Boosted Old Rice

[fiveNdime]

So here is the story.  I had my truck Old Rice that I had for years and then it was sold, then bought, then sold, then sold again and now my dad has it.  Yeah, its been around.  Ive had my 510 just sitting collecting dust for years.  I swapped in a KA24de and honestly hated driving it with a pasion.  The old motor in it was a monster 2.2L that was way more fun to drive but was swapped into my 521 (Old Rice) which some of the long time Ratsun guys will know.  Now its time to start a new project and I will dub it Boosted Old Rice.  So what we have21 (Old Rice) is a 91 KA24de in it.  I recently dropped it off at ETS (Extreme Turbo Systems) to have a custom turbo kit made for it.  Were going to shoot for 300whp which should be plenty easy to hit.  Once I get all the little stuff done it will go back to either ETS or English Racing for some tuning.  Its been a long time coming for this build.  Im not going to be making it pretty, just functional for the enitial part.  Then someday it will be stripped clean to the body and all redone.  That costs to much scratch so not gonna happen for a while.  Ive been fighting some simple issues like throttle cable and brake master cylinder clearance issues.  I will post up details of the car, turbo setup and build later.  I just wanted to get this started for not only you guys to check out but for me to get off my rear and get motivated.  I would like to make a couple datsun meets this year to hang with people again. 

 

Pulled it out of the shop for the first time in 3 years.

 

 

Here it was in good company just before it got the turbo kit at ETS

 

 

On the rack so I snapped a shot.

 

Turbo stuff

 

 

 

 

[flatcat19]

If Old Rice(the truck) goes up for sale again at anytime, I'm ready to take it back. 

[bonvo]

Please use a different intercooler behind the body panels i never understood why people put them outside it looks so horrible

[fiveNdime]

Got some parts to keep the project moving along. AEM series 2 EMS. -10 line and fittings for the oil return line. -4 PTFE tube and fittings for the oil feed line. Automeeter boost and oil pressure gauges along with an aluminum gauge panel. My AEM wide band gauge is still in transit.

 

[fiveNdime]

Please use a different intercooler behind the body panels i never understood why people put them outside it looks so horrible

 

 

Not going to happen.  Its a custom made unit from ETS just to fit this car, and I like it there.  I may anodize it black in the future to make it blend in a bit, but I like it right there.

[fiveNdime]

Got some time yesterday to work on the car.  I pulled off the oil filter housing.  I pulled the allen plug and tapped out the BPST threads with standard 1/8" NPT so I could put a 90* fitting on it for my oil feed line to the turbo.  After getting the fitting in the right spot I got the -4 AN fitting and hose for it made.  That -4 PTFE hose is a bit more trickier to work with then I had thought.  Rubber hose ends are much easier.

 

 

 

 

I then needed a bung for the pan to install my oil return line.  Since this motor is planned to be rebuilt I went ahead and drilled it on the car.  Using a ton of grease while cleaning it over and over again Im fairly certain not a speck of metal was left in the pan.  I am going to toss a computer hard drive magnet on the bottom of the pan for kicks.

 

 

 

 

I used a tube from an EVO 8 to drop the oil down to where I could easily thread the -10 hose end on.  I had planned on using a tig to put the bung on but with limited space I used the mig instead.  After I mocked it up I pulled the line, painted the sanded spot for the bung and then put it all back in place for good.

 

 

Next it was time for me to weld in a bung for the wideband gauge.  After reading it needs to sit at least 36" downstream from the turbo.  I ended up about 46" back due to the transmission crossmember being in the way.  I had ETS design the exhaust so that it could be unbolted.  So at the bottom of the down pipe is a v-band clamp and at the back there is a T-band clamp for the slip fit.  This way all 3 parts of the 3" exhaust can be removed since it runs through the cross member.  It was nice to be able to pull it and weld it on the bench.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

bad ass 510 but those wheels need to go

[fiveNdime]

bad ass 510 but those wheels need to go

I am taking those off.  One step at a time.  Doesnt seem to be too many options for these things still.  I put those ones on years ago.

[fiveNdime]

Been super busy on the car.  Did all the wiring, splicing, and re-routing of everything needed.  Still have the harness pretty much blown apart but for the time being its giong to stay that way.  Once everything is going well and tuned I will pull it apart and get it all put away nicely.  I still need to wire in 1 more relay.  have 2 things attached to 1 right now and thats not propper so I have to do that yet. 

 

 

 

I had to take the intake off so I could drill and tap a port for the MAP sensor and BOV vacuum hoses.  This is the only thing Im not sure on if I did totaly right.  Nothing is said that the MAP sensor needs a dedicated line.  As you can see I have the MAP isolated as best I can with some rubber.  Trying to avoid to much vibration from the engine.

