Daily Hillclimb Build (s30)

[drummingpariah]

It's saturday, 42 working days remain before April. I made some progress on getting rid of the hideous Corvette/Trailer tail lights, by cutting out a LOT of body filler and some very strange metalwork.

 

There's a lot of rust to clean up on the panel that I'm keeping, but I'm not sure how much I care about it. Phosphoric acid, time, and then some POR15 will keep it from getting worse, and that's really all I care about. The rear end of these cars is never sealed anyway, so I'm not going to lose sleep over some holes in the sheet metal.

 

Powertrain

My friend Dave just dropped off his engine hoist, so this is the last time the l28et gets to live in the engine bay. Everything's already disconnected, I'm just waiting 'till I make a chassis cradle to be able to wheel the chassis out from under the engine, once it's up on the hoist.

 

 

Dave also dropped off a spare turboII transmission that had been lying around. I still need a bellhousing, but this will help out a lot with test fitting everything.

 

There's still some time to make progress today, so I'll do my best to have another update at the end of the day.

[carterb]

Quite an undertaking!

Having a goal/due date is good motivation.  Keep it up!

--carter

[drummingpariah]

No rest for the wicked!

 

Note to self (and I've noted this before):
 

 

Never pull an engine alone again.

[Lockleaf]

Is that transmission gold....

[drummingpariah]

It's DEI Gold reflective wrap, highly recommended. The exhaust for the engine I'm using ranges between 1800F and 2200F at full tilt, and it sits right next to that side of the transmission. Reflecting whatever heat possible (in this case, DEI reflects infrared very well) is a high priority, so while that wrap is a bit pricey, it's critical to keep the transmission at operating temperature. I may also end up adding an oil cooler for that transmission ... I really don't like rebuilding them.

[Lockleaf]

Sure, just make bling sound all reasonable and awesome. I try to be obnoxious and you just poke awesome racecar holes in it.

 

Very cool. Thanks for the info.

[drummingpariah]

Not much stays on my car without a GOOD reason behind it. I keep finding that a lack of power is easy to solve, but excess weight is impossible to overcome. No matter how much power and awesome suspension and aerodynamics you have, a heavy car is still heavy. Excess weight requires stronger parts to support all that weight (which causes more weight), decreases handling across the board, reduces fuel economy drastically, and reduces reliability. The goal for this daily driver is 1600lbs, plus cage (roughly 1800lbs all told). The suspension modifications may increase that, but that's a problem I can solve next season.

[datzenmike]

 

 

 

 

 

I quickly buzzed through this thread, but couldn't find any mention of the differential ratio. The video above (seems) somewhat lackluster in the rev it up department. Gear changes are followed by a boggy climb to the next gear change. Third gear is barely used at all. I realize that the hill is steeper than the camera allows it to show but couldn't the gearing be such that you could use some of 4th? (again I realize that the extra shifts also eat up time) First would be only for a fast take off from a stop and unlikely used on tight turns, but it would spool the turbo faster.. Second and third for most of the rest of the climb and forth for the fastest speeds. A lower gear would also spin the turbo up sooner at all speeds and gears.

 

I just recently swapped a 4.11 into my old 710 and the difference is simply the most amazing improvement in torque and power. Best of all it doesn't add stress to the engine. Acceleration in every gear is dramatic and often a downshift is not needed. 

 

Love what you're doing.

[drummingpariah]

I quickly buzzed through this thread, but couldn't find any mention of the differential ratio. The video above (seems) somewhat lackluster in the rev it up department. Gear changes are followed by a boggy climb to the next gear change. Third gear is barely used at all. I realize that the hill is steeper than the camera allows it to show but couldn't the gearing be such that you could use some of 4th? (again I realize that the extra shifts also eat up time) First would be only for a fast take off from a stop and unlikely used on tight turns, but it would spool the turbo faster.. Second and third for most of the rest of the climb and forth for the fastest speeds. A lower gear would also spin the turbo up sooner at all speeds and gears.

 

I just recently swapped a 4.11 into my old 710 and the difference is simply the most amazing improvement in torque and power. Best of all it doesn't add stress to the engine. Acceleration in every gear is dramatic and often a downshift is not needed. 

 

Love what you're doing.

