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280z pulley on a 620?

Farmer Joe

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It will bolt on of coarse but I don't think the pulley will line up. Maybe if you get the 280z crank pulley too?


I just cut the clutch part off of mine. The shiny thing is the bearing for the clutch part, I left it on this one but it could be sliced away.




The first one I did, I cut too close to the weld that holds the pulley on the shaft and it was no good.




I cut just behind the bearing and cut off most of the weld that holds the pulley. Best to cut the bearing away in pieces, then trim the end of the shaft and you're good to go. The pulley is welded on all the way around the shaft, no way it will come off.


The advantages are you don't have to change or even remove the pump. If you want a deeper cavity larger vane pump with more capacity just get one from a Z24 motor and cut the clutch off, lines up with the lower pulley no modifications.


Here's the stock L20B water pump:



Here's the Z water pump with deeper cavity and larger pump vanes:



The 280z pump will be somewhat rare to find used (plus all the modifications to make it work) The 720 Z24 are common and yards are full of them. Actually all the Z engines I've pulled, 2 Z20E, 2 Z22S, and 3 Z24s all had the larger pump on them.


To check for a good used one, cut the belt off and pull sideways on the shaft in all directions... it should turn only, and should not have any play or looseness in any direction including forward and back. Remove and turn upside down an take a good look behind the pulley on the outside bottom. There is a hole there for draining coolant if the seal should fail. If there is any wetness or signs that coolant has leaked... pass on it and try another. If a yard wants more than $15-$20 for one find another or buy a new one, remember a good used Nissan original part is at least as good as a rebuilt NAPA made in China flavor of the month pump.



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so the waterpump, pulley and fan clutch are all one piece?


i kinda dont get it. lol


Yes they are integral and if one fails the whole assy. must be changed. The pulley is welded on and the back half of the clutch is pressed on and the shaft 'peened over' so it can't be pulled off. A silicone friction fluid is injected and the front half screwed on and the fan blades mounted.


Here's the front half unbolted from the back. You can see the yellowish drive fluid and the rubber ring seal to keep it in.



Just use a Skill saw with metal cutting blade and cut cut from top to bottom through the center. Just don't go deep enough to hit the pulley behind. As long as you get close to the center bearing it will snap apart with vice grips. Once off slice the bearing up and remove then trim the shaft back within 1/8" of the pulley.

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