 gauge. I'm not expecting the 810 to be exact but this is what to look for. Fold a narrow strip of very fine emery cloth, hold the points open, place the strip between, allow the points to close and draw the strip out.This will polish away any corrosion. But first... do your 4 way emergency lamps work? or do you reverse lamps work? These are on the same fuse. If also not working change the left hand side fuse, second down from the top. 10 amp. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 my 521 I could put up to 6volts and get both meters to work.and move the same amount using a variable power suppley. once I found the ground anfd power leads. I open up the can on my 521 and I notice the bimetal strip but never had the points part. Boundish let us know I love this wagon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 My heater fan does not work anymore either i remember . Has to be an earth somewhere thats not good Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Just make sure the fuses are good and replace them sometimes they break inside. I don't know 810s but make sure all the connection at the starter are there were the fusable link is. Is the T connector on the alternator good? Plugged In? if alternator is chargin I assume its giving 12volts to energize the windings in the alternator. Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Just make sure the fuses are good and replace them sometimes they break inside. None of them looks burnt , but maybe its smart to replace them anyway. Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted March 11, 2016 Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 Check for power at the switch and at the blower connections with switch on. You should be able to just jumper the blower off the battery quickly to see if the blower works....odds are it does. Blower resistors tend to burn out over time. Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 Check for power at the switch and at the blower connections with switch on. You should be able to just jumper the blower off the battery quickly to see if the blower works....odds are it does. Blower resistors tend to burn out over time. I know , but the wierd thing is that before i took out the old engine the gauges and blower all worked. I must have missed something when innstalling the new engine. Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted March 11, 2016 Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 Ahh, ID expect a loose/missed connection in that case. If you don't find one remember the pins in the connectors can come loose internally and create an open circuit. I've had that happen before. Seems to be caused when reconnecting, they push backward into the connector farther. Quote Link to comment
Boundish Posted March 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 Ahh, ID expect a loose/missed connection in that case. If you don't find one remember the pins in the connectors can come loose internally and create an open circuit. I've had that happen before. Seems to be caused when reconnecting, they push backward into the connector farther. Yep guess ill just have to continue looking. Kinda tediuos work tho :p Quote Link to comment
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