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85 nissan 720 with Z24


Minesmith67

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The 32/26 is a 32mm primary by 36mm secondary carb. It's known as a progressive carb with the secondary coming in as the primary opens above the 3/4? point. The The smaller primary gives good economy with the larger secondary for performance like passing on the highway. A good size for all 4 cylinder engines.

 

The 38/38 is much larger and designed for larger displacement engines like 6s and small V8s. Both barrels open together so it drives best when 'stepped into' as the engine revs up. Slightly too large for most 4 cylinders and when gas economy isn't important.

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Read carefully. The 32/36 is the progressive carb.

 

Never over cam or over carb your engine. Better to have a smaller one and wish you had larger than to have the larger and wish it were the smaller one.

 

 

 

The 38/38 has 2 38mm barrels and IIRC is a synchronous carb.

The 32/36 has one 32mm barrel and one 36mm barrel, and is a progressive carb.

Synchronous=both barrels open at the same time
Progressive=one barrel opens before the other.

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I just got a 85 Nissan 720 4x4 it has the Z24 motor. Dies anyone have a vacuum diagram for it from a Chilton. And I wanna put a different carb on it what are your recommendations.

HI mate...

yeh got some links you might like... i got a 32/36 weber on mine and have done all sorts to it... ripped out the viscous fan and put in twin thermos , extractors, dual battery MSD leads haven't dynoed it yet... but i reckon i got at least 20 more HP out it just with these mods...  Follow the links at Dyno Mule to see where i am going with it..

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4ldmc5nvvr30qvp/2015-05-07%2011.29.59.jpg?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cvrijpqfr3jz3id/2015-05-07%2011.27.10.jpg?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yvjegeythh3n48h/2015-05-07%2011.27.47.jpg?dl=0

 

check out this ....  i am gonna do this next..

 

http://www.turbodatsun.com/Z24%20Dyno%20Mule.htm

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Yeh the guys name is Ben he lives over east some place.... he's working on getting an inter-cooler working with it as well once he finalises everything (The turbo kit is complete) i'm gonna get one ... i have an engine in my shed which i am gonna build for trubo.. wiseco rods... stroked crank... scoop out some piston-top meat to lower compression.... Blow the turbo thru the 32/36 etc.. it's gonna fly ... however--- i'm not really interested in speed i just want more power in the bush and for pulling out stumps LOL... oh yeh look at this...

 

https://www.calmini.com/detail.php?b=1&m=4&t=3&p=916&n=

 

I went to look at a house a few months back and had to get into 1st low 4wheel drive to get up the dam drive-way... shit it was steep... the little z24 didn't like it much

so i reckon with the turbo and the reduction gears it will climb trees ... LOL

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Some pics of additions and mods.

1. The Dash Now

2.  Toyota Celica seats Fitted ... i had to build raise platforms for them to bring them up 3"

3. In Cab Switch Block - i had to use my Dremel to cut out the plastic so the backs of the switches could recess into the dash

4. PSR Programmable Switching Relay for battery control it swings up for ease of access and programming

5. PSR in up position

6. Anderson Plugs for power outllet on all 4 corners

7. note the silver tube between the cowling and the black bracket its to mount the cowling OFF the radiator so it won't wear a hole in the radiator

the catch-can is mounted on a checker -plate bracket which is rivetted to the cowling if you do this watch out that you use rivets of the right size else you

will crack the plastic

8. Auxiliary Fuel pump mounted in the engine bay in series with the original supply this is needed to supply the weber at high revs

9. another shot of the PSR and another

10 Bullbar mounted and integrated with the bumper bracket

11. After-market Idler arm Brace

12. Re-built Cv Shafts

13. Chasis MOunted Winch

14. The resulting mounted winch

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Parts to get for the Turbo Engine Mod

 

I'd be happy to answer any questions about  the mods above ..

 

a bit of a tip might be to think carefully about what you are going to add or change then plan it as carefully as you can and make sure you have all the parts on hand

else you might create other problems that might not have been necessary had time been taken to think it though. During my own work i had to have my Ute running the next day as i use it for work everyday.

 

The Old Girl

 

Work Horse

 

She works her ass off

 

Her ass fell off

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Oh yeh when you are fitting electrical stuff make sure you put fuses in every circuit as close to the battery as you can so that the fuse will blow before  your wiring is damaged or worse still a fire breaks out. What i did was put in an extra fuse panel for the electrical stuff under the bonnet ... power  that up after then get all your power of that then you have a fuse for every circuit. also make sure you have 100amp fuses between your aux battery and your battery controlled as well as between your battery controller and your main battery.

 

With thermo Fans make sure you have each fan on its own relayed and fused circuit e.g run a given fan from a relay that has a fuse in line prior to the relay also watch that  you plugs to the fan are good mine melted ... i did all my own wiring but had an auto-electrician put in a diode so the power from the fans would not feedback thru the various switched circuits ...

 

e.g you need a circuit for the thermo switch, the manual switch, and the aircon switch to run all independent of each other because you need the fans for aircon, for temp control in isolation from aircon (when aircon is off) and for manual when both temp and aircon is off this is useful for 4x4ing also good if the thermo switch or relay fails as mine did on a few occasions.. remember you doing away with the mechanical cooling device.

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So I just learned I need to replace the carb this sucks was hoping to hear her start up before I took her home. Damn

Is it in too rough of shape or is it not firing?

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