Thanks man, it's been quite a trip so far! I assume you didn't catch that that video is my Miata, which is a 1.6 that makes a whopping 87whp. It's a 4.3:1 differential ratio, but the tires are 23.9" diameter. As compared to the OEM wheel/tire combination (14x5.5 and 185/60R14) I'm looking at around 5lbs extra on every corner, additional rolling resistance, and ~5% taller gearing because of the tires. Combine all that with a severely lackluster engine, put it on a ~12-degree incline, and you're seeing a purely-momentum car.

 

With all that in mind, I've never had this car up to 4th at a hillclimb event. I've set redline to 7250 (the head design means that over 7000 or so, it stops making more power), which means at the top of each gear I end up doing:

1st: 38mph

2nd: 63mph

3rd: 90mph

4th: 120mph

5th: 147mph

 

We run a radar gun at some hills, and the fastest I've been clocked was at Mt Okemo, doing 76mph. So, with all that in mind ... second gear is 'home' on most of these hills. 

 

Datsun

Back to what this thread is really about ... I'm using a stock s13 240sx rear end currently. That's a 4.083:1 rear end, and the turboII transmission is perfectly suited to my needs. The best tire options are all in 17", so I'm looking at 245/35R17 or thereabouts, which gives me roughly the same overall diameter as the Miata currently has. I'm setting redline to 7k in the rotary (the torque curve is absolutely beautiful, and I don't see any reason to push any mechanical limits whatsoever), which calculates out to:

 

1st: 35mph

2nd: 60mph

3rd: 88mph

4th: 122mph

5th: 160mph

 

I'll be making ~200whp|~200ft/lbs (~150% increase), and should be around 200lbs (~10%) lighter, and I hope to end up around 9lb:1hp by the end of the 2016 season (lower ratios are generally faster). Compared to an OEM 280z, making around 140whp (being generous) with a curb weight of 2425lbs, that would be around 17lb:1hp. That's just to give a point of reference, really. These ratios should be 'acceptable'. I should be able to get to around 110 or so with the new combination, but this all adds up to be about perfect for the street.

 

23" Diameter tires

If I'm going to change ANYTHING about this setup, it'll be the race wheel size. If I could get away with 13" wheels clearing the brakes, I could run some 255/40ZR13 autocross tires, or I could run 275/35ZR15 autocross tires if that doesn't work. They're both the same diameter, which comes out to:

1st: 34mph

2nd: 58mph

3rd: 84mph

4th: 117mph

5th: 154mph

 

Diff Gearing

Finally, there is a conceivable differential swap for a 4.6 out of an xterra. I'm not crazy about that idea, honestly ... but with those same 275/35ZR15 r7 tires, I'd have:

1st: 30mph

2nd: 52mph

3rd: 75mph

4th: 104mph

5th: 137mph

 

That would be roughly perfect, but I'd be rowing between 2nd and 5th the whole way up the hill. All of the hills are kind of rough, with crests and moss and wet patches in the road ... so I'd much rather avoid upsetting the car even more by shifting all over the place. Let's look at a few other cars on the same hill.

 

Here's Kevin running up the same course the year before.

 

He launches in 2nd, shifts to 3rd, and ... the next time he shifts he's parking.

 

Paul is even faster (he just broke the hill record, actually), but tries to conserve shifts as much as possible. 7 shifts total.

 

You can see how much harder Sherman works on the same hill, with his GSXR (but I guess I'm limited to two videos per post?)

 

He's still a solid 15 seconds faster than I am, but he's really working at it.

 

Kevin: 1 shift 

Paul: 7 shifts (makes the fastest run on that hill ever look like another day at the office)

Sherman: 14 shifts (and he's driving the hell out of that thing, really watch his hands!)

[drummingpariah]

The car saw some sun today, for a little while.

 

Dave came up, we built a small caster frame, tossed it into his trailer, and took it out to Vermont with Joey Kale. I hope to get it back sometime before the holidays, with a sizeable chunk of my budget for 2016 missing. I also hope that it'll have the roll cage I've been planning out for almost two years.

[mttam510]

Coming soon, along with hats (and maybe more). We're still trying to decide what sizes to print. Keep an eye on the site for updates, we've got a lot of content in the pipeline right now.

 

It's not a Miata forum, so I was holding off on throwing updates all over the place. The Datsun has been sitting since my last post, and prepping the Miata has been priority #1.

 

Laurie and I hammered it out this weekend, with nothing more than a couple angle grinders and her TIG welder (and welding skills).

