So I bought a 620...

[c4ck4]

I wanted a small truck with decent mpg, discovered datsuns, loved the 620's, craigslisted for a week or two and finally pulled the trigger.

 

I drove the truck about an hour home and noticed:

It pulls to the right a bit when breaking (it has sat for a few months) -- I have receipts showing rear wheel cylinders replaced and drums turned in 2010 (24k miles ago)

 

I stopped along the way and heard the coolant bubbling into the overflow tank, so I stopped and let it cool, and went home slowly (it was over 100F today and was still pretty hot)  When I restarted it to continue home the fan DID come on.

 

When I shut off the key the motor ran a little bit, sputtered and died, and when I finally got home it sputtered a bit more, possibly backfired (wasn't that loud) and died.  I'm thinking timing?

 

I haven't had a chance to look closer at any of it, but I need to get this sucker in daily drivable shape as soon as possible so I'll be trying to figure all this stuff out to up the reliability.

 

Are there any general things to watch out for with these trucks?

 

 

 

[robopineapple]

might be dieseling, thats what my 510 does... its not very good. if it gets bad and if its a manual, kill it with the clutch. Welcome to the forum! 

[c4ck4]

Thanks, it is a manual 4 speed.

 

I also forgot I was going to say, it's got a cracked windshield too, so I'll be looking into how to replace that.  Something tells me it might be difficult or require a lot of money and/or luck finding parts.

[Guest Rick-rat]

Check Rock auto for a windshield

[KlassicMotion]

Welcome.

 

Not knowing how much you know, I will tell you what I know, and what I'd look at:

 

You will find we all have our own opinions and methods.  Do what works best for you!

 

**Windshields are easy to replace.  The glass new, will cost you, the rubber is cheap, the butyl sealant is a few bucks. Find a good used Glass from someone on here and you're good to go.**

 

Your windshield can be found on here used, a good glass shop should be able to get one, eBay has one or two right now, OR, here is a quote from one of my threads by carterb;  I took his recommendation and ordered a windshield for my 510 here.  I haven't called to see if they have one for the 620, but I think it's a good chance.

 

carterb

WAGON GUY

• 
• Senior Member
• 
• 527 posts

• Location:Lynnwood, WA
• Cars:510's

Posted 01 April 2013 - 10:44 AM

I recommend contacting Richard Tankel for a windshield.  And PRP for the gasket(s). 

 

ProSource Glass International

Toll Free:877-345-2800

                 978-975-5400

Fax:         978-975-5300

Cell:         978-790-4657

Website:  www.prosourceglassintl.com

 

http://www.prp.com/

 

 

For the windshield rubber, I've been looking at eBay for one of those too.  That will depend on what all you need and how much you want to spend:  (a lot of guys on here don't like eBay... eh, it's whatever.  It's easy to shop on there.  Check amazon and Rock Auto too.  Also Google datsun parts.  There are a few suppliers, I forget all of them right now)

 

For eBay:

If you want just the windshield rubber, I see that atomboys has one for 39.00 + shipping.

 

If you want the windshield rubber, back glass rubber, door seal, and side glass belt molding, basically a full weather stripping kit;  datsunlandsocal has that listed for 299 + shipping.

 

Or just piece what you need together.

 

For Misc. used parts, look up Eagle Adam on here.  Good guy, lots of parts, he says he is tired of storing them. I gave him my laundry list, and he came up with 90% or more of it.

 

Brakes:  I'd be tempted to just open them up and take a look at them anyways, but, if they pull I'd try two things:  one make sure they are adjusted properly; two, bleed them and make sure there is no air in the system.  I also assume you will look at your fluid level, see if it's low and look for leaks...

 

Your other issues:

 

Overheating; I always drain my system and Flush it when I get a new vehicle.  Look for leaks, maybe replace the thermostat and radiator cap.  Hook up vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and check for a blown head gasket. And yes, timing.

 

What year is the truck? What engine?  The engine and head are stamped and cast on the passenger side.  The engine is stamped on the boss towards the head, near the dipstick tube.  The head is cast forward of that, near the block surface.

 

http://www.olddatsuns.com

 

This is from that site, these are the two pages I use the most:

 

http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/html/tech/head_ID_2.htm

 

http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/620tech.htm

 

Also you will want to check your Valve Lash.  This is a big deal on the L series.  Make sure the valves are set properly.

 

What carburetor does the truck have?  If you don't know, get us a good picture and we can tell you.  Actually a picture of the engine tells a lot. 

 

I believe all the stock Hitachi carbs came with the fuel cut-off switch "anti-dieseling".  If you have one, it may not be working....

The Weber 32/36 comes either with or without the fuel cut-off switch.  If you have one of those (most common swap for that application) that could be the issue.

The Weber 38 carb does not have the fuel cut-off switch and if not properly setup (even if it is setup properly) can have an issue with dieseling.

[cruznude]

Good work truck you havw there!  Klassic is correct the parts are still out there and not to hard to find.  The guys on here are always looking to get parts or sell from others.  Welcome to Ratsun..

