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Datsun 510 Coil


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So the coil on the car went (well atleast I think its the coil, it has no spark), and I picked up this beck arnley one. Its a little different so I'm confused.

Stock 510 coil

20140425_190218_zps1c969bc7.jpg?t=139848

 

New one

20140425_190240_zps5268d95c.jpg?t=139848

20140425_190303_zps56d26b17.jpg?t=139848

The 2 brass terminals^ have a negative marking on the plastic. Wheres the positive? And the ground is on the positive side (I thought these cars are negative ground?)

 

Thanks in advance

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lol

 

Connect up the old one. Put a plug in the end of the coil wire and lay on a grounded surface and crank the starter over. Is there spark?

 

No?

 

Take the dizzy cap off and look at the points while cranking. Do they open and close?

 

No.... adjust them so the gap is 0.021" about the thickness of a folded match book.

Yes... clean with file or sand paper or replace.

 

 

 

With ignition ON momentarily ground the coil negative side with a jumper wire. The coil should spark.

 

No?..... ballast resister may be broken.

 

Jumper a wire across the two ballast wire terminals and try again. Spark??

 

Yes!..... ballast is not working and needs replacing.

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You need power from the ignition to the positive terminal. The negative terminal is grounded through the points closing. The opening of the points and the breaking of the electrical circuit is what causes the coil to fire. If the points are open but don't close or closed and don't open the coil will not fire.

 

Don't replace something that may not need it. Prove the coil is bad first.

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yes that ebay is perfect.

 

the one you have is also perfect.(I think "Hobbes the cat" installed one.

 

 

that new coil(2 brass posts) one side is minus and I would assume the other side is positive. it should measure like over 1.2 ohms for just the coil.

 

the blk wht wire(key ON) will go into the ballast. you can use that blk wire thats on it already (make a jumper or just hook up to the resisitor)

the otherside of ballast with the 2 tabs. hook up the blk/grn or the blk/blu  the other one you didnt use will go to the +side brass post.   remember the blkgrn blk blu are shorted under the tape so just pick the one that fits the best

 

on the new coil I would get soem tabs to put on there so you dont have to cut your stock connectors.

 

 

all else fails dont do it and get the ebay coil and send me the toyota one. I ll use it.

 

 

most like your points are not opening ,maybe a shorted condensor(if thet really ever happens)

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save this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W94iksaQwUo

 

you can make sure power to the coil. blk wht wire is like 12volts at the input of ballast and around 6-9v at the +side of coil.

than take the center coil wire place near ground. then use your other hand and open the points up and the center wire should fire(1/8 to 1/4 to chassis)  close the points the coil will charge up then when points open coil looses power and magnectic fiel goes thru the center of coil to ground

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lol

 

Connect up the old one. Put a plug in the end of the coil wire and lay on a grounded surface and crank the starter over. Is there spark?

 

No?

 

Take the dizzy cap off and look at the points while cranking. Do they open and close?

 

No.... adjust them so the gap is 0.021" about the thickness of a folded match book.

Yes... clean with file or sand paper or replace.

 

 

 

With ignition ON momentarily ground the coil negative side with a jumper wire. The coil should spark.

 

No?..... ballast resister may be broken.

 

Jumper a wire across the two ballast wire terminals and try again. Spark??

 

Yes!..... ballast is not working and needs replacing.

 

With a jumper wire across the two ballast terminal wires there was spark when I grounded the coil negative

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With a jumper wire across the two ballast terminal wires there was spark when I grounded the coil negative

Then the coil works and you have power from the ignition.

 

Now check the points under the rotor. They are probably not closing.

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That's true.

if ballast open be no voltage to + side coil with key ON. you get 12 with key start thru the bypass wire

This is not true

if you didn't get 6-9 volts at the coil this would be obvious the ballast was bad????????????with key to ON

there are several reasons for not getting 6-9 volts
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Update: I replaced the ballast and still no start or spark from coil to dizzy wire.

 

remove the wires on minus side coil. then get a test light clip it to the minus side coil and put pointey end on chassis ground. the test light will flash when trying to start. if light on all the time then the points are constanly grounded.

 

his is s simple 3 min test.

 

I did this and the light stayed on

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If you have no idea what you're doing !!!!!!!!!

 

the truth is out!!!!!

 

Ok I used to swap points and it would not start. Put old points back in and then it would start. Then say WTF then put new points back in t hen it would run. ONly thing I could think of it when hooking up the point wire screwing the wire to back of points somehow it was shorting out.

Once I got a single point dizzy and put the Pertronix conversion in I never had a proplem in my 510 again. In My 521 the Pertronix magnet ring tape wore out as the bushing got worn.

 

 

Moral of this story is the best 100$ you can spend is a Machbox or a Electronic conversion for your car.

Not Camber plates ,Coil overs big wheels

 

Ps you wiggle back of the key connecter under the colume? soemtime one can loose power in Start or on the ON position due to corrossion or weak connection there.

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