So I bought a 620...

[datzenmike]

Saw this too late. While it is best to get rid of the old fluid, bleeding the whole system is almost certain to snap one or more bleeders off. Only sensible thing to do is replace the wheel cylinders affected now.

[c4ck4]

Thanks a lot for that link Klassic.  I had only the .pdfs for the '74 and '78 from davidmcmurphy.com.  It's nice to have one from the exact year, especially with systems that are different.

 

I did order the same factory service manual but it's not here yet.  I got lucky I guess and got one for $18 shipped on amazon.

 

 

Saw this too late. While it is best to get rid of the old fluid, bleeding the whole system is almost certain to snap one or more bleeders off. Only sensible thing to do is replace the wheel cylinders affected now.

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying.  So I only replaced one wheel cylinder, but once there is air in the system you need to bleed it out everywhere.  Are you saying somebody ought to plan to just replace every part with a bleeder in it when repairing part of the system?

 

I'm ordering a new master cylinder, hopefully I don't get it and install it and then bust a bleeder off somewhere else, then have to order that part and so on.

[KlassicMotion]

Oh, yeah, I also forgot you already ordered the manual... Cool.

 

Start soaking all the bleeders in penetrating oil.  When I try to crack open an old bleeder, I first start with tightening it first (not too much pressure just try to move it a hair.  Then I gently and slowly "wiggle" it one hair at a time back and forth until it breaks free.  Since your waiting on you master cylinder, soak them now, give it a day, and climb under there and see if you can loosen them now.  That way, if you do break one off, you have time to replace now before the M/C comes in....

[c4ck4]

 

Start soaking all the bleeders in penetrating oil.  When I try to crack open an old bleeder, I first start with tightening it first (not too much pressure just try to move it a hair.  Then I gently and slowly "wiggle" it one hair at a time back and forth until it breaks free.  Since your waiting on you master cylinder, soak them now, give it a day, and climb under there and see if you can loosen them now.  That way, if you do break one off, you have time to replace now before the M/C comes in....

 

Gotcha, sounds good, thanks for the advice.  Locally I can only find master cylinders without the reservoirs (not in stock on order) so I just ordered a complete one from rockauto.  I could put the old reservoirs on but why?  They look like they might break when I pop them off anyway.

 

I guess it's probably next weekend before I can make any real progress.  There are a few minor things I could work on in the meantime.  Like my glove box cover falls off when I close the door or bump anything slightly.  The plastic hinge is completely broken.

 

I'm also thinking about putting in a super simple audio solution that I can just hook up to my phone.  I don't really like any of the stereo decks I've seen, so I was thinking a small t-amp like this would be easy and suitable for a while.

 

http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI

 

[KlassicMotion]

 Like my glove box cover falls off when I close the door or bump anything slightly.  The plastic hinge is completely broken.

 

Common Problem. Good luck finding one.  My next project is to see about making one out of metal, or finding one from another car and making it work with the 620....

 

Sorry I didn't get you that link earlier...  Even though I have a million bookmarks,  I forget about digital manuals and info.  I'm a hard copy guy. 

 

I've also been runnig on 4 hrs sleep every night for the past month, so I may sound grouchy on here, or forget what's going on (sorry).... But I know how usefull it is when you get quick responses, even if they aren't in the exact direction you need to go, sometimes just getting a response, will get the attention of others on here to respond....  That said, you will find some of us to be grouchy all the time!  Just blow it off and take the advice that best suits you.  Overall, this has been the best Forum I've come across, within the Datsun community, and compared to Forums on other Makes and Models...

[GRpufnstuf]

If I read the thread correctly, this guy will have dashes and glovebox doors available in fiberglass and carbon...

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/53934-74-and-then-some/page-3

[abbylind]

Dont forget the front reservoir on the MC is the rear brakes and the rear one is the fronts..I forgot that and had to start over with my bleeding sequence

[c4ck4]

 I'm a hard copy guy. 

Yeah me too, that's why I ordered one first thing.

 

That said, you will find some of us to be grouchy all the time!  Just blow it off and take the advice that best suits you.  Overall, this has been the best Forum I've come across, within the Datsun community, and compared to Forums on other Makes and Models...

I haven't heard any grouch yet, you guys have all been super helpful.

 

I'm probably just going to rig something simple to get the glovebox to work for now so it doesn't keep hanging from the curved stabilizer arm thing every time it falls open.  Maybe I'll just screw/glue a small piece of canvas or something across the hinge to make it work for now.

 

My factory manual came today!