 

I'm getting my tires, alignment, inspection, sa2010 helmet, and installing the fire extinguisher tomorrow. I might even make time to paint the lol bar. The weather is looking pretty wet for the weekend, and I'm starting to think the Kumho XS tires I ordered aren't going to be the best option. I'll still get up there and have fun, though!

 

All my hammock camping equipment is getting packed tonight so I'll have somewhere dry to sleep during the event, and I'm studying the shit out of previous seasons' race footage and the course maps:

 

Okemo is right around the corner (June 6) as well, and I'm not sure I'll have the money to finish the Datsun for it or if I'll have to pull the Miata up there too.

you friend has a nice autograph (her welds look great)!

[drummingpariah]

She's the best fabricator I know. She can always find something to complain about with her work, though.

[drummingpariah]

39 working days remaining.

 

I'd really like to cut down on unknowns between now and Ascutney 1, and the sooner I have this driving around, the sooner I can sort out the little problems I'll inevitably face. I'd love to dig up a powerplant that is already running/driving, and only requires mechanical installation and power/ground to the ECU.

 

Powerplant Option 1: Mass Option

Dave recommended a local shop that he's worked with in the past. High praise from someone whose opinion I hold in high regard. I'd like to work with him, if we can sort out a deal that makes sense for both of us. We've been playing phone tag for a week now, but should be able to sort out options this week. I like that it's local, and it starts a relationship with someone who can keep me out of the weeds if I decide I want to make real power sometime.

 

Powerplant Option 2: Vermont Option (?)

While at Joey's shop, he mentioned that Jason might have a turbo rotary or two available right down the street from him. This is local to Joey, which COULD mean I could just have him make engine/transmission mounts for me (that would be superb). I just called today and left a voicemail, and I'll just keep trying until I get through.

 

Powerplant Option 3: Craigslist

I have the option to buy a turboII engine/transmission from a local, and he's willing to drop it off. I don't have any real free time to accept it, and kind of want to see how the other options turn out first. This is a pretty certain option, but I can't do anything with it 'till next weekend.

 

Powerplant Option 4: Importer

There are plenty of engine importers. I can get a complete "40k mile" swap for around $1800 shipped. That isn't a bad option, all things considered. At least then I know I have everything I need, from front to rear. All those little things add up pretty quickly when you need to populate everything at once.

 

Powerplant Option 5: Rebuild/Refresh

If all else fails, I can rebuild the 4port that I have in the engine room. I'd need a bellhousing, clutch/flywheel, fuel system, and megasquirt wiring harness though, so it's a bit more of an investment than I'd like to put in. I'd prefer to just use that as a spare parts donor. A rebuild will cost around $1200 and precious time, then all the do-dads will be another $500 or so.

 

While I wait to sort out my options further, I have the whole garage bay to play in. I think it's time to revisit the trailer plan, and specialize it a bit. Logistics are critical to a successful event. I need to be able to show up to an event, and focus on the basics:

• Detach the trailer
• Swap wheels
• Pass tech inspection
• Set up camp
• Cook food
• Relax and prepare for morning

I forgot to bring something important to nearly every event in 2015, and spent a lot of time rummaging around through packs and bins trying to figure out if I even HAD "thing XYZ." I misplaced my 19mm impact socket for one event, and even forgot my jack for another. My rear roof bolts rattled loose on two hills, and I never had enough replacement bolts to keep them attached. All of those seemingly minor things eat up time and cause stress, breaking up the 'groove' of a good clean race event. Sorting out the s30 should be my only cause of stress in 2016, I can't be mucking about trying to figure out where my rivet gun went or if I even brought it.

 

That's all for now. Hopefully I'll have another update ready for this weekend.

[drummingpariah]

No build updates, but I've been working on a few other things while the car's up at the chassis shop.

 

do you produce this image as a sticker? 

 

I just placed an order of these on clear vinyl, but with white instead of black lines (black really doesn't work on windows). I'll start selling them for $2 shipped, and if you're interested in any of the stickers, shoot me an email at jesse@driven-daily.com so I can let you know when they're available for sale. If turnaround is anything like last time, I should have them in mid-December.

 

Here's the design for the new sticker (shown with a grey background)

 

These are the same printing process with the other design, intended for light backgrounds. They're the same price.

 

If you want more than one design, I'm going to combine shipping, but still have to work out what that amounts to.

[drummingpariah]

Now that the l28et is out, I can start getting the new powerplant ready to go in.