[datzenmike]

Complete your profile by adding the year of 620. This will tell if you have front disc or drum brakes. Pulling to the right is likely a drum brake adjustment. Run on or dieseling could be the idle too high or idle cut not set up right.

[jvb5577]

Complete your profile by adding the year of 620. This will tell if you have front disc or drum brakes. Pulling to the right is likely a drum brake adjustment. Run on or dieseling could be the idle too high or idle cut not set up right.

YUP!  When I got my truck with a weber the idle was crazy high.  After a long trip it would diesel (keep trying to run).  Adjusted the idle and has never done it again.

[c4ck4]

Wow thanks for all the info!  I didn't have a chance to try and figure out what motor it had when I bought it, but wouldn't have known where to look anyway.

 

It appears I have an L20b with a U67 head.  The engine bay appeared pretty stock to me, or at least they are using the original air cleaner.  I haven't pulled it off yet to get a closer look at the carb.  I did notice that there was a port that seemed to be partially tacked closed by brazing that might have been part of the emission control system.  I also saw a couple pulleys on the lower right side with no belt on them.  I'll try to attach pics.

 

I really wanted to get started tearing into it today but I had a lot of other things I had to take care of, maybe friday or the weekend.

[KlassicMotion]

The L20B with U67 is one of the more desirable setups.  Two 3/4 veiws of the engine with the air cleaner off would be good for reference.

[GRpufnstuf]

Rockauto has the glass and seal for about $182+shipping.

 

A couple members have used Bulldog Auto Glass in Portland and were happy.  They quoted me $220 installed.  He needed a couple days to get the glass and I couldn't wait so I spent more with Action.

 

your engine run-on is almost certainly "dieseling", usually timing but I've seen schematics of original Datsun engine/carb setups with "anti-diesel" valve or something like so maybe they are prone to it too.

 

I'd say take that big bumper off B4 anything else!

 

good looking truck and welcome!

[c4ck4]

I think I'm going to need to buy some new tools to work on this thing.  I have a variety of tools but have never done much engine work.  I have a small metric/sae socket set that goes up to about 13mm I think, and a few random end wrenches.

Any suggestions for the specific tools I might need to pick up?  I've got jacks, jackstands and stuff for changing tires.  

 

Right now I'm thinking of picking up a vacuum gauge and compression tester, and maybe a few larger metric end wrenches.  I'm not sure if I have a deep socket that will fit the spark plugs, I should go dig around and see what I have first.  I'll try to get some engine and carb pics uploaded later today.

[BlackBird620]

I'd get a couple Allen wrench sets sae and a metric aswell as a set of t10-t45 and get sae and metric up to 1" & 19mm should be all you'll need for the most part

[GRpufnstuf]

Haynes manual

14mm and up sockets

Open ends

12v Test light and/or multi meter

Allens (just to have some, not for the datsun)

Timing light

Feeler gauges

Jack and jack stands

And on and on and...

 

I've seen Portland datsun people offer a lot of help on other threads. Your in good company up there for 620 owners.

 

Best tools I ever bought myself are 3/8" an 1/2" drive cordless impacts. Save so much time and energy!

[KlassicMotion]

For the basic stuff on the Datsun;

 

This is what you will need most often; 

 

Wrenches and Sockets:

8mm

10mm

12mm

14mm

 

There will be times you need:

13mm

15mm

17mm

19mm

21mm

22mm

 

Screw drivers, of course.

 

Get yourself a couple of hammers.  Something like this will work for most things:

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mechanics-hammer-set.html

 

A 12" or 15" adjustable wrench comes in handy.

 

There will be other stuff you will need, but this will get you on your way.

 

I'd suggest checking craigslist for tool sets.  Sometime you can find some good deals.

[c4ck4]

Thanks, I've got most of that stuff, just spotty on some of the wrenches and sockets because I never bought a good set of either.

 

It started up fine the other day and I stopped twice on the way, but didn't start when I tried to move it to jack it on level ground.  It was cranking really well but didn't seem to fire at all.  I pumped the pedal good, and tried a shot of starter fluid but no change.  I popped off the distributor cap and the points looked a little white and crusty.  It fired right up great the other day.

 

I know a little bit more about the electrical starting system than the fuel side of it, so I think I'm going to go get a new cap, new points, new plug wires and new plugs anyway just to eliminate any older parts.  If that doesn't do it I'll have to look closer at the fuel side.

[KlassicMotion]

I'd say go ahead and replace the ignition parts like you intend to.... It can't hurt, you just may spend money you don't need to, but in the least, you will know how old the parts are.

 

But, if you want to see if your getting spark at your plugs, you can pop each plug wire at the plug, stick a #2 Phillips head screw driver in one plug wire at a time, set it on your radiator support, or a metallic surface...  Make sure there is about a 1/2" inch gap between the shaft of the screw driver and the metal surface (not touching).  Crank the engine with the key and see if there is a spark between the screw driver and metallic surface.....  That will tell you if your getting spark to the plug....

