dr.feltersnatch Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 motor is mostly assembled. now just waiting on a throwout bearing collar to arrive then she goes in :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Yes, seems most likely it failed from a stress fracture. L18s are almost bulletproof. I'm guessing a crack initiated and propagated from vibratory stress - probably a poorly effective harmonic balancer. L18s didn't use a harmonic balance. Didn't need one cause Datsun did a very very good factory balance. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 whats the brass plug? You going to use the org oil sender switch or a oil line? make sure that rear plug is in the back of block sometime the shop will pull them out and not tell you and oil goes shotting out the trans area. Im sure you know to prime the oil pump. I also put the mechanical fuel pump on last also I pump it by hand tp fill up the carb(till gas squirts in carb) I pour oil over the cam and down the front cover chain. Autosport Seattle is another good machine shop. I think they move to Ballard now Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 L-series/Z-series oil pump is self-priming. When installing a new pump or after disassembling & cleaning fill it with lube or manually prime it. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 whats the brass plug? Z series motors had the heater hose come out of the side of the block because there was an intake on that side of the head. One or the other would need to be plugged. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 L-series/Z-series oil pump is self-priming. When installing a new pump or after disassembling & cleaning fill it with lube or manually prime it. YES. Even install the pump without the spindle. Buy a long screwdriver and cut the end off. Insert down the dizzy hole and use an electric drill to turn the pump. You can watch the oil gurgle out onto the cam. 1 Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Brass plug is exactly what mike said. I plan to use the original sending unit. I bought a new ka oil pump and the reason its not installed yet is I havent purchased oil yet and I want to prime it before I install it. What do you guys run for break in oil? I dont plan on synthetic but anything special or just regular oil? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 I bought a new ka oil pump and the reason its not installed yet is I havent purchased oil yet and I want to prime it before I install it. glad you went with a new pump. would suck to have to rebuild cuz the used pump was bad.. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Z series motors had the heater hose come out of the side of the block because there was an intake on that side of the head. One or the other would need to be plugged. i don't have a heater. rather than plug mine, i just ran a line from the head to the block. i like to think it helps with keeping the head cool on the LZ24 they were plugged. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 glad you went with a new pump. would suck to have to rebuild cuz the used pump was bad.. It is easy to check the pump. The factory service manual gives the specs and pictures of what to check. No need to replace it if it is in spec. If you buy a new pump, better check to see if its in spec. Would suck to have to rebuild cuz the new pump was defective.. Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 I went with a new pump for the higher output. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Brass plug is exactly what mike said. I plan to use the original sending unit. I bought a new ka oil pump and the reason its not installed yet is I havent purchased oil yet and I want to prime it before I install it. What do you guys run for break in oil? I dont plan on synthetic but anything special or just regular oil? 'Break in' oils used to provide less protection and promote some wear to speed up the break in process. Oil and motors have also changed a lot since the '50s. New motors were driven carefully for the first few hundred miles back then. All oils meet a certain level of protection some may have more. Synthetic oils are a no no as they are so slippery that the 'break in' time is extended or extended indefinitely and the motor has poor compression and burns oil. I would select any good cheap fossil oil and rely on a good break in procedure. The best way to promote ring to cylinder wear is to force the rings against the cylinders by heavy throttle applications for wear, followed by light decelerations to polish the walls and flush away the fine particles of metal. As soon as the motor is warmed up, valve lash checked, oil and water checked, take it out on the highway and accelerate hard through 3rd gear up to highway speeds and let slow down. Twenty or more times would be good and as soon after the motor is fired up for the first time the better. Do not allow the motor to idle for prolonged periods or drive at steady speeds for the first thousand miles. In town keep it revved up and changing RPMs. Change the oil and filter at 500 miles for your favorite non synthetic oil. If you plan on using a synthetic oil, wait till 5-10K miles. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 buy cheap ass 30wt from wal mart. I dont use synthetic never have. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 No need to replace it if it is in spec. i meant a used JY pump. even in spec, who knows what may have gotten in there. once when doing a V8 build we had a new oil pump fail. they paid for a new motor w/o much hassle. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Who know what's in there us a good question. The factory service manuals shows how to inspect it. Basically disassemble, visually inspect and measure clearances. New pumps should be inspected before installation as they do sometimes fail. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 What's up with the long tube coming off the threads for the oil filter? Have you gotten this in yet? I love my LZ. Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 took far too long but she lives again!!!! it runs pretty good, still have some tuning and adjusting to do but she lives!! Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 ITS ALIVE! vell done mein dr. 1 Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 so i have about 120 miles on it now and a few issues i noticed are when it is cold i noticed a tiny bit of smoke out the exhaust at acceleration. its been long enough to burn off most stuff so it shouldnt be smoking at all now. i also noticed my ka oil pump really increased my oil psi maybe too much. at idle i am at 45 psi and at 60mph its almost 80 psi. this is only until it warms up and it drops to 25 at idle and 45-50 at cruise. i used lucas assembly lube and it was really tacky, and i used as lot of it so i am thinking its all related. assembly lube is thick causing high oil pressure causing a touch of smoke. i keep reading to wait until 500 miles to change the oil but i am really tempted to change it now to see if it brings down the oil psi and cures the smoke. is there any reason to wait? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 if it makes you fill better and maybe run thinner oil in there also since a new motor.10/30? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Too much oil pressure? No such thing. That's within the Nissan factory specifications. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Pressure is the same for me with my LZ. I have the Z22 oil pump but the larger of the two. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Oil pressure can't cause smoke. There is nowhere in the engine where the combustion chamber is exposed to oil pressure. Unless the head gasket is leaking. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 You could be running too rich? Quote Link to comment
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