Narrow 15" wheels for the front?

[smokehouse_83]

Does anyone know of some 3.5 or 4 inch wide fronts for a 620? Looking for a 15" or bigger to use with some drag tires.

[datzenmike]

Use the stock rims and tire size on the front. They were 6:00 X 14 and 4" wide.  Drag tires go on the back. No one looks at the front tires at a drag strip.

[TENDRIL]

i think he has front drag rubber bands already ??

 

if not you are more likley to find the rims you are looking at at a drag specific site or online somewhere 

[datzenmike]

Like the old A/FX cars that had the 3" fronts. Well on an all out race car there's less weight, air and rolling resistance... but it ain't much.

[GRpufnstuf]

Sounds like he just wants the pro-street look?

 

Should be easy to have your wheels or stock wheels modded to your spec

Or have a wheel company build you some steelies that size

 

OR

 

Get adapters and use BMW i3 fronts! 18x4 or something like.

[orangie]

If you're serious enough about running skinnies up front, Bogart Wheels are super light and reasonable for a custom wheel.

 

http://www.bogartracingwheels.net/

[smokehouse_83]

I am looking for something that isnt 300 or 400 a wheel.  Most of the drag specific fronts are 15".  The rears will be a 26x8.5r15 bias, so I would need some bias fronts. 

[smokehouse_83]

Kinda want something close to a 26inch tire on the front also and there is nothing that is narrow and uses a 14" rim.  

[G-Duax]

So is the idea of a set of 6 to 5-lug adaptores, and a set of normal front drag skinnies out of the question ?

 

Other alternates would be a space saver spare from a modern 6-lug vehicle,

or take a set of aluminum wheels you like to a custom wheel shop to be narrowed,

or find a full set of old 3-piece JDM aftermarket wheels, take all 4 apart, and use just the narrow outer haves to make a pair of 4" fronts.

 

I've personally did the oem space saver spare thing, and the 3-pc wheel thing.

By far, the space saver wheel thing is the cheapest, and if you dig enough, you should be able to find an aluminum version.

The adapter route is a little more expensive, as the adapters run from $100 on up per pair.

I have no idea what the shops that narrow wheels will charge,

And the 'build your own will run the cost of getting a used set of 4 rims out of Japan, plus about $200 to ship by a slow boat ride.

 

Here is a pair of Volk Group C rims I made up for my Cressida. The left over parts made up a pair of 13" wide rims that I then sold.

 

 

 

[smokehouse_83]

I know of a company that narrows alum wheels for 200 apiece  Might be my best option.  What 6lug vehicles have a space saver?  I don't mind staying steel cause the truck is so dang light anyway.  I wonder if there are any chevy or toyota steel wheels that are semi narrow?

[orangie]

I narrowed my front wheels and it was about 200 a wheel.  They did both aluminum and steel, but I wouldn't call that exactly a cheap option either.

[distributorguy]

I went on the look for the same wheels when building my Bonneville race truck.  I ended up having Stockton Wheel custom build some basic steel wheels in 15x5, as they had no blanks to go narrower unless they custom made wheel centers, and prices more than triple at that point.  There's an issue with matching hoops to centers when you get this narrow - especially with the 6 lug pattern.  

[datzenmike]

It's a lot of bother for .... what? Bonneville... yes. Drag racing.... maybe if going fast enough to actually gain something from it. The 620 came with 600 X 14 6 ply tires and everyone will agree it runs better with wider radial tires made today. Going narrower is choosing form over function unless there is some function to gain here.

[G-Duax]

Still think the billet adaptors would be the way yo go.

Seems like there is always someone selling a set of used front drag skinnies, or an OEM aluminum spare.

Here is an example of what's floating around on eBay for $100:

 

Tires are low speed rated, and would need a good high speed drag tire (if you plan on going really fast).

But the good point is that if you ever damage one, a replacement is easy to come by.

[datzenmike]

Is this the new herra flush? the new stance? the new stretched tire?

[G-Duax]

Funny, no one would give it a secont thought if it was on the front of a '32 ford, or rat rod.

(ha ha - rat rod / ratsun, kind of matches)

 

Bottom line, it's in the eye of the beholder, as is color of the vehical, or style of wheel.

 

Personally, I never venture out onto the street with my skinnies on, as braking, and changing direction suffers greatly.

They only go on my car after it gets to the track.

[smokehouse_83]

The truck is gonna be built for drag racing. Skinny fronts are the norm. I found craiger makes a black smooth steelie in 15x5 and 15x10 that look kinda cool and cheap that i can make work I guess. Adapters would make the stance too wide I would think, most are 2 inch. I will not spend the money for a custom wheels, this is a budget build. I was gonna put my vh45 in it but after some looking and measuring I think it will be way too much work, so I'm gonna stick in my HCI 5.0/T5 with a nitrous plate. Probably be around 450-500hp and weigh 2500 with me in it.

[distributorguy]

If you want more detailed info on the Cragars, let me know.  I bought a set before I realized they were too wide and the wrong offset for my truck.  If I recall, too little backspacing for the front to lower it to a decent stance.  They are also pretty wide for a skinny tire - stretched.  You basically need a positive offset wheel.  At $100 each, Stockton Wheel made me a set with the right offset.  

[smokehouse_83]

Well shit there that goes. I'm thinking about back burnering the truck and doing a slow build now anyway. Started looking at the 235/8.5 class rules and I'm thinking a four cylinder is the way to go. Won't have to add a bunch of weight and will need around 1100hp to be competive. Ford 2.3 is looking good, lots of aftermarket and can be build up to 3 liters with billet cranks for a very reasonable price. ARCA heads flow over 300cfm and are 2500 bucks.

[distributorguy]

You may just want to run a narrowed Mustang II front and pick a 5-lug pattern to suit.  Torsion bars suck.  Then you can tuck the wheels in and go.  Cosworth....  Or the Ford Kent setup you can buy from Pegasus Racing and others?  35 lbs boost and you'll be real close!

[smokehouse_83]

Has to be a bolt on front end, like for the Nova's, cant weld anything on.  I was planning on running coilovers anyway or I might look into 240 control arms and struts(build a strut mount off the cage) or maybe use 5 lug toyota hubs.  I think the 2.3 is a very potent and cheap setup to go racing.  They make everything for them kinda like they used to when the L16-L20's where used in racing.  I am thinking a 2.7-3.0 stroker with billet crank and rods and good turbo pistons. Esslinger ARCA head with a big ole cam, CSU blowthrough 750 carb and twin 58-68mm Variable Vane Garrett turbo's(GT37's).  With a C4 to back it up should be a 10,000 dollar setup which ain't bad for the power it should be able to make.

[distributorguy]

I dig it.  You can weld brackets to a Mustang II and bolt it on, right?   :devil:

You and I may be two of the only guys on this forum with that much $$$$$ invested in a 620...???

[smokehouse_83]

I've always wanted to build a mini truck drag truck and the 620 is the best lookin mini truck ever built. They actually have style like old muscle cars. Probably be easier to use a Ranger, but they are ugly as sin.