[fiveNdime]

Hit the post button by accident.  I will proceed.

 

Got some more parts for the build!  AEM UEGO Wideband Gauge, AEM MAP, AIT and Boost Solenoid, -4an fittings for brake line, Exhaust heat wrap, Lavamat spark plug boot which you will see in a later photo.  Last but not least is the Deatsch Werks 810cc injectors

 

Spent some time under the car putting the center section of exhaust back on.  Had to drill and weld the bung on for the UEGO wideband and rout the wiring.  Also pulled the downpipe off to wrap with heat wrapping.

 

Next thing on the list was to install gauges.  Didnt have much of a choice on where to put them for now so I opted to go the easy rout and just mount them under the ash tray.

 

I have been trying to figure this throttle cable issue out for some time.  Right now I have this setup.  Some random motorcycle clutch cable and a Lokar cable miss match unit I built.  I drilled out a rivit in the throttle setup on the intake and then installed the end to it.  On the inside there is a ball and socket style fitting.  Just long enought at about 40"  I made a plate for the cable to bolt to, which uses the 2 factory bolt holes from the original linkage.  Put the spark plug boot on it to keep it from getting to hot from exhaust.

 

I ran my wiring all the way around to the drivers side and installed my boost solenoid there.  Ran it in the configuration for the use of both top and bottom ports on my waste gate.  Wires are spliced into the factory harness as are the rest of the sensors.  AIT sensor was too easy to waste time showing, Just needed a bung on the intake right before TB and a couple wires ran to it.

[JoeCool]

DAMN! That is one mean little car!

[fiveNdime]

Finished up all the wiring bits and small stuff.  So I loaded the software for the AEM Tunning on my computer.  Ubuntu did not like it and neither did my outdated windows version.  So off to the store to buy a new laptop.  No go with that one either, it wouldnt connect the ECU to the laptop.  More research leaded to the fact that the new 8.1 operating system on the Dell was hit or miss with the AEM software.  I cant win for loosing.  So I decided to do the "Connection Dance".  That meant that do whatever sequance you could find to get the two to link together.  Mine happeded to be follow the pattern but as soon as it says Connection Lost, simply unplug the cable and plug it back in and it connects.  How stupid is that but it worked so onto the next problem.  Ive been fighting a Stat Sync'd issue which keeps it from starting up.  everything I checked was checking out right.  I thought I had done everything correct and it turns out I had.  The ECU plug was still not tight enough.  After some research I had found this to be an common issue.  Cranked down on the 10mm bolt a little more and bang fired right up.  But, onto the next problem.  Wouldnt run, but would fire up for a sec.  So I went into the computer and set up the injectors to run the newer 810cc high imp injectors.  It was on the stock ones.  Too much fuel, so I researched some more and found that it runs pretty fat on the initial tune start tune.  I pulled the injectors back out and have yet to try and re-start it.  Im currently working on the brakes.

 

I have a brake booster and intended on keeping it.  One big reason is that my wife loves to drive the car too, and I wanted to keep the softer pedal feel.  That said I had clearance issues.  The reservoir was touching the exhaust housing of the turbo so I pulled both off and welded caps on the top.  From there I will weld on the -4an bungs.

 

Then I needed a reservoir for my brake fluid.  Bought a cap with an aluminum bung, scrap tube and a tab welded on.  Aftermarket units were way to overpriced so opted to make my own.  It has 2 -4an fittings screwed into the bottom with Quicksteel on the threads to lock them in place.  I also purposely tapped the threads with .25 Degree different thread pitch to make them tighter.  Shouldnt go anywhere.

[fiveNdime]

I last left off on the brakes.  I have since finished them and installed it into the car.  I still need to bleed the system.  This is how the sytem looks out of the car.  I didnt take a picture of it in.

 

After installing the brakes I went back to getting the car to start.  Since I had connection the next step was to make sure everything was where it should be.  I found that my idle was quite a ways off.  Ended up that I forgot to hook up the IACV sytem.  I am opting not to use it for now so I just cracked open the TB to get it to idle.  After that I ran into yet another problem.  I was getting a horrible squealing squeak noise coming from the bell housing area.  I wasnt sure if it was engine, clutch or transmission related.  So I tossed it on the lift and pulled the transmission.  Hooked the exhaust back on and fired the engine up.  Same noise, so that ruled out the transmission.  Pulled the oil pan and everything looked good on that end.  So I went to the web to search some more.  I found a couple posts on guys haveing issues with to much negative crank case pressure.  So I started the motor and pulled the main hose off the valve cover.  That stopped the noise.  Said noise was so much air being pulled into the motor from the intake that it was pulling air past the rear main seal causing that horrible noise.  Now all I have to do is put a braether on the valve cover and that should cover it.  I pulled the transmission to also put a clutch in anyway.  It has a stock replacement Exedy clutch in it now but I am switching to a ACT Extreme 6 puk solid.  Too bad there 3 weeks out right now.

