$$!??#%%! Fuel starvation when it's raining

[mtngoat]

I have to say I'm pretty tempted by electric

[mtngoat]

I have to say I'm pretty tempted by electric

[datzenmike]

About one liter per minute.

[mtngoat]

So if it idles for 15 sec before it dies (with the fuel line off) and pumping into a jar I'll get about 250 cc

[smoke]

Don't think u have a fuel delivery problem.

[datzenmike]

Agree. But should idle for longer than that with full carb.

[smoke]

Like a low float level would cause.

[mtngoat]

It's tough for me to believe its not a fuel problem. Filter near dry/empty

 

O2 readings of 15-18 under load at 65

[mtngoat]

If I run it at 60 instead it will cruise @ 14ish

 

New cap rotor wires last month

No arcing around coil

[mtngoat]

Plus IGN misfires show rich on the meter, bad plug wire learned me on that

[ggzilla]

Ah

[mtngoat]

Turned out my local, pretty decent parts store had an Airtex E8106S kit on the shelf at only ten bucks over the cheapest web price (once I said give me a deal) and cheaper than the Nikki pump at EBay plus shipping.

 

What the heck, I went and picked it up. Hopefully I'll get it done tonite. I'll place the pump n bracket, then do the wiring, then finish the plumbing swap.

 

There's plenty of room in front of the tank right where the hose from the tank goes by on it's way to the hard line, this location is my first choice.

[ggzilla]

So even though your pump exceeds pressure and volume tests you're going to replace it?

 

Well maybe just moving/tightening the fuel hoses when you replace the pump will solve the problem.

[mtngoat]

That dribble I see entering the filter isn't exactly high volume!

 

I also checked the entire line front to back, again while I had the tank out. Blew air through it, did the suck n blow, seemed good. Compared it to five feet of new hose, seemed little different

 

So the answer is yes.

[mtngoat]

Well admittedly it took longer than I thought, had to drop the tank again to put the pump where I wanted, then the wiring and' fun behind the dash hour.'

 

But it switched on and pumped first try. Gauge is steady at 4 psi, it pumped about 12 oz in 20 sec or so into a cup from the filter.

 

I'm at the gym after a couple mile run on the freeway at 65, o2 looks right, no problem so far.

[mtngoat]

Home from work, freeway run was perfect. Haven't had rain or a good Gorge headwind yet, the two aggravating conditions (wind became one as the problem worsened), but I am cautiously optimistic. 

 

Got the SSS single weight dizzy with a pertronix on my L20b, what static advance do you guys run? 

[datzenmike]

Why the factory 12 degrees of course.

[mtngoat]

Ok it's running better, I think you guys were right about a combination of issues.

 

Fuel system seems perfect now that pump works great, the flow is good, pressure 4 psi, no leaks, filter always full now.

 

I see the static timing at 12, I'd replaced the wires cap rotor last month.

 

I'm getting misses at 3200 and above, or below with high load. I can sneak up on it but if I put my foot into it, it misses. The wind finally returned and the headwind means I need more loud pedal and she sputters above a certain point.

 

I suppose it could be fuel still but that seems unlikely at this point to me. I did the cup test at each carb and it pumps plenty.

 

I'm wondering if the 20 year old pertronix unit is giving up the ghost or if I have coil or dizzy issues..

 

Checked plugs, they look ok. shaft of dizzy seems tight as in no side play. Ran it at 3400 in the dark, hood up, saw no arcing anywhere or st Elmo's fire on the wires like I saw with some crappy old wires once.

 

Also retuned the carbs.

[smoke]

Pertronix do fail of course, some thing to check on it are the voltage to the red wire should be a full 12v. Also, if the distributor shaft gets too much play in it, it can cause it to cut out. When it starts sputtering now, does the wide band start reading lean?

[datzenmike]

It takes more voltage to fire a plug under load than just revved up sitting still. Higher voltage means the spark will look for an easier path to ground than the plug gap. This could be a carbon track left by previous arcing on the coil, inside or outside the distributor cap, the rotor and even the porcelain on the plug(s). Often very hard to see. Carbon tracking will look like a small jagged crack or a spider web thread on the surface. Voltage always, looks for the shortest, easiest path to ground. You must make the spark plug that path, by keeping everything else well insulated.

[mtngoat]

Read up on pertronix fails

 

They tend to fail hard, either periods of no spark at all then back again, or totally dead

 

That's not what im feeling, more of a rev limit which lowers with load, if I'm climbing a hill it won't pull as high. Wo2 swings wildly at this point rich lean

 

Checked the cap inside and out this morning it's totally clean

 

With 1150 hours on the motor I decided to check the cam gear timing and the mark showed some stretch so I grabbed my chain wedge and moved it to hole #2

 

This made a difference, it pulls much better now below my weird rev limit

[mtngoat]

I wonder if my coil is finally going? It's original as far as I know

It looks it!

[smoke]

Well, if you're gonna be over this way again, I can give you one to try.

[floyd17]

soft hose might be collapsing under heavy throttle

but still cant figure out the wet dry thing

 

The moisture might make the soft hose more pliable.

[mtngoat]

I think that's part of it. I put dielectric grease in all the dizzy holes and the coil, etc in case it was hitting the ignition, but i'd get out and look and they'd be dry.

 

And the filter would be empty.