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Datsun Down 2


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thank you all for your input on my first Datsun down post if you have read the carbs i bought where CRAP so now iam looking for a set of working non-leaking complete set up of s/u's and iam limited to a 150 to spend on this and i have a few items for a trade or trade and some cash so please help i need to get this running i have a race comming up soon and would love to finish the season so if you live in the greater Portland or vancover area i could come get them also up to olyimpia isnt to bad and once again thanks to all except the jackass that raped me on the cards the first time around :fu: thats for u:eek:

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hey city those carbs look just like the one i have whats the difference between them

 

Sorry to jump in on this...:o They are both 3 screw, but the ones off the Z car are Hitachi and 44mm, versus the 1.5 inchers (38mm) MGB set you have on your car. They have to be "detuned" to run leaner and to achieve better performance as they dump more fuel because they are made for a 6 cylinder motor. They can be used ONLY IF you know for sure the manifold that was fabricated can accept them (the attachment of the carbs to the actual manifold) 38mm Hitachi carbs are 2 bolts from carb to manifold, 44mm carbs are 4 bolt, but its the pattern that I would verify to see that they fit the manifold. You wouldn't want to have one manifold, and two sets of unusable carbs. Also, don't forget, the 44mm SUs throttle rotates opposite the 38mm for a 4 cylinder!!

 

For future reference, here is a good link: http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/zsus.html

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the mainifold was made for these carbs i bought the set up as u see it in pic the problem iam haveing is with the lower fule line from the bowl they leak bad

pics018.jpg

 

if i could find away to fix i that would sweet

 

The ONLY way I can think of is to remove that connector at the base of the float bowl and get it down to a place near you that does custom hoses/lines for hydraulics. Most of those shops have various connectors, one that is either flared or barbed to accept fuel lines. Once you get that (hell get two and take care of both carbs). FYI, the Hitachi variety are part of the float bowl, no removal (nor do I want to fook with it) and it's flared. How do the carbs run otherwise??

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there is on old Volvo in the yard with these type of carbs. I cant help you get them though... I'm busy with school and work....

 

Phone: (562) 404-2277

 

 

13780 Imperial Hwy

Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670

 

All the good stuff ends up at that yard....WHY, Datsun Gods, WHY!!!!!!

 

All right, I feel much better now. How long has it been there? I can try to get there this weekend or early next week.

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so if the carbs i have dump more fuel and i have a Big cam then i think( oh great here it goes) it would work out for the better for me i am not looking to get good fuel econmy out of it looking for preformance the car really isnt a daily driver:( i usaly haul it everywhere.

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Performance? More like wet spark plugs, misfire, fire through carbs, etc. It's the needle that needs reworked, as I see it. It's almost best to fix the leak that you've got at this point. Then you're not rushed into a set of SUs that need work (and believe me every set I've seen needs something, be it floats, fuel metering needles, or worse. Can the end shown in your pictures be removed from the float??

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All right, I may have another option. Post some pics of the connection of the float bowls to the carburetor bodies. I want to test a theory. If you could get a set of float bowls from a roadster or 240Z, they should be able to bolt through those holes. All the float bowls do is meter the fuel going into those carbs, nothing more. In fact, your carbs wouldn't "know" the difference, the float bowls are independant of the carbs themselves. It would be some frankenstein carbs, but they would work, and you could get new fuel metering needles and other DATSUN parts easy. Most of the rebuild on these is in the float bowls anyway.

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yes they can be removed they are the same as the Datsun carbs except the float bowl and the guy i got them said they were made for a l20 i dont know if he ment the intake or the whole set up going to try a few things this weekend to get it to at least start it lol

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yes they can be removed they are the same as the Datsun carbs except the float bowl and the guy i got them said they were made for a l20 i dont know if he ment the intake or the whole set up going to try a few things this weekend to get it to at least start it lol

 

I've got my money riding on the fact that the manifold was made for an L20B, and the set of carbs, well, not so much...:rolleyes:

 

I say keep hope alive for some decent used float bowls, that will at the very least solve the fuel leaking problems you have.

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what about carbs off a 1600 roadster how would thoese work or are they too small (i have a roadster just chillen) ???

 

The carbs are the same from the 1600 roadster through the 2000 roadster, should work just fine on your L20B with the cam, as long they are 1.5 inch (38mm).

 

freaky510, not to jack yer thread, but we should get a mod to merge your threads together, and put it under Engine, so if anyone else has this problem in the future, we can direct them to one place. Just a thought...:o

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Brian, if you use the 38mm SU's from a roadster, they are functionally identical to the L series 38mm SU's and will work, however, you will need a cable throttle setup to use them as well as an L series manifold. I you're going to that much trouble and you have a cammed L20b then give a thought to the 42mm Roadster SU's. At constant high loads with the 38mm's I've noticed that I run out of fuel ( I think I'm emptying the float bowls).

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i have already switched to a cable system and as it started iam looking for some s/u' i have a roadster that runs sweet and in need of body work so was thinking i could borrow the s/us off it untill i find a set i have an intake that will work so some one please help iam 1 week away from race time:eek:

 

are you using a manual(stock) or electric fuel pump

 

and thanks for all your help on this

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Sweet, that monkey motion linkage is pretty wierd and sloppy. If you've already converted to cable I don't see why you couldn't mount the roadster 38mm SU's up to a L series manifold and get it to work. In fact, I have a pair of extra 38mm roadster SU's.

 

I'm using a stock 510, L16 mechanical fuel pump, I'm thinking of upgrading to the larger L20b truck one as it looks to flow more volume. That could be one of my problems there Brian.

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