 

I also found a good way to setup my -4an brake lines.  I ended up using my dremel with a cut off blade.  Being super carefull not to damage the Teflon lining, you can cut the braded steel away. It will also naturaly leave a flared out end so the ferrel can slip under.  Worked well on them, and so far no leaks.

[fiveNdime]

I put the transmission back in and topped off the fluid so I could start it and move it out of the garage.  Gave it a wash and dry to make it somewhat presentable.  Then I was finally able to take it for a run up my dead end road and back.  Its only a 1/2 mile out and back so not far.  Ran well but was smoking like crazy.  I was on the lean side at about 14.5 cruising in second gear which may of had something to do with it.  That and the fact that its not timed or tuned, but close.  Hit boost in 1st gear and boy what a difference that was.  I can only imagine what this thing is going to be like built with good internals.  If we cant get it to stop smoking then Im just going to tear it down and do a build on the engine.  I have to get it done though before the Canby show which is what I have been pushing for.  Here is a shot I took with turbo kit done and ready to tune!

 

[DISLEXICDIME]

Did guy make any of the parts? As far as smoking does the turbo need a restricor?

[fiveNdime]

I have a restrictor on the feed line at the turbo.  I was thinking maybe turbo seals since nothing has changed on the motor.  I was wrong though.  I pulled the downpipe off and no oil, then I pulled the mani off and there it was with its ugly stare.  Oil in the exhaust ports.  Not sure why this has happeded but I think im going to contribute it to the negative crank case pressure issue since that is the only thing that was an issue.  Never smoked before the turbo.  No overboost since it was smoking before that.  Didnt wash the cylinders out with too much fuel since I was running on the leaner side.  I dont really care at this moment.  Motor is out and now Im going to build it to handle boost.  Im trying to get this thing done for Canby but now this is a big blow.

 

[fiveNdime]

Oh,  Guy didnt make any parts.  This was when Guy wasnt working there.  I think It was Harvy and Rich my brother that did all the work.

[DISLEXICDIME]

Did you use a turbo pcv

[fiveNdime]

I did not, but now I am probably going to run a catch can for my setup.  I stripped the block clean.  The block has a few odd markings on the inner cylinder walls with a slight ridge.  It looks like ring marks from sitting for so long so its going to get a .20 over bore at the machine shop.  My lifter lash caps have some pitting so they are going to get flipped upsided down and reused.  The head is going to get new valve seals, decking and a once over at the shop as well.  Now that I know the bore issue I will order the pistons.  All the old pistons looked as perfect as the day they were put in a few years ago so I'm thinking about another 2.2 build with KA24 pistons and a SSS head to put in some future datsun, basically the one I have in my old 521.  Blows that I have to start back at the beginning but this way I wont have to do it later. 

[fiveNdime]

Been busy cleaning parts in the blast cabinet and painting in prep for the motor to come back from the machine shop.

My parts pile is growing since I had to take everything back apart/

 

Took some of the aluminum parts and gave them a quick buffing job to clean them up.

 

Cleaned up rather nicely for 40 minutes on the buffing wheels.

 

Me and the blast cabinet have been spending some quality time together.  So much so the ballast went out in the cabinet light so I had to swap a new one in.  Then the regulator on my compressor died, so I tossed a new one on that.  All ready to go for another many years.  Here are just a couple shots,  No point in showing everything blasted.

 

Getting ready to blast these suckers clean.

 

And just so I dont forget where they go.

 

Im also trying to clean up the intake a bit.  Removing parts and pieces I dont need.  Before Pic, I dont have the after yet.

 

As soon as I get the block back from the machine shop I will be on the fast track to getting this project on the road.

[fiveNdime]

Had a little down time while the engine block and head were in the machine shop.  Started with some more time blasting parts in the blast cabinet.  Primed and painted with a black wrinkle finish. Got the block back late Thursday afternoon.  In time to get it painted before I started the build this weekend.

 

 

Took the ugly starter and cleaned it up a bunch.  Blasted the outer body and contacts, then sprayed with high temp semi gloss.  Sorry for the fuzzy photo.

 

 

Got some more parts.  ARP main studs, ARP head studs, Eagle H-Beam rods, CP pistons, and Commetic head gasket, and ARP rod cap bolts.  Head was decked and polished.  Block was decked and honed.

 

 

Then I proceeded with the engine build.  Started by cleaning the threads with a tap, and compressed air to make sure they were super clean.  Brake cleaned all the mating surfaces and cylinder bores to remove all honing particles as best as possible.  I also cleaned all ARP parts and used correct ARP assembly lube.

