Lowering

[DatSun620PU]

Hey guys,

 

 

so I cranked the torsion down on the front and it's about 2.5in lower but it rides

pretty stuff. Need new shocks maybe? 

Also, going to put 2 or 3in blocks on the back but from the information I've read I'm not sure if I need drop shocks or not. Elaborate?

[banzai510(hainz)]

shocks just keep the spring from ocillating.

 

theres a rubber stopper on frame maybe your riding on this? remove that.

 

If 2.5 up front then due 2inch in back for the rake look.

 

But I went 3inch Belltech 2deg blocks and crank far as I could in front before I ran out of threads

 

 

get a electrnic ignition conversion 1st

new anti freeze

oil change

[DatSun620PU]

Thanks! 

 

shocks just keep the spring from ocillating.

theres a rubber stopper on frame maybe your riding on this? remove that.

If 2.5 up front then due 2inch in back for the rake look.

But I went 3inch Belltech 2deg blocks and crank far as I could in front before I ran out of threads


get a electrnic ignition conversion 1st
new anti freeze
oil change

So I don't need to replace back springs to drop? I have a 38 dges on the way then I'm buying new dizzy, wires, plugs and EI ignition. The bucket seats and drop

[kaoss]

Always buy the best shocks you can afford.

[JoeCool]

3" blocks in the rear should be good. as for the front riding rough, late 70's Ford Pinto shocks are the way to go in the front. They are shorter, have more travel, and a built in bump stop. I ordered mine for a 1978 Pinto. KYB Excel.

 

You just have to cut the ends off like this so it fits the mount.

 

Here is a write up someone else did on here:  http://community.ratsun.net/topic/46538-how-to-replace-datsun-620-front-shocks-fitting-pinto-shocks/

[DatSun620PU]

3" blocks in the rear should be good. as for the front riding rough, late 70's Ford Pinto shocks are the way to go in the front. They are shorter, have more travel, and a built in bump stop. I ordered mine for a 1978 Pinto. KYB Excel.

 

You just have to cut the ends off like this so it fits the mount.

 

Here is a write up someone else did on here:  http://community.ratsun.net/topic/46538-how-to-replace-datsun-620-front-shocks-fitting-pinto-shocks/

Awesome thanks!!

[DatSun620PU]

3" blocks in the rear should be good. as for the front riding rough, late 70's Ford Pinto shocks are the way to go in the front. They are shorter, have more travel, and a built in bump stop. I ordered mine for a 1978 Pinto. KYB Excel.

 

You just have to cut the ends off like this so it fits the mount.

 

Here is a write up someone else did on here:  http://community.ratsun.net/topic/46538-how-to-replace-datsun-620-front-shocks-fitting-pinto-shocks/

So doing my research because I wanna go lower. When reindexing are new shocks required? Or can I just remove my bump stops? 

[datzenmike]

I've read I'm not sure if I need drop shocks or not. Elaborate?

Using blocks in the back have no effect on the shock length or travel.

 

 

As for the fronts I believe the suspension will bottom out before the shock does. You could cut the bump stop down but removing them and continuing to lower you will find yourself bottomed with absolutely no suspension travel. You will be essentially rolling on two air filled beach balls, very bouncy.

 

Any change in ride height above or below stock will add toe in to the steering.

[DatSun620PU]

Using blocks in the back have no effect on the shock length or travel.

 

 

As for the fronts I believe the suspension will bottom out before the shock does. You could cut the bump stop down but removing them and continuing to lower you will find yourself bottomed with absolutely no suspension travel. You will be essentially rolling on two air filled beach balls, very bouncy.

 

Any change in ride height above or below stock will add toe in to the steering.

Okay thanks mike. Gettin my 38 dges today :D 

[heretic]

Actually I have to disagree.... I never put much thought to it & honestly it never dawned on me until my son & I put air shocks on his truck & the shocks were at their "high limit" with zero air... I was baffled until I realized.....  

 

Ideally, it would make complete sense to use a shock for a lifted 4X4 in the rear. Reason being, when you use lowering blocks in the rear, you are moving the lower shock mount away from the upper mount thus putting the shock, potentially, outside the ideal operating range, depending on the size of the block of course (we are on 3" blocks) by using "lifted truck" shocks in the rear it would put you back into the proper operating range of the shock.

 

just food for thought.  

        

 

Using blocks in the back have no effect on the shock length or travel. 

[]2eDeYe]

When you install the lift block the spring plate with the shock mount stays in the same location. If you used 720 4x4 springs the plate would move closer to the shock cross member. Not sure how it would do the opposite, maybe the air shocks were not the same travel as the factory shocks? :S

[heretic]

hahaha I really had to think about what you just said... Imma tard. I NEVER thought to measure the shock.... the spring/plate is static & the axle just moves up.