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521-Brakes lock up when hot. ???


flatcat19

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Great color! the adjustment on the rod is REAL. and touchy. i had to cut the rod, and then adjust it longer and shorter multiple times until i got it correct. 

 

just tonight i ended up with other problems, but no thread jacking for me. 

 

what is the plans for this truck?

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what is the plans for this truck?

 

To get a thread for it going tomorrow. 

 

This is the second time I have owned this truck. My first Datsun ever. 

 

 

Short, immediate to do list...radiator cap/overflow bottle; turn signal switch; rear view mirror; shocks. 

 

Also going to look into LED lights for the cluster. 

 

IR alt and EI dizzy soon to follow. 

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If you are not adding electrical accessories, the stock 35 amp alternator and external regulator will work fine.  But like brake cylinders, STOCK NISSAN parts.  Aftermarket, or poorly rebuilt parts, are not as good.

 

Dash Light lamps:

DashLampLED_zps2930ec41.jpg

Looks like this after replacing the four meter illumination lamps.

LEDDashLamps_zps9cfc72d8.jpg

 

This will help with stock headlights. 

Add an in line fuse holder, tapping into the fusebox where the wire from the battery attaches to the fuse box.

NewRelayB.jpg

Run a 12 gauge wire to the stock headlight relay connection.  Make it at least long enough to reach the stock headlight relay.  But connect the new wire to pin 30 of a new additional relay. 

Disconnect the red with a yellow stripe wire from the stock relay, plug it on pin 86 of the new relay.  Ground pin 85 of the new relay.  Make a short jumper 12 gauge wire.  Go from pin 87 of the new relay, to the empty pin on the stock relay, the pin you pulled the red with yellow stripe wire from.

This picture does not show a lot, but it may help.

NewHeadlightrelay.jpg

 

This is what the added relay does.  It takes headlight current out of the stock fuse box.  Most stock 521 fuse boxes have some damage from being 45 years old, and getting hot at the headlight fuse.  The head light current stock goes through the fusebox, into the cab, through a connector into the cab wiring harness, to another connector, the light switch, a connector again, back to the connector by the glove box, and back into the engine room harness, and finally to the headlight relay.  The added relay eliminates all the extra wiring, and its voltage drop, and runs battery current a lot more directly to the stock headlight relay.

As a bonus, some 521 trucks only have one fuse for both the headlights, and all the other lights.  If this fuse is blown, by a taillight, or trailer light connection, you lose headlights.

If you do the added relay like I described, in an emergency, you can disconnect the power wire from the added relay (pin 30), and plug it into the stock relay where the red with a yellow stripe wire was.  This will turn on the headlights, bypassing the truck non headlight wiring.

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