my 72 ka dime build

[BADime]

I had an account here years back when I started this project but I guess since my profile remained idle for so long, it is no longer. Some of you may remember my car, but if not, here we go again!

My stepfather surprised me with this 1972 2dr 510 when I was 15 years old as a shell from a junkyard with literally nothing in it. No doors, hood, trunk, anything. It was merely rolling metal. He owned an auto body shop and wanted to pass on his trade and passion of cars, and 510s. First we started gathering the body parts and sanding, and sanding, and sanding, and I remember a lot of sanding (this was about 7 years ago) before we started to assemble the car. Next I was challenged with forming fender flares to the original rear flares and it was the biggest pain in the ass, but I did it. Then it was into the paint booth for a shiny metallic silver finish. I wish I had pictures of how this project started. (maybe it's archived somewhere on here?) We went on to building a motor and putting in together. I originally built it with an L18 and drove it as my first car when I got my license at 16. I drove it daily until i started getting into fixing up other cars and flipping/trading them. Eventually in 2009 I joined the military and was sent overseas for 13 months while this car sat in my garage. My stepfather passed away in march of 2010 in a snowmobile accident, and I keep his eulogy posted on the window of my 510.

 

RIP

 

Fast forward a couple years and here we are.

 

 

I recently bought a 240sx to teach my wife drifting and as a donor KA for my 510.

 

 

I started by posting my L18 on craigslist which was promptly purchased by a local dimer who needed it.

 

 

About 10 days ago I finally pulled the motor and trans out of the 240sx and started cleaning it up. It took me an evening to pull it, and it was sitting in my 510 the next day. I guess you could say I was a little eager to get this going.

 

 

I followed a couple build threads I found here and on NICOCLUB and it really wasnt too bad. I even had Inline4 come out to help with the wiring (thanks again).

 

 

Got it all buttoned up, flipped crossmember, brand new driveshaft built from scratch, and fired it up.

 

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10202700994235670&l=201951282937683414

 

 

It had no problem idling but if I gave it more than 1/4 throttle it would cut out and die. I drove it to a close exhaust shop and had the exhaust welded up from the headers back, then drove it back home to assess the cutout situation. I figured it could be a few things; spark plugs/wires (one wire was always problematic), O2 senson (i ripped off the wire during the exhaust manifold install and soldered it back on), or the fuel pump (rated to flow at 105gph or 398lph). New spark plugs, wires, and O2 sensor in hand I started to replace the easy items. Or so I thought. O2 sensor was no problem, spark plug wires were as easy as 12345, and then came the spark plugs. 1,2,3 was tight as fuck and 4... Oh number 4! Snapped my 3/8 socket extension and broke the spark plug off inside the cylinder head. F@#*!

 

 

So I did what anyone who wasnt trying to rip the head off would do and got out my easy out set. What happens next you probably already saw coming. I tap it in, no prob. Turning it, it bites! Keep turning it, SNAP. Now it's a party!

 

 

 

Of course next is pulling the head and taking it to a machine shop and they laugh at me and get it out no problem. Rebuilt it, new gaskets and head bolts and blahblah.

 

 

Did research on the torque specs for the head bolts and was really being careful to follow the tightening pattern. Still somehow ended up snapping one off in the block (it hadnt even reached 60ft/lbs). At this point i'm just pissed! Luckily after removing the head again I am able to spin the remainder of the bolt out with some tweezers.

 

 

I go back to the auto parts store and grab another set and try again, this time not trusting my torque wrench as much as my instinct. Put it all back together and fired it up. Runs even worse now but atleast I know the internals are clean. This is where I'm at now.

 

 

I think whats going on is the stock FPR is being over ran by a 105gph fuel pump. I know I shouldve just ordered the walbro to begin with but i had this one laying around and figured more fuel was better than not enough. I just ordered a walbro as suggested by many other threads and it should be here early next week at the latest. If anyone has any other suggestions, input or experience with this swap let me know. Especially in the socal area, because if this fuel pump change doesnt work I'll probably want to have it towed to a shop who can help me get it running like it did before I pulled it. I'm frustrated but also proud. I'll keep this thread updated as best I can. Thanks for reading!

[Work280]

Have you tried to lower the pressure with a pair of vise grips? But if it idles fine all the way to 1/4 throttle it sounds more like a throttle position sensor or a maf problem. Just my 2 cents. Nice car I really like the color

[The Taterhead]

Hey Eric Bana with tattoos, thats a nice looking car you have there. Nice color and box flares ftw.

[BADime]

i tried installing a regulator but it didnt seem to help. I just picked up a fuel pressure testing kit and i'll be messing around with it a little more. Thanks guys!

[Fat510]

Nice work man. It's coming along nicely :)

[Danfinny]

Try the MAF, kinda sound like it. also first mistake was letting Joe help you lol... J/k 

[yellowdatsun]

Box flares baby! WoooHooo! Love it.

