Bomber Green '73 620

[KlassicMotion]

So on the vacuum lines I used this chart:

 

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun620/Datsun620Index/Engine%28L16%29/EmissionControlDevice/tabid/2381/Default.aspx

[]2eDeYe]

Wiring diagram.

 

http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/data/dat620-1973.pdf

 

There are more of them here 

 

http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/620tech.htm

 

Best bet is to trace the wires to see where they go.

 

Looks like your ballast resistor has been bypassed which would indicate the truck has a swapped in electronic ignition.

 

The solenoid looks to be part of the vacuum choke system or something. Need some further away pictures to see what is going on.

 

 

The wiring diagram should help, the systems on these trucks are fairly simple with a roadmap :)

 

 

 

[KlassicMotion]

^^ Thanks.  I was up late last night and printed out that wiring diagram.  It does look like the ballast has been bypassed, but it still has the original dual point distributor!?  The solenoid does go to the B.C.D.D.  I've got that system in order now, but I'm going to use the wiring diagram to make sure the proper wires are hooked up to it.

 

It always amazes what some previous owners will do to the wiring of a vehicle.  Most of the time, it seems they go to so much more work to "fix" a problem the wrong way, then it would have, if they just knew what they were doing.

[KlassicMotion]

Reference for the next person with my question; here is what the fuel vapor lines should look like:

 

[Eagle_Adam]

but there is a weber missing from the pic.... 

[KlassicMotion]

but there is a weber missing from the pic.... 

 

I know, right!  If the carb on it wasn't remanned, I'd probably swap it out.  But by not spending my money on that carb, I can buy more parts from you!  Did you happen to get my shopping list? Or, should I send you another copy?

 

B&R Autowrecking in OR, screwed me on the wiper transmission rods, so I'm going to need to ad those to my shopping list.  They won't send the wiper rods, but they still charged me the extra shipping for them.  They also didn't send me the tail light surround with the tail light.  When I called them, they just gave me the run-around.  I'm not sure it's worth pursuing anymore with them.  I think I will just accept my loss and move on.

[Eagle_Adam]

ive never heard of a yard shipping part, send me ur list again i dont remember seeing it. 

 

Ur glass is still at my place i plan on sending it tomorrow or Friday so if i can fit more in the box i will 

[KlassicMotion]

ive never heard of a yard shipping part,

 

Well, I saw the truck listed on eBay.  So I checked out their website and they have a full service website with parts listed and shipping estimates.... When I made that order, I actually called in, to make sure I got specific parts (that didn't help).  I've left my salesperson two messages about my order, but he's never returned my call.... Oh well.

[KlassicMotion]

Yup, I'm horrible about taking pics or keeping updates.  I have been working on the truck in my spare time.

 

First off I need to thank PDX Matt, Eagle_Adam, 420n620, and cdub42 for hooking me up with the parts my truck needs.

 

So first up, I was working on my electricals.  I've gotten the engine bay sorted. It turns out the wires on the left are ground wires.  I don't know why someone looped them together, but one is suppose to go to the ground at the voltage regulator, and the other now goes to the ground at the block.  Sometimes I wonder about Previous owners :no:

 

 

Next was under the dash.  The truck obviously had a wire in the harness melted.  I couldn't tell how much damage there was, so I pulled the harness down, unwrapped it, and got to work.  When I got the truck, the ignition was rigged with a toggle switch and push button start instead of the keyed ignition.  I pulled that mess out, plugged the keyed switch back in.  There were actually multiple wires that got fried.  The black/white wire from the ignition, and a couple from the fuse block.  I applied some liquid tape to the wires that were decent, and I replaced wires that were bad.  The Black/White wire from the ignition was totally gone, so I had to add that back in. Got it re-wrapped and tucked back under the dash.

 

 

 

Next I addressed the exhaust leak.  The flange collector that bolts to the bottom of the manifold was rusted out at the bottom pinch weld, and one of the studs holding it to the manifold was broken.  So first I hammered over the one side of the pinch weld that was left on the flange, and then I goobered some weld on