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z32 trans swap for sr20det 510


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It's not hard to pop the s13 5 speed. With the Hp, LSD and traction goals I want it will be even easier. I like to over build my cars so I can drive them hard and not worry about breaking stuff. From my previous builds I know I am hard on transmissions. I had a 73 hilux with a build 22R and a w58 with a supra LSD in the diff. Truck was fun as hell to drive, the original 5 speed from the 22R didn't last me too long. 

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First to go bang was the open R160. Upgraded to STi CLSD R180. Then some U joints went.  After I replaced those, the halfshaft itself went pop.  Wheelhop is a bitch.  If I ever manage to upgrade to CV's I expect the next fuse will be the outer stubs.  Only about 240tq... 

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Yeah, I'm working on getting my hands on an STI diff, 930 CV's, the conversion stubs for the STI diff and adapters for outter stubs.  Is there 930 outter stubs that work in the rear? 


I'm running 11psi on the stock t25 and am already getting scary noises from a u-joint somewhere... high pitched clink when coasting then lightly applying the gass.

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My wheel hop issue is caused by the suspension geometry of the lowered car and resultant negative anti-squat.  There is no fix other than to raise the ride height or channel the body.  I have simply sworn off drag racing ;)


I agree the 71C's are tough as.

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I have coil overs and slotted rear crossmember. When the tires break loose its nice and smooth. Even with an open diff they both break loose at times and the rear gets squirrelly.  I don't want to have to swap the trans, I was hoping the car was light enough with less traction then the s13/s14 that it shouldn't be a problem. 


Is the 71C the trans that comes in the s13? I have the trans that is normally in the s13/sr20. 


edit: google machine taught me something!



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My 510 has a polyurethane mounted Penultimate crossmember with raised and adjustable control arm mounts.  This does help but cannot eliminate or reverse the negative anti squat condition.  If you draw an imaginary line from the hub to the trailing arm pivot it goes downward.  That downward angle is going to cause wheel hop when you try to put power down through sticky tires.






I should have slipped the clutch a bit more... :rofl:



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900ish+ lb springs in the stock location.  225 wide 200 tread wear BFG Rival.  Grip was significantly increased by launching on a NHRA prepped drag strip.  I remember my shoes sticking to the ground. 


Breaking parts on the street should be a lot tougher ;)

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Well there's the problem. If anything is harder than drag racing it's drag racing with an IRS. If primarily drag racing, a silid axle is better. If handling for track, then IRS although by the time you get the springs and shocks and a sway bar stiff enough you might as well have a solid axle.

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