 

 

Then I dry fitted the main cradle and ARP studs to make sure there was no binding.  All looked and felt good so I clamped it all together dry with some Plastigauge to see what my clearances were.  .002" clearances on all 5 mains is pretty tight but in the margin.

 

 

I then put assembly lube on the main caps and crank surfaces.  Made sure the ARP studs were hand tight and put it all together.  I went with 4 torque sequences instead of 3, and finished with 60 ft. lbs.

 

Next was to check the ring gaps.  This is where I am parked at the moment.  So I took the pistons and rods to the machine shop to have them hung and weighed so all 4 were the same balance.  The bore was then matched to the spec. sheet that came with my pistons.  After checking ring gap I noticed that they are quite a few thousandths off.  I will have to wait and call on Monday to find out if they are either the wrong rings or if the bore was bored out to far.  I don't have the option to check the bore since I don't have that tool.  After that I went ahead and dry fitted a piston.  Checked the bearing clearance and that was in range as well, its kind of hard to see but you can see the lines for width.

[fiveNdime]

So I've been crunching numbers and It appears I missed on particular measurement.  That said I figured out the ring gaps.  Here is the way I'm doing it.  CP Carrillo Pistons sent a spec sheet out for the specific pistons I bought.  Bore Diameter was specified to be set at 3.524".  Ring Gap should be BORE x .005".  So 3.524 x .005" comes out to 0.01762" for the top ring only.  Feeler gauge reads .017 on the nose but its snug.  For the second ring the gap size is BORE x .005" +.004 to .008" larger then the top ring.  So 3.524" x 0.005" = 0.01762" + .004 comes out to 0.02162".  If you add to the .008" it comes out to .02562.  My second ring measures out at a snug .024" so its within the specs.

 

For some reason the shop laptop wouldn't let me paste the pic link.  Here it is.

 

[fiveNdime]

Crunch time is here for me.  Trying to get this thing going before the show and I'm running out of time.  I have been busy after work though getting it put back together.

 

 

Ran a tap through all the main stud holes and installed the ARP studs.  Then I dropped on the Cometic head gasket.

 

 

When I took the head to the machine shop they made sure to polish the head surface instead of just leaving the cross hatch.  Its a much better mating surface for the head gasket.

 

 

I dry fitted the head and made sure it slid on nicely with the new head studs.  All was free and clear of any binding so I lubed up the bolts, washers and nuts with supplied fastener lube and dropped the head on.  Installed the head and then the cams in correct orientation.

 

 

Took the engine off the stand and did the rear main seal.

 

 

While I was doing the timing and tensioners I went to torque down the chain tensioners to proper torque specs and I ended up pulling the threads on one of the upper aluminum holes.  I had to wait for the night and head to town after work the next day for the m6x100 thread repair kit.  I went to a local place called Parkrose Hardware.  That place is a freaking candy store for hardware.  I bought a pretty nice little kit for 47 bucks.  Tapped the hole and installed the helicoil.  Then the bottom hole did the same thing.  So, I installed another one on the bottom and torqued it to factory specs.

 

 

Tossed on all the rest of the normal boring parts.  This is how it sits as of tonight.  Ready to be dropped in.  My Clutch is still on back order so the stock one will have to hold for now.  If you notice thats an L-series alternator that I swapped pulleys on to get serpentine ones.

[fiveNdime]

Hey guys,  Question here.  I worked on this car all day yesterday and could not for the life of me get it running.  Timing was set right internally.  I set the engine at TDC on compression stroke, lined up the marks on the distributor.  All goes in and lines up as should.  I am getting some trying but the car wont start.  If it does it runs like shit and dies quickly.  I wonder if the plugs are fowled?  I wonder if I have a bad MAP sensor even though it was working before I rebuilt the engine.  I did have the car running earlier in the day.  I was running great but it was idling stupid high around 2k.  Timing had to be moved 1 tooth to hit 10 BTDC.  I realize 20 is factory but this is turbo so I need to set the timing at 10.  I am at a loss as to why it ran before and not now.  I'm ready to hand it off to a shop since I have no clue.  I'm going to try and figure it out today but I literally spent all day yesterday screwing with it until about 10pm.  Neighbors probably didn’t like the backfires.  Any ideas are appreciate!  On the plus side the engine is in.  Just got to get this thing running so I can tune it to make it to Canby!

[fiveNdime]

Took the valve cover off.  Checked everything and its all exactly where it should be.  I try to fire it up and no go.  So I have the wife sit in the car and turn it over while I check where timing is with my timing light.  I am not even close.  So I end up moving the distributor till it sits in the timing range.  Fires up there, high idle again.  I havent set it to TDC and checked where the rotor sits now in correspondence to the #1 socket on the cap.  I will have to do that later.  Also has a terrible stumble in the throttle, really bad.