 

If your on a budget and tight on money, you can buy some Emory cloth from the parts store, and lightly sand the the rotor contacts, distributor cap contacts, and points contacts (reset the gap afterwards). That will get you by, but if things look too bad inside, you will probably want to swap them out....

[GRpufnstuf]

My stock carb floods at the drop of a hat.

I pump the pedal once or twice when it's cold and it starts fine. If I pump at all when it's warm/ hot I'm sitting for 10min.

It's been rebuilt and tuned by "professionals".

 

Do you smell a lot of fuel when it won't fire?

[c4ck4]

It had been sitting for 3 days or so, I pumped it once before starting, no hint of starting, then I pumped it more.  I didn't smell any fuel no.

I am definitely on a budget, but I happened to have a little bit of money and that's what allowed me to buy this truck.  I was looking at one with nicer paint for $2000, but got this one for $1000.  If I could fix all the basic stuff, get the breaks working and have it running smoothly for another $1000 I'd be happy, but I'll definitely be back in budget land soon.  I just want to do whatever it takes to get this into daily driver shape because I'm trying to sell two cars and clean out the drive way before my roommates get frustrated by my madness. :P

I just went out and bought stuff for it:

 

metric wrenches and sockets
thermostat w/ gasket

plugs/wires

vacuum  gauge tester and compression tester

got a new key made

 

Edit: Oh and points, cap and rotor weren't at the parts store, they said they'd have to special order so I think I'll pick some up at rockauto.

[KlassicMotion]

Get it running better then do your brakes.....  I just priced out replacing all my brake parts at the wheels (so not replacing master cylinder and steel lines), but including the parking brake cables,  and it totaled near $500.  Like I said, that's worse case for my '73 620, if I need everything...  I'd say that is one of the most important places to start on a daily driver.  Once that is done, then see where your budget takes you.

[c4ck4]

Well I'm getting spark on all cylinders, I hand sanded the points inside the cap (are those still called points?) and the rotor tip.  I bought a $3 spark plug tester light thing to make it easy to see when they were firing.

I guess that leaves fuel...everything was working fine the other day when I bought it, I guess I'm just glad I got it home.  I wanted to get started on the brakes and overheating right away but I guess starting it comes first.

 

Here are some pics of the carb:

 

 

 

 

 

Brazed thing that might be emissions removal:

 

master cylinder looking kinda crusty:

 

[c4ck4]

Okay I'm definitely not getting fuel.  I unhooked the fuel pump output line and cranked and nothing came out.  I blew through the fuel filter with no resistance, and blew through the fuel pump with no resistance.  Next I'm going to try blowing some air through the fuel line and return line from the back near the tank toward the front and see if they are restricted.

 

The guy I got it from said it had been sitting for a while, and it only had 2-3gal in the tank.  I went and filled it up and put in around 7.5 gal and then drove it ~60mi home.  I drove and ran fine then I parked it.  I'm thinking maybe there is a lot of sediment in the tank that got stirred up.

 

Is there a fuel filter inside the pump?

What the heck is this small tank in the right rear wheel well just above the fuel tank?  Is it a fuel return staging tank that drains slowly back into the main tank?

Any benefit to draining the fuel out the bottom of the tank where there is a drain bolt?

Do these datsuns have a fuel pickup arm with a filter on it inside the tank?

 

I don't really want to drop the tank, but I still have to try blowing through the fuel lines.

[GRpufnstuf]

Have you checked that your fuel pump is working? Maybe a glass of gas and a hose from pump into it? Make sure it fires that way before you take apart your fuel system.

 

My 620 has a clear fuel filter on the passenger inner fender and a big window on the front of the carb to see fuel/float level.

 

I believe the only pump is mechanical and mounted high at the front of the engine. I'm new to the L engines so I could be mistaken

[KlassicMotion]

No, there is not a filter in the tank.

 

Yes, the only pump is on the right front of the engine. 

 

The container over the rear wheel, is the evap canister.

 

I too would pull the line off the carb and see if the pump, pumps into a bottle.

 

It's also quite possible you have a clog in the fuel line.

 

If your not getting fuel out the pump, but the pump is working, then yeah, try blowing air back through the fuel line (before the filter).  

 

If there is a clog in the line, then I would drain the fuel and see if there is rust in the tank.  You can use a paint strainer in your funnel when you do it, so you can re-use your fuel.  I strain mine twice, once draining from the tank, then I swap containers and strain it again.

[c4ck4]

 

Have you checked that your fuel pump is working? Maybe a glass of gas and a hose from pump into it? Make sure it fires that way before you take apart your fuel system.

 

I too would pull the line off the carb and see if the pump, pumps into a bottle.

 

 

Good point I didn't think of that, maybe mostly because I just drove it the other day but I guess things can fail any time and when diagnosing you gotta get everything.  My gut tells me that maybe some sediment got stirred up good when I refueled right after buying it.  And unfortunately the tank is still mostly full of gas so I'll have a lot to drain.  There is all day tomorrow though.  Thanks for the suggestions, I'll keep updating.

 

Could anybody tell if that is a stock hitachi carb btw?