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Marty's '70 4dr 510 Build (lots of Pics)


07FlyingWagon

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Greetings all!

 

I've been lurking in the shadows for over 10 months now.  Only recently was I able to aquire a 510.  The first photos most of you saw were in the "What did you do today" thread, and it sparked intrest :-) so thus here we go!

 

A little back history on Me:

First car I remember workin on was a Datsun 210 when I was 6 or 7.  "Helped" my dad change the transmission ;-) basically handed him wrenches LOL

First car I drove at 16 was a beat up '66 Mustang, which I owned for 18 years until I sold it earlier this year (to fund my need for a datsun ;-) )

First brand new car I bought was an '07 WRX Wagon - I have a thing for wagons...  all wagons...  even ugly 80's American Wagons with fake wood side paneling...  Its a sickness, I know...  I go to meetings for it LOL ;-)

Family of Wife and 2 kids, thus 4 doors was my goal.  5 would have been better, but when this car popped up on my radar I couldnt pass it up!

In addition to being a wagon whore, I am also a picture Whore, which as I start to make it out to meets I am sure the locals will realize hahah B)

 

A lot of what follows is what the Previous Owner (PO) told me - which I trust.  Friend of a friend from Red Bluff.

 

1970 Datsun PL510 (according to PO, something special about this car due to the side markers, especially the rear ones...  have yet to fully research it)

L20B motor, rebuilt, runs, but oil rings clocked incorrectly (according to P.O.), so she smokes... quite a bit lol

Stock L20 head and cam

Hitatchi SU carbs

5spd from a '77 200sx (according to P.O.) 2nd, 3rd, and 5th all toast. (will be swapping the orig 4spd back in, which PO included)

R160 Subaru LSD (awaiting instalation)

14x7(?) Z wheels (I like them, but I'm considering Powder Coating a color to match my paint scheme, which is stil TBD)

 

 

 

Here are a few of the day of Pick up:

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Here she is in my garage after a LONG bath:

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And the work begins...  Interior is thrashed, stinky and full of 3 years old gas fumes..  all must go!

IMG_2097_zps778a5cbc.jpg

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*NOT pictured was the 2 55-gal bags of trash I removed from the car... was a bit of a general dumping grounds for a couple of years*

 

Tank coming out for Boil, Acid and reline:

IMG_2110_zps26b1531e.jpg

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Destroyed the filler tube in the process (was dried up)

IMG_2117_zps128b52de.jpg

 

 

Up on stands for Trans removal:

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Got halted by 7 of these (this was after I "fogged" the garage twice):

IMG_2123_zpsc148f86e.jpg

Just in case the picture does not do it justice - that is a 15mm box end...  Thats how big that Momma was LOL

 

 

So there is the start :-)

 

Later today I will post up an update on the trans removal/re-install, but I have a pad of concrete I need to Roto-Hammer out in my back yard :poop: :poop: :poop:

 

Hi-Ho, Hi-Ho, off to work I go! LOL

 

Thanks All,

~Marty~

 

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Nice intro. It's strange to see a 70 with the side markers like you have because I am pretty sure those are from 68-69 years. Your grille is also off a 69 too....

its early 70 late 69 ..dash, antenna, side markers,rear datsun emblem,front valance, etc..etc all 69 .. 70 vents because it has plastic vents lol...69 would have had black plates...nice car ether way..

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Made some more progress this evening.  After I was done blasting out the concrete in my side yard to make room for new drain lines I decided that I woudl finish the trans swap since I had help in the form of man-power and Man-Beer! B) :thumbup: B) :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

 

Here we are starting, after dark.... and after a little liquid courage

IMG_2131_zpsbc63fe6d.jpg

 

5 Speed after removal and after spilling 3-4 quarts of old gear oil on my friend and my pristine garage floor.  Believe me when I say that Old Gear Oil stinks almost as bad as old gas.  *GAG*

IMG_2137_zpsb4d3e1e2.jpg

 