 

 

[jwerty1]

Make sure you have a wrench that fits the bleeders snugly, or vice grips.  Put enough force on them to think they are coming loose, if they don't, add more penetrating oil and heat it up with a  propane torch.  chances are you will get it loose without ruining it or breaking it.  Just be careful.  Mine all came loose pretty easily after some finesse.

[GRpufnstuf]

 

I'm also thinking about putting in a super simple audio solution that I can just hook up to my phone.  I don't really like any of the stereo decks I've seen, so I was thinking a small t-amp like this would be easy and suitable for a while.

 

http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI

I ran one of these ,

 

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-BlackBerry-Smartphones/dp/B004CLYJ2I

 

With something like this peeking out of the center console for volume control,

 

http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AALC-Controller-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003FPD3IS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1380022068&sr=1-2&keywords=Audio+input+knob

 

Straight into the amp in my daily driver.

 

I listen to iPod, podcasts, and iHEARTradio if I really feel the need for commercials and douchebag DJs. No head unit anywhere. It's the best!

[abbylind]

"I'm probably just going to rig something simple to get the glovebox to work for now so it doesn't keep hanging from the curved stabilizer arm thing every time it falls open.  Maybe I'll just screw/glue a small piece of canvas or something across the hinge to make it work for now."

 

I used a small piano hinge from the hardware store. Screwed it to the door and the dash. Works great!

[KlassicMotion]

I've also been runnig on 4 hrs sleep every night for the past month, so I may sound grouchy on here, or forget what's going on (sorry).... But I know how usefull it is when you get quick responses, even if they aren't in the exact direction you need to go, sometimes just getting a response, will get the attention of others on here to respond....  That said, you will find some of us to be grouchy all the time!  Just blow it off and take the advice that best suits you.  Overall, this has been the best Forum I've come across, within the Datsun community, and compared to Forums on other Makes and Models...

I haven't heard any grouch yet, you guys have all been super helpful.

 

I feel compelled to clarify,  I wasn't referreing to anyone on this posting...

[c4ck4]

Okay so  the master cylinder was supposed to come in friday but didn't and finally got here yesterday (monday) instead.

 

I picked up some flare nut end wrenches to be sure I got a good grip on the brake line nuts because I know what a pain they can be.  Well surprise surprise, a bunch of them were already fairly rounded, and it turns out somebody spliced the lines about 12-18 inches from the master cylinder ports.  I just didn't happen to notice earlier.  Also, while very similar in size, or maybe just warped from abuse, not all the nuts are even the same size, some of them don't fit any of my metric flare nut wrenches.

 

Especially considering the splice, I'm tempted to just rip out the lines on the bottom of the master cylinder since I have better access to the nuts up at the splice.  I haven't worked with splicing brake lines before (is that even okay?) and I'm trying to pick my battle and figure out which spot to attack if things get so round I can't get it undone.

 

Advice would be appreciated.

 

 

 

[c4ck4]

I'm thinking maybe I can get away with getting those splice lines out of the flare unions and putting in some new pre-fitted short lines like these:

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/AGS-Poly-Armour-Inverted-flare-thread-brake-line-Located-in-backroom-fixture/_/N-268j?itemIdentifier=85328_0_0_

 

 

I'm not ready to re-line all the way back if I don't have to.  I want to be safe though and don't want my brakes failing.

 

EDIT:  Updated the link to the correct double flare (not bubble flare) line that would mate properly to the master cylinder ports.

[KlassicMotion]

I'm thinking maybe I can get away with getting those splice lines out of the flare unions and putting in some new pre-fitted short lines like these:

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/AGS-Poly-Armour-Inverted-flare-thread-brake-line-Located-in-backroom-fixture/_/N-268j?itemIdentifier=85328_0_0_

 

 

I'm not ready to re-line all the way back if I don't have to.  I want to be safe though and don't want my brakes failing.

 

EDIT:  Updated the link to the correct double flare (not bubble flare) line that would mate properly to the master cylinder ports.

 

The lines at the parts store, will not be "pre-fitted" or "pre-bent". They will be just like that picture in that they are a straight tube that needs to be bent.  If you don't mind bending tubing (pretty easy after your first few tries) then give it a go.  There are times you can't find tubing in the correct length, so you have to cut the tubing and re-flare the end.  That's when things get tricky if you don't have a decent flaring tool.  If your flare isn't right-on, then you will get leaks.....

 

So unless you absolutely need to replace the tubing nuts, or you want to get experience bending and possibly flaring tubing, then this might be a good time to leave well enough alone.  As long as your splices don't leak, they will be fine.

[c4ck4]

 

So unless you absolutely need to replace the tubing nuts, or you want to get experience bending and possibly flaring tubing, then this might be a good time to leave well enough alone.  As long as your splices don't leak, they will be fine.

