trjerm Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Hello, I have a 1985 720 KC 4x4 and it's refused to even turn over on 2-3 occassions in the last few days . I installed some fog lights and my fuseable links were mikey moused so I cut the clip out and put some crimp on ends and wired them directly to the positive post. It's been having issues for a couple of months, where it loses voltage if it sits for a 2-3 days and will barely turn over and I'll have to charge it briefly to get it to start, but the latest, it won't even attempt to turn over and it's intermentant , in that ie, it'll start great all day and than won't even try after I stopped for dinner, than started fine after bump starting. I'm stumped !!! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Try pulling the two wire plastic plug out of the back of the alternator. If it keeps it's charge then one of the diodes is going bad. Does you horn work? Does it? Get a test lamp and connect between either battery post and the disconnected cable. It should not light up. If it does, then something is on and drawing power with the key off. If you have a clock pull that fuse. If the light is on start pulling the fuses out one at a time until the lamp does go out. The draw is on the the fuse that was pulled. 2 Quote Link to comment
trjerm Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 The horn works, but it's a little weak and the headlights seem a little dim in comparison to the fog light that I wired to the + battery post. 1 Quote Link to comment
trjerm Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 the latest starting issue seems to be related to the started circuit , possibly a dead spot on the starter., but I don't know, just looking for suggestions. Thanks for the ideas on searching down the voltage drain when sitting 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Make a jumper wire and connect to the positive post. Touch the small wire terminal on the starter solenoid. (expect sparks and the loud starting sounds, have in neutral) If it cranks over every time then the start signal from the ignition is week. You need a sot start relay made up. 1 Quote Link to comment
trjerm Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 what is a" sot start relay" that I need to get made up 1 Quote Link to comment
Dolomite Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Typo, D Mike meant hot start relay, it gives full B+ power to the starter. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Could possibly be your ignition switch too. Do you keep a lot of keys on your ring? 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 lol (last post, didn't check it) You only need the HOT start relay if the start signal from the key is weak. My 710 was this way took 2-3 tries before the starter wound click in. The signal was about 7 volts instead of near 12. Old and a long run of wired contributed to a big voltage drop. You can use the weak signal to energize a relay that supplies a solid 12 volts from the battery directly to the starter solenoid. Quote Link to comment
trjerm Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 I pulled the 2 wire plug out of the alternator and started it and my volt meter read 12.6 volts and dropped to 12.2 v when I turned on the headlights. I then reconnected the 2 wire plug and the volts were 12.9 v right after starting it, then rose to 14.0 v after running for a min or so. When I turned on the headlights the volts dropped to 13.7v and 13.5v when headlights and fog lights were on. On testing the voltage drain, did you mean that I should disconnect the neg terminal and connect a test light between the terminal and the disconnected wire? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Try pulling the two wire plastic plug out of the back of the alternator. If it keeps it's charge then one of the diodes is going bad.* Does you horn work? Does it? Get a test lamp and connect between either battery post and the disconnected cable**. It should not light up. If it does, then something is on and drawing power with the key off. If you have a clock pull that fuse. If the light is on start pulling the fuses out one at a time until the lamp does go out. The draw is on the the fuse that was pulled. * I meant to pull the plug for over night and see if the battery keeps it's charge. Some alternators, when they go bad, can drain the battery. ** Between either neg or pos post, yes Quote Link to comment
trjerm Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 ok I'll pull the 2 wire plug overnight and check battery voltage before and after, thanks Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 26, 2015 Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 Better test is starting it in the morning. If the battery is dead then it isn't the alternator. Then, time to get out the test lamp and pull fuses. Quote Link to comment
trjerm Posted May 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 I went ahead and pulled the ignition switch and it was a little loose, so I tightened up the crimps w/ a punch and it tightened it up nicely. I 'm hoping this takes care of the intermitant starting issue. Still have to figure out what's drawing my battery down when it sit's for 2-3 days. Quote Link to comment
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