4spd back in, minus shifter rod.  Just ran out of energy......  Nah, really, we ran out of beer.  I do believe that it is blasphemy to work on a car without a beer/wine/liquor beverage ;-)

IMG_2133_zpsa2b463ba.jpg

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Here is some pic's of the damage which needs to be addressed soon:

IMG_2122_zps93581d6a.jpg

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and a new door to work with

IMG_2109_zps769c1207.jpg

 

Heres the new Battery, Fuel pump and filter

IMG_2132_zps72933799.jpg

 

 

In addition to my Drain Line retrofit, I also paused from the Datsun to make room form this:

IMG_2128_zpsb4f05dd4.jpg

 

And no evening working on a car would be complete with out a tasty, frosty beverage

IMG_2136_zpsc87a80ed.jpg

 

Of course only one.  We are in contact with moving parts, heavy hunks of metal on top of jack stands, and gross grease ;-) lol

 

 

 

*edited for spelling corrections*

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If you are shopping for rust repair patch panels to fix the rust behind the rear wheels, spend the money and buy the Australian patch panels, as the Wolf Steel/Alfa Parts patch panels out of Canada are not very good.  I believe the AU panels will reach up the rear 1/4 enough, at bumper level/trunk floor where your worst rust appears to be.  Be ready to have to patch up the INNER panel behind that, which you will have to fabricate, as I'm not aware of a new patch panel.

 

Is that replacement door the same Bamboo color??!!

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If you are shopping for rust repair patch panels to fix the rust behind the rear wheels, spend the money and buy the Australian patch panels, as the Wolf Steel/Alfa Parts patch panels out of Canada are not very good. I believe the AU panels will reach up the rear 1/4 enough, at bumper level/trunk floor where your worst rust appears to be. Be ready to have to patch up the INNER panel behind that, which you will have to fabricate, as I'm not aware of a new patch panel.

 

Is that replacement door the same Bamboo color??!!

Thanks for the info!! Are the Aussie rear QPs out yet? I have been following their post on here but had not seen an update regarding the rears.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the inner panel too. I'm okay with fabbing flat pieces, it's when you need to put in, say, a bumper relief where my fab skills end lol.

 

The replacement door is not the same color unfortunately! My crappy iPhone picture is deceiving - it's closer to a white tone, so I don't know what to do yet LOL I like the patina with the majority of the car, but that damn door screws thing up lol. May just need to rock the multi cor for now. I swear there is like a gallon of Bondo on that freaking door LOL

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Good luck on your build. I still have a 510 all taken apart for over 15 years waiting for me. Soon as I can get the other sedan and wagon up and running I plan to get back to the one that's all apart. That's the good thing about having one you only have to work on I guess. Well I can't wait to see how it looks when you get it finished.

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Thanks Edekalil... Yeah my goal is to not have to take te whole thing apart a at once, but to do it in stages, focusing on starting with one task and finishing it before moving among to the next. That was the major problem I had with my last project - got bogged down I starting a bunch of little things and never fully finishing them, both due to a lack of funds and a lack of focus (totally not saying that's why yours has been apart for 15 years :-) ). I can tend to be easily distractable lol

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Interesting little factoid - when I put the new fuel pump and battery in the thing fired right up! (Ran the suction hose into my 1 gallon portable gas tank)

 

Also, most all the lights work!!! Back ups are disconnected and one o the side markers is busted (new ones on their way from EBay). Pretty cool that the rad H4 lights the PO wired up still work!

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Got a few things done this past week, unfortunately not enough to make it to the Manteca meet, and Sac-to meet is still questionable ;-)

 

Clutch master cylinder cap broke on me

17515B5F-C618-4375-A148-8A2D343A326C-104

 

So I Epoxied it together with locktite

CD0943E4-2A8D-422C-83F1-7424A6C060B3-104

 

Daddy got a new pair of shoes!

E6188A64-2D17-436D-BE3F-CC0B597DC46D-104

453AD143-74E2-4D48-8011-54A2D05A3377-105

 

God bless TireRack! Lol ordered the tires Monday, arrived Tuesday - warehouse was outside of Reno, NV!

