Toney Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Hi everyone. It's been an extremely long process getting my 510 on the road and took it for a spin up the street. It is an L18 with 5 speed and I believe it is a L16 differential. I feels as if I am driving with the brakes on. I changed out the rear adjusters and adjusted them properly. I am getting most power on the high-end. Is this the power tht I am going to have with it? Could it be the differential holding me back? Thanks for feedback! Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Or even possibly my fuel pre-filter? Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Not really a lot of information to go on. How's the compression? What all are you running? Is the diff noisy? Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Is the E brake fully disengaged ? Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 I was going to check the compression right now. It is super loud too loud. E-brake is fully disengaged. I apologize I do suck at posting to forums it's hard to get all the info out. I am running a 32/36 weber brand new and top end performance headers. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Is your timing right? Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 I checked the timing not too long ago. And it was dead on. I need to buy a new timing light and recheck it. I also checked for vacuum leaks. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Have you swapped dizzys? You could be off there. Chain off a tooth. Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 I haven't changed or taken the dist off Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Is the weber adjusted properly? They are not always ready to go straight out of the box. Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 It was adjusted properly and I tuned it by sound and rpm with fuel/air and idle screw it's idling around 1200 warmed up all the way. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 You may want to check the valves & adjust if needed. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 If there is any doubt, place in neutral and carefully raise each wheel and spin the tire. Do all four wheels. If you can spin them the brakes are not dragging. The differential won't hold you back if it runs best in 4 or 5th gear. What is the L18 out of? Look behind the dipstick, top edge of the block. The block should have L18 stamped there.... does it? Look on the bottom edge of the head just behind the #1 spark plug and just above the top of the iron block. The head casting number is there. What is it. 210? A87? U67? Now. Remove the distributor cap and look. Are there two sets of points? Check or have the valve lash checked. 0.010" intake and 0.012" exhaust on a hot engine. When checking the timing did you remove the vacuum advance hose from the distributor? If you didn't, do so. Also your idle is too high and may be adding mechanical advance and you are getting the wrong timing. Adjust the carb down around 750-800. 1 Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Awesome! Thanks for the feedback, I will check all of that mentioned tomorrow and will update later tomorrow or Sunday. Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 So far I have... L18 block 210 Head and I am running an electronic dist. And just for clarification I do a just the valve lash when it is fully warmed up correct? 620 tech is no longer available the davidcmurhpy website? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Well the 210 head is meant for an L16. It will certainly work on an L18 but it ups the compression from 8.43 to 9.38. You may have detonation issues. Try high octane gas or retarding the ignition a few degrees to see if that helps. Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Ok that's great info to know thanks! So my timing was off quite a bit I adjusted that and got it close to 12 BTDC my pre-fuel filter was clogged up so I changed that and it did in fact resolve my problem. I still need to check compression and valve lash. I was also having issues with some throttle linkage that I fabricated so I fixed that as well. I do appreciate the positive feedback and great info thanks again! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Listen for a pinging sound when you step on it, coming from the engine. Higher octane gas may fix this as it makes the gas harder to ignite by itself from compression heat. Or you can just turn the distributor timing back (retard) a few degrees counter clockwise and test it again. Another option to think about is to keep your eyes open for an A87 or a U67 head. Both have larger combustion chambers and will run much closer to stock compression and timing. A bonus is that the valves and ports are much larger than the L16 head. Your intake and header will also fit these heads and the 32/36 weber will really wake it up I think. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Higher compression returns better fuel economy. More then the 5% extra that premium gas costs. Win-win. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Actually true, if timing adjusted properly. Our work van had to travel 60 miles a day to this job and we filled it often. I religiously tracked the gas used and the mileage. It runs on regular but I ran a few tanks of high octane or premium through it. The EFI automatically adjusts the timing and yes we went further on premium. I worked it out and it more than payed for the extra amount per liter. Proved it several times but the gas bills were extra high and I didn't want the company squawking. They would see the bill not how far we went on a tank. Plus it seemed to defy logic. I continued with the cheaper regular and less mileage. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Yes, extra spark timing also returns better economy. Premium allows you to advance it. With high-compression no need to add extra timing, the high compression will achieve a similar result. Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Or you can just turn the distributor timing back (retard) geez mike take it easy on the guy he was just asking a question :rofl: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Just told someone to fix a run on sentence, I mean paragraph. Now I see that I called someone a retard. Quote Link to comment
Toney Posted March 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Great to know that! I will keep an eye out for one if I come across a good deal, however I am still far from messing with the engine I still need to register insure and finish my custom dashboard. I will post up a project thread once I get all that done. LMAO I didn't even catch that (retard) until dr. Feltersnatch posted it! That was a good one! Thanks for the laugh Quote Link to comment
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