 

 

 

[drummingpariah]

How to build a Datsun race car:

 

Step 1: Deliver to a Subaru fabricator.

Step 2: Wait patiently.

 

It may not look like much yet, but there's a reason for that. Joey just lost his employee, and the time he spent on this was getting rid of the sections I was scared to cut out, removing the windshield (these are pretty thick/heavy windshields, for being as small as they are), then re-aligning and reinforcing suspension pickup points.

[drummingpariah]

When Joey gets to 'go time' he really drops the hammer. There are a few really fantastic things going on here, even though it isn't even close to finished. The sill bars are actually going INSIDE the rockers, and the seat pickups will be connected directly to the cage. I have to thrash another project together in short order, but then I'll bring the engine/transmission up to have everything lined up and get a driveshaft made. It's finally hit the point where it's no longer 'coming apart' and is starting to 'come together'. I'm extremely pleased so far.

 

We're relying on good geometry and design for safety, rather than using big thick materials. Almost all of this is 1.5" .095 DOM

 

Shooting to have everything together and street legal by April, still. I'd say it's on track at this point.

[drummingpariah]

A little bit of a sidetrack, but I finally have the stickers I've spent far too long designing and ordering tests of, to find just the right supplier. Support the project (and a few other projects) and order some! I'm looking forward to seeing these on some other peoples' daily drivers.

https://www.facebook.com/drivendaily.official/shop

 

[maltese]

I don't facebook. How else can I order them?

[Lockleaf]

There are a LOT of guys on here who don't use FB. I would suggest posting a classified on here and linking to it in this thread so more guys can order from you.

[drummingpariah]

I don't facebook. How else can I order them?

Working on that. Facebook seemed like an easy way to test it initially, but (like everything else with Facebook) the implementation leaves much to be desired. I'd like to have a better buying solution this weekend, just stand by!

[maltese]

PM me your Paypal, when you're ready. :thumbup:

[drummingpariah]

STICKERS
Because Facebook is so godawful, I'm only offering stickers through Patreon right now (https://www.patreon.com/drivendaily). I know it isn't a typical 'pay for stickers, get stickers in the mail' kind of offer, but it's much more direct. The goal is for Driven Daily to make videos, not to sell swag. Stickers and whatever we end up making in the future are just bonus items for supporting us, not stuff to make money on.

UPDATE
Slow and steady is ready for the first race.
 
Up in Vermont, Joey added a little bit more material to keep the trees and rocks outside of the car. The interesting design point here is that each tube in the door bar is continuous, which is more consistent/predictable in failure (CRASH!) than a more traditional single-continuous door bar would be.
 
Most older-style door bars have one continuous tube that runs from the driver's shoulder to the driver's shin-area. That's excellent, but the reinforcement bar isn't continuous, it's two halves of a tube coped to fit the single continuous bar. They tend to break at the welds (rather than bending and deforming) and the sharp edges make their way through the passenger cabin. It's a great deal better than nothing, but the tests (and in-person crashes) I've seen overwhelmingly support double continuous bars. I'll still want a vertical reinforcement bar that connects the driver's knee-area to the top-of-the-windshield area for some rollover protection.


 
A little suspension reinforcement in the front always helps too.


 
I'm also focused on logistics for this season. The new trailer design is in the works, but I'm going to wait to update on that 'till I have something physical to show. I'm pretty sure the HANS is getting replaced with a different restraint system. HANS is fine for most forms of racing where a head-on collision is likely, but hillclimbs are just as likely to put you on your roof ... backwards ... 8 feet in the air in a tree (I've seen that happen twice in one season). I really want to get something that secures the head/helmet in side-on impacts as well, and I'm considering a containment seat if I can find something I like at a decent price. The sides need to be removable for daily driving, which is a bit of a problem.

 
If I build this turbo motor the way I've been planning to, it looks like I'll be in SP2 for 2016, then SP4 for 2017 (with water/meth injection). I still need to source the wheel/tire combination I'll be racing with, but that's definitely something I can put off for awhile. More updates to come as soon as I have my CRX back together and can take a drive up to Vermont to see the car in person.

[drummingpariah]

I discarded unwanted accessories

 

Loaded the 13b turboII

 

And dropped it off in Vermont

 

I also picked up a Sparco containment seat and a NecksGen head/neck restraint, but no photos of that (sorry!)

[drummingpariah]

Driver's seat