 

Got the tank back from the boiler - need to scuff it and reprint with Rustoleum semi-Gloss ;-). Then need to fashion a new fuel filler tube. May do the 240sx mod that was written up in DimeQuarterly

83F78CBC-0D41-4A1F-BA18-1BAA76FBEF7F-105

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Great find man. I love that color. My first 510 was that bamboo color. Yea I agree with others that you have yourself a '69 that was registered as '70. Awesome! Get it ready for Canby and roll up there

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Got a few things done this past week, unfortunately not enough to make it to the Manteca meet, and Sac-to meet is still questionable ;-)

 

Clutch master cylinder cap broke on me

17515B5F-C618-4375-A148-8A2D343A326C-104

 

So I Epoxied it together with locktite

CD0943E4-2A8D-422C-83F1-7424A6C060B3-104

 

Daddy got a new pair of shoes!

E6188A64-2D17-436D-BE3F-CC0B597DC46D-104

453AD143-74E2-4D48-8011-54A2D05A3377-105

 

God bless TireRack! Lol ordered the tires Monday, arrived Tuesday - warehouse was outside of Reno, NV!

 

Got the tank back from the boiler - need to scuff it and reprint with Rustoleum semi-Gloss ;-). Then need to fashion a new fuel filler tube. May do the 240sx mod that was written up in DimeQuarterly

83F78CBC-0D41-4A1F-BA18-1BAA76FBEF7F-105

Are you doing any anodizing or anything to the tank to keep it from rusting again?

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For the outside, scuff n paint is always the cheapest, but we used to sandblast & powdercoat tanks at one of the shops where I worked.  For the inside of the tank, you can buy a kit to "seal" the inside, or pay for a specialist to do it. 

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Great find man. I love that color. My first 510 was that bamboo color. Yea I agree with others that you have yourself a '69 that was registered as '70. Awesome! Get it ready for Canby and roll up there

 

That would be awesome!  It's "only" an 8 hour drive from Sacramento  teheheh :rofl: :w00t: :w00t:

 

Seriously though that is my plan for next summer.  Have the wife and kids in the truck behind me (just incase  :thumbup: ) and head to Caby for a Family Va-Cay!

 

Not going to worry about anything except prepping her for a long road trip.  First trial will be heading to Fresno for a weekend at some point around x-mas/NYears

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For the outside, scuff n paint is always the cheapest, but we used to sandblast & powdercoat tanks at one of the shops where I worked.  For the inside of the tank, you can buy a kit to "seal" the inside, or pay for a specialist to do it. 

 

The shop that I had boil it out said they would re-line it if needed, but when I picked it up from them they said nothing about it and only charged me for the boil and acid wash (Would have been another $125 to re-line it.... maybe worth it in hind sight)  I'll look for a liner kit online, see what I can find.

 

my neighbor has a pretty sweet spray gun setup and has some left over sprayable epoxy that he clams could seal the tank from every rusting again. 

 

The outside of the tank was not rusty until after the "bath" it was given.  Inside was a different story.  They boiled it twice to get all the old gas out, thus why I think I should perform the due diligence and re-line the tank......

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Wheels and new tires being mounted tomorrow or the next day.  Have a friend who does that kind of thing, so basically its on his time schedule and my supply of Coors Light (the only reason I buy the Rocky Mountain Kool-Aid is for him! lol)

 

Bled the clutch Slave cylinder, now need to reinstall the drive line, the starter, and the slave cylinder (have the wrong length bolts for the 4spd, apparently the 5spd uses different bolts for the starter and the slave cylinder.)

 

 

 

Sweet find and great start, dude!! :thumbup:

 

Keep up the great work!!

 

I had to hack in a filler neck to 5Teezy also.....it's holding up pretty good so far.

 

What did you end up using as a basis?  I was thinking about measuring and heading to the local AutoZone to find some NEW fuel filler tubing instead of working with junk yard stuffz... what do you think?