[Danfinny]

Did you figure it out yet?

[BADime]

My bad. Been busy with other projects, but you'll definitely get a laugh out of what was going on. I installed the walbro fuel pump and checked pressure at the feed line after the fuel filter. Awesome pressure and my return line was working. Fired it up. Runs really rough and after a few minutes the manifold was glowing. Then I remember this thing called timing! Got out the trusty timing gun and fired it up and just couldn't get it close enough to the 20 mark. I WAS 1 TOOTH OFF WHEN I INSTALLED THE F@&$ING DISTRIBUTOR! This thing runs like id always hoped and spins tires like crazy. Thanks everyone for all the help. Next is to do a shakedown (basically just drive it for a while) and then get it out to the track.

[The Taterhead]

Negative. Next thing to do is post a video of depositing rubber onto the asphalt in a circular motion.

 

 

[Dirttrack510]

Sharp car, box flares and paint color looks great :thumbup:

[N0RCALDIME]

Oh hey. I found my old account username and password. Yay! I'll be using this one from now on. I've been dialing in the KA. Getting it driveable and doing an overall shakedown. I registered it in its first real track drifting event on June 14th. Ordered some new seats and harnesses for it, threw some fresh wheels and tires on it, and just have spent too much money. But it's almost there and I'm happy. In the mean time, how's this for an update?

[N0RCALDIME]

Oh and here's a couple pics, just because! Enjoy

 

[izzo]

i remember that car!  glad you're back.

[N0RCALDIME]

Thanks. Glad to be back!

[banzai510(hainz)]

I remember this car and its better than ever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[m.o.n.a.]

Now that the way to post a video. Looks like a fun machine and your step dads spirit lives on!!

[The Taterhead]

Negative. Next thing to do is post a video of depositing rubber onto the asphalt in a circular motion.

In the mean time, how's this for an update?

 

Thank you. That's what I'm talkin' about. Very nice.

[N0RCALDIME]

Havent really updated or touched the interior since building it years ago, so I figured it was about time!

[N0RCALDIME]

I couldn't just get new seats and harnesses. It was still lacking something interior wise, and since I haven't been running a tach since the KA went in, I figured it was time for an upgrade. So I started by pulling the old cluster. And then I realized my radio bezel was only being held on by 2 screws so off that came too. And then there was just this big ass useless heater core sitting there, so naturally it had to go. I thought, "wow look at all this room for activities!"

 

 

And off I went in search of new ideas for the dash. Since I am ultimately getting it ready for a drift event in a couple weeks (stay tuned for vids and pics from that) i thought why not just make my own setup. It isn't finished yet, but you get an idea of where it's headed. Here's my progress so far:

 

Started with a sheet of zinc plated sheet metal and an angle grinder.

 

 

I cutout 2 pieces (one for trial and error, one for the final) and started measuring and drawing out placement options.

 

 

 

In searching for gauges I found a lot of really good reviews and what looked like quality gauges from SpeedHut. But because they spend so much time custom making these gauges to perfection (2 weeks before shipping) I had to choose a faster option. I searched around a lot and ultimately chose to go with just the gauges I thought were necessary to start with. Tach, temp, fuel, and volt.

I contemplated a GPS speedo but decided I would just make a permanent mount for my phone and use my speedometer app. (Saved me $300+)

After a lot of searching, I went with the AutoMeter Phantom gauge set which I ordered from Summit and had it delivered in less than 48 hours. Always impressed with those guys.

 

 

Then on to cutting the final piece, adding a carbon fiber wrap for a seamless look, and fitting the gauges!

 

(Before someone asks, yes that's a turbo on my left arm. I also have the subaru boxer horizontally opposed piston layout tattood on that arm, but that's a story for another time)

 

 

I pre wired everything before even looking at the fitment. I don't enjoy doing electrical anything, and for 4 gauges this seemed a little much but I got it all prewired and ready for the first fitment in the car.

 

 

 

I'm pretty happy with it right now, but I still have a few things to do. Let me know what you guys think and stay tuned for more progress! Thanks

[N0RCALDIME]

So in case anyone was wondering, you need a programmable fuel gauge if you want it to work with the stock 510 sender. I made the mistake of taking some info from the Internet and running with it. Also, with a KA the stock coolant temp sending unit threads are bigger than 1/8 NPT (and metric), so you have 2 options when it comes to installing your new sender for your gauge. You can either drill and tap a hole into the block wherever you see fit, or you can buy an adapter for about $20 which is pre drilled for a 1/8 NPT bung and runs inline with your upper rad hose.

[N0RCALDIME]

New sender & stock sender:

 

 

Mishimoto adapter. Just cut the hose, make sure you ground the adapter, and run your sender wire to it from the gauge:

 

 

And all are functional now!