 

Oh I'm trying to do as little as I can while still making it safe to drive and reliable enough.  The problem is that I can't get the old nut off the line on the master cylinder, so I'm already in it.  I'm trying to fix it the easiest workable way for sure.

 

Every simple project always has a way of being way more complicated and getting away from you though....

[c4ck4]

If the fit and finish looks okay I might try picking up one of these tomorrow to help with the bending.  It never hurts to have another useful tool around eh?
 

http://www.harborfreight.com/tube-bending-pliers-95782.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eighth-inch-to-1-4-quarter-inch-tube-bender-94571.html

 

[KlassicMotion]

I have something similar to both of the ones your looking at plus three more... You will have to see what you like best.  Something like this is what works best for me:

http://www.alltradetools.com/catalog/general-purpose/262-648484-tubing-bender.htm

For flaring, I have something like this:

It gets the job done... most of the time...  For a good kit (my next tool purchase), your looking at $200 plus.

 

 

 

This one looks cool:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1NW0F95390

[GRpufnstuf]

Parkrose Hardware has a great selection of brake line lengths cheap.

Just be sure you sort out the American/European/Japanese lines. The labels are all very similar and the employees don't sort them right.

 

 

Parkrose Hardware

10625 NE Sandy Blvd,

Portland, OR

(503) 256-3103

.

 

I re-did my 66 F250 front to back and only had to mod one brake line. The rest I was able to (carefully) bend by hand.

 

I got my soft lines at Oil Filter Service in SE. They can make any soft line you want but aren't the cheap route. I was in a hurry and wanted stainless so they were the spot for me.

 

Good luck!

[K_trip]

- removed -

[c4ck4]

I went with this one for $7.49 with coupon:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eighth-inch-to-1-4-quarter-inch-tube-bender-94571.html

 

 

Pretty good deal, worked just fine.  Along with a bunch of very careful shallow angle hand bends I got the lines to line up fine.  Like a dummy though I forgot to check which line went where after I removed the old master.  So now I need to carefully examine the diagram in the repair manual.  Hopefully I can get it bled today and drive it soon!

[KlassicMotion]

 Like a dummy though I forgot to check which line went where after I removed the old master.  So now I need to carefully examine the diagram in the repair manual.  Hopefully I can get it bled today and drive it soon!

 

The pictures you posted; looks like you can almost tell from them.

[c4ck4]

Okay, got the brakes bled finally today, took it for a short drive less than 5min and now it pulls slightly the other way.  Probably just a small adjustment will fix it.

 

However....when I was bleeding the NLSV I noticed a couple lines that seemed to be pinched pretty hard.  I don't know how they could get pinched like that, there is a flat spot almost an inch long on both of them, it almost looks intentional, ideas?  I can probably just replace those two lines and rebleed everything, but its annoying I didn't see them till I was totally done of course.

 

Other items of note:

 

Next on my list is the overheating problem, after my short less than 5min drive the radiator and hose were way too hot to touch, while the valve cover (for example) still felt fine.  In other vehicles I've had it usually takes longer than one mile down the road to get that hot.  Is that useful info or is that normal?

 

I still need to check the fuel stop solenoid to see if it's functioning because of the dieseling behavior and....

 

It sat for a couple weeks while I was doing the brakes and all the fuel seems to have run out of the pump, fuel filter, lines etc.  Is that normal when not driving every day?  Is there something to prevent flow back?  I couldn't get it started even after a lot of cranking, until I disconnected the rubber fuel line and stuck it in a jar of gas to prime the pump and get it going.  After I hooked the fuel lines back up it sputtered and took a while to get good fuel flow and a good idle going.

 

Also, I don't have a lot of experience driving this particular vehicle, but it felt like the carb was still choking a little bit during my drive.  Maybe it wasn't fully warmed up, but if that's the case why was the radiator and hose so hot already?  I think it's an electronic choke on this carb, but I'm not sure how to diagnose to see if it's opening all the way or not.

[c4ck4]

Oh, one more thing.  Often when I'm trying to start instead of cranking I'll just get a small click and then nothing.  I'll have to reset the key and try again several times before cranking begins.  I'm not very experienced as a mechanic, but I'm thinking that might mean a bad starter relay switch?  Or starter solenoid?

[KlassicMotion]

Oh, one more thing.  Often when I'm trying to start instead of cranking I'll just get a small click and then nothing.  I'll have to reset the key and try again several times before cranking begins.  I'm not very experienced as a mechanic, but I'm thinking that might mean a bad starter relay switch?  Or starter solenoid?

 

Mine just started doing this today...  I tightened the battery cables, and tightened the connection on the wire to the starter...  Seemed to work for me.