DatSun620PU Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Hey guys, so I cranked the torsion down on the front and it's about 2.5in lower but it rides pretty stuff. Need new shocks maybe? Also, going to put 2 or 3in blocks on the back but from the information I've read I'm not sure if I need drop shocks or not. Elaborate? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 shocks just keep the spring from ocillating. theres a rubber stopper on frame maybe your riding on this? remove that. If 2.5 up front then due 2inch in back for the rake look. But I went 3inch Belltech 2deg blocks and crank far as I could in front before I ran out of threads get a electrnic ignition conversion 1st new anti freeze oil change 1 Quote Link to comment
DatSun620PU Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Thanks! shocks just keep the spring from ocillating.theres a rubber stopper on frame maybe your riding on this? remove that.If 2.5 up front then due 2inch in back for the rake look.But I went 3inch Belltech 2deg blocks and crank far as I could in front before I ran out of threadsget a electrnic ignition conversion 1stnew anti freezeoil change So I don't need to replace back springs to drop? I have a 38 dges on the way then I'm buying new dizzy, wires, plugs and EI ignition. The bucket seats and drop Quote Link to comment
kaoss Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Always buy the best shocks you can afford. Quote Link to comment
JoeCool Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 3" blocks in the rear should be good. as for the front riding rough, late 70's Ford Pinto shocks are the way to go in the front. They are shorter, have more travel, and a built in bump stop. I ordered mine for a 1978 Pinto. KYB Excel. You just have to cut the ends off like this so it fits the mount. Here is a write up someone else did on here: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/46538-how-to-replace-datsun-620-front-shocks-fitting-pinto-shocks/ Quote Link to comment
DatSun620PU Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 3" blocks in the rear should be good. as for the front riding rough, late 70's Ford Pinto shocks are the way to go in the front. They are shorter, have more travel, and a built in bump stop. I ordered mine for a 1978 Pinto. KYB Excel. You just have to cut the ends off like this so it fits the mount. Here is a write up someone else did on here: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/46538-how-to-replace-datsun-620-front-shocks-fitting-pinto-shocks/ Awesome thanks!! Quote Link to comment
DatSun620PU Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 3" blocks in the rear should be good. as for the front riding rough, late 70's Ford Pinto shocks are the way to go in the front. They are shorter, have more travel, and a built in bump stop. I ordered mine for a 1978 Pinto. KYB Excel. You just have to cut the ends off like this so it fits the mount. Here is a write up someone else did on here: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/46538-how-to-replace-datsun-620-front-shocks-fitting-pinto-shocks/ So doing my research because I wanna go lower. When reindexing are new shocks required? Or can I just remove my bump stops? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 I've read I'm not sure if I need drop shocks or not. Elaborate? Using blocks in the back have no effect on the shock length or travel. As for the fronts I believe the suspension will bottom out before the shock does. You could cut the bump stop down but removing them and continuing to lower you will find yourself bottomed with absolutely no suspension travel. You will be essentially rolling on two air filled beach balls, very bouncy. Any change in ride height above or below stock will add toe in to the steering. 1 Quote Link to comment
DatSun620PU Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Using blocks in the back have no effect on the shock length or travel. As for the fronts I believe the suspension will bottom out before the shock does. You could cut the bump stop down but removing them and continuing to lower you will find yourself bottomed with absolutely no suspension travel. You will be essentially rolling on two air filled beach balls, very bouncy. Any change in ride height above or below stock will add toe in to the steering. Okay thanks mike. Gettin my 38 dges today :D Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 6, 2014 Report Share Posted June 6, 2014 Actually I have to disagree.... I never put much thought to it & honestly it never dawned on me until my son & I put air shocks on his truck & the shocks were at their "high limit" with zero air... I was baffled until I realized..... Ideally, it would make complete sense to use a shock for a lifted 4X4 in the rear. Reason being, when you use lowering blocks in the rear, you are moving the lower shock mount away from the upper mount thus putting the shock, potentially, outside the ideal operating range, depending on the size of the block of course (we are on 3" blocks) by using "lifted truck" shocks in the rear it would put you back into the proper operating range of the shock. just food for thought. Using blocks in the back have no effect on the shock length or travel. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 6, 2014 Report Share Posted June 6, 2014 When you install the lift block the spring plate with the shock mount stays in the same location. If you used 720 4x4 springs the plate would move closer to the shock cross member. Not sure how it would do the opposite, maybe the air shocks were not the same travel as the factory shocks? :S Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 6, 2014 Report Share Posted June 6, 2014 hahaha I really had to think about what you just said... Imma tard. I NEVER thought to measure the shock.... the spring/plate is static & the axle just moves up. 1 Quote Link to comment
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