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Up on all fours LOL wheels off for my first time.  You can even see some of the tools and compounds I have tried to use to polish the wheels:

photo_zps74670349.jpg

 

Did some cleaning of the nasty valve cover.  May sand blast it, but this helps for now.  Strange that the PO used the L16 valve cover instead of the L20B.. Hrmmph...

photo2_zps5b4d449c.jpg

 

 

**Edit**  Sorry for the crappy iPhone Pics up till now...  just haven't has the time to whip out the T3i....  a little lazy i know ;) **

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What did you end up using as a basis?  I was thinking about measuring and heading to the local AutoZone to find some NEW fuel filler tubing instead of working with junk yard stuffz... what do you think?

 

People have done a couple different things to solve this problem.....I've seen people hack in filler tubes from other Nissans.....

 

I know Creepy is working on one that looks promising in the Fuel Filler thread.......no updates lately.....as you already know

 

I wasn't thrilled on anything so I went my own route.....I could've done a much cleaner job but at the time I was in a hurry for a Fun Run deadline...

 

Someday I might clean it up.....but for now it works great....No leaks, No fumes :cool:

 

Hope this helps....

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/40947-project-5teeezya-pharaohs-510/page-15

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So I have been researching the SU carbs since I'm out of town for work and can't do any of the items on my list that I want to. I came along this article:

 

http://zparts.com/zptech/articles/mal_land/ml_sucarb2/images4/SUcarb_111601d.htm

 

Interestingly enough I also had a friend who is into Triumph Spitfires mention that his dad had used the SU setup on his Spit. He recalled the motor smoking after installing them, (and if you recall the PO of my carmentioned that he may have rebuild the motor incorrectly thus the smoke). My friend then asked me if I had checked the oil level in the carbs.. That was his dads issue on the Spitfire.. Too much oil.

 

Any one else out there run into this? I'm on my phone viewing the article I posted above, and I've read the darn thing like 3 times but still can't find a specific oil level to fill to, thus my concern... Anyway, Ill throw it on te PC later this morning and read it again, see if I can't glene some more info ;)

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I grew up with MG's, don't currently own any, but still involved with them.  The oil in the "dashpot" of the SU carbs has absolutely no way to get drawn into the carb throat........that is a myth.  If you overfill it, the oil will simply squirt out of the tiny breather hole in the top of the cap (British SU's have this hole, I never looked at the Hitachi SU cap but assume it is there), when you stomp on the accelerator.  I always knew when I overfilled, because there would be oil spot above each carb on the underside of my hood, and excess oil covering the dashpot lid/dome! 

 

Remove dashpot cap & rod, see the threads where the cap screws in?  Fill oil level to the bottom of the threads.  Moss Motors MG Triumph parts supplier in Goleta CA does sell a "dashpot oil", but we generally don't even use it.  Any light weight oil will work, many have used ATF over the years.  Think of it as a simple hydraulic action......the oil slows down the raising and lowering of the dashpot piston.  No oil, the dashpot will slide right up, and right back down again.  The lighter the oil, the quicker the dashpot will raise and lower.  The heavier the oil (like 20/40 engine oil) the slower.  The colder outside air temp, the viscosity of whatever oil you use "thickens", once the carbs get hot from the transference of the engine heat, the oil will "thin out".  BUT, those are details that you shouldn't worry about on a street car, unless you have really mastered the fuel metering & balancing of the carbs etc etc, and you are down to the smallest tuning adjustments.  I always ran whatever engine oil I was running in my engine!

 

One of the best manuals out there is the Haynes Manual......very user friendly.  The early issues were seperate for the Su's, Webers etc etc......the current issue has them all combined.  Search "haynes su" on eBay for variations, or just buy this if you don't already have.........

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Zenith-Stromberg-SU-Carbs-Haynes-Manuals-Haynes-Haynes-New-Book-/181235672710?pt=US_Texbook_Education&hash=item2a327ce686#ht_1187wt_914

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