Electrical Issue

[EdwardK]

Oookaaay... So.

 

My truck has no electrical power. You can get it to kick off down a hill with the clutch and it'll run for a little while. But if you turn the headlights on the truck just dies. It quits; nothing, nada.

 

I tried to crank it while it was still in gear right before it started doing this so maybe that has something to do with it?

 

Charging the battery tonight and I'll see what it does tomorrow... I don't have much hope though, we tried to jump it off and it did nothing.

[dr.feltersnatch]

Check the fusible link. It is a small wire that plugs in by the positive battery cable. It feeds power to your fuse block

[datzenmike]

Oookaaay... So.

 

My truck has no electrical power. You can get it to kick off down a hill with the clutch and it'll run for a little while. But if you turn the headlights on the truck just dies. It quits; nothing, nada.

 

I tried to crank it while it was still in gear right before it started doing this so maybe that has something to do with it?

 

Charging the battery tonight and I'll see what it does tomorrow... I don't have much hope though, we tried to jump it off and it did nothing.

 

While this isn't in itself wrong or dangerous it will put a huge amperage draw on the battery and more importantly the cables. It's very possible this large draw has 'blown' the connection just like a fuse.

 

I would start by removing the cables and cleaning them and the battery posts and tighten them back on. If the clamps are not tightening properly or are cheap, replace them. Next... clean the other ends. The ground cable where it is bolted to the head behind the fuel pump and the positive cable where it bolts to the starter lug. Clean and tighten them. Do this while the battery is charging so you don't weld something by accident.

 

 

This will probably fix the problem, but if not, we can eliminate cables and battery connections and it didn't cost anything.

[EdwardK]

While this isn't in itself wrong or dangerous it will put a huge amperage draw on the battery and more importantly the cables. It's very possible this large draw has 'blown' the connection just like a fuse.

 

I would start by removing the cables and cleaning them and the battery posts and tighten them back on. If the clamps are not tightening properly or are cheap, replace them. Next... clean the other ends. The ground cable where it is bolted to the head behind the fuel pump and the positive cable where it bolts to the starter lug. Clean and tighten them. Do this while the battery is charging so you don't weld something by accident.

 

 

This will probably fix the problem, but if not, we can eliminate cables and battery connections and it didn't cost anything.

 

 

Checked everything you said this morning. Nothing seems wrong.

 

I did find a blown fuse, but it also wasn't the problem. My dome light that's been out for months works now. lol

 

I've narrowed the problem down to the headlights, taillights and starter. Everything else seems to work, blower for the fan works, running lights work, Main power works. I have yet to check the horn.

 

But anyway, dashboard lights all come on until you either a.) press down the brake, b.) Turn the key to start, or c.) Turn on the headlights.

 

Also, the car cranked fine after I tried to start it in gear and I left it idling so it would warm up. While I was waiting I decided to check all my lights. Everything died when I turned the brights on. So maybe a problem associated with that?

 

Battery holds charge, alternator appeared to be working when I managed to get it started by rolling down a hill. (Actually drove it home in the dark with only my emergency flashers. I love living in the middle of nowhere.) While driving it everything seemed okay unless I tried to turn the headlights on; engine would lose spark when I tried.

[datzenmike]

Check the fusible link. It is a small wire that plugs in by the positive battery cable. It feeds power to your fuse block

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This is next. The wire may look ok but be fried inside the insulation. The plugs on the ends may also be bad.

[EdwardK]

.

This is next. The wire may look ok but be fried inside the insulation. The plugs on the ends may also be bad.

 Checked it with a voltmeter, no resistance. 0.04 Ohms

[datzenmike]

Wiggle it incase broken and just making contact.

 

 ok then this wire leads to the ignition and half the fuse box. If it's good then the battery is low and that could be the alternator not charging.

[dr.feltersnatch]

 If it's good then the battery is low and that could be the alternator not charging.

that was my next thought maybe it is just enough to keep it running and when you turn the lights on voltage drops too low and it dies

[henryhustler]

Or corroded battery end or connections. Just this happen to me in my 620 and I cleaned up my battery cables/ battery and was back in business. Just a thought. Wouldn't hurt to check!

[EdwardK]

Definitely think it's the fusible link. Got around with a multimeter and was checking voltages. Anything past the fuse box draws nearly all the voltage off the battery. (Gauge lights, my little test probe, horn, etc.)

 

Anything not connected to or before the fuse box? All good.

 

So I guess this weekend I'm tracing the fusible link through and replacing it.

[datzenmike]

On the 620 it will be wired to the positive battery post. It feeds directly to the IGN. and the one side of the FUSE BOX.

[EdwardK]

On the 620 it will be wired to the positive battery post. It feeds directly to the IGN. and the one side of the FUSE BOX.

 

Question.

 

If my fusible link was out, would I still have twelve volts off the Black wire connected to the fuse box? And with the ignition set to ON I have 12 volts at the red/black wire.

 

If I plug the fuse box in and turn turn the ignition to ON I have 12 volts for a second or so and then my voltage drops to .42 millivolts.

 

I checked the fuse box from the back, 0.04 Ohms on all connections.

[datzenmike]

On the 620 it will be wired to the positive battery post. It feeds directly to the IGN. and the one side of the FUSE BOX.

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A burned fusible link may make very poor contact... enough for some readings, but if you put a load on them, like turning the key to ON and power has trouble passing the burned section. 

 

 

Find the fusible link. It will be a separate Green wire on the positive battery terminal. The link will only be a few inches long and will have a plastic connector on each end so it can be disconnected from the Black wire and replaced. Maybe the connection is loose?

[banzai510(hainz)]

that was my next thought maybe it is just enough to keep it running and when you turn the lights on voltage drops too low and it dies

 

this would be like during the old alternator test. start truck then remove the batter post and see if runs. But really if you put lights on it will die. this is overloading ther alt.

 

I would charge battery and measure the voltage. maybe alt has low out put or soem thing.

 

as for the fusable link try not running the car and put the lights on High beam and see if the fusable liknk will get hot or pop..

One could alway bypass the fusable link but I dont have a felling its it. I just measure the 12volt from fusable link to the fiuse box and pretty much means it good unless wires are stranded out of it.

 

.o4 ohms is close to a short on a chines volt meter to me. just compare it with a good known wire and see what the ohms is . Of caorse longer the wire the more resistance.

[banzai510(hainz)]

If you lose 12volts after a second or so. I would disconnected the lights. via the fuse or at the lamps.

then try the ignition. start disconnecting circute till the 12volts stays. so remove the other circuts to see if overloading the battery(like a short).

 

alwasys clean and have new batt cables. and good connection. water in battery.

also maybe disconnect the alt + wire and maybe the volt reg if a short in there

[EdwardK]

Alright. I have some photos of my Ignition Plug and the Fuse box plugs. I think I know which circuit is pulling all the power. lol

 

(Also first time using photobucket, should work I think.)

 

Passenger Side Fuse Box Plug

 

Driver Side Fuse box plug. Gee, I wonder which one isn't right? Any ideas as to why that circuit it pulling all my voltage out?

 

 

Aaand the ignition plug. Most of the damage to it was there after my starter engaged going down the highway. But the white has had further damage to it since this problem started.

 

 

Also, I'll go try what Mike and Banzai said here in just a moment. Didn't see your posts until I uploaded this.

[EdwardK]

Battery.

 

It was the battery. I was convinced it wasn't because I had it "tested" at the autoparts store.

 

Swapped my battery from the 610 in there and it fired right up

 

*Facepalm*

[datzenmike]

That burning is more likely bad pin contact. The brass male and female connections become tarnished and this adds a small resistance. When normal current is drawn through it heats up like a toaster and melts the plastic. Often unplugging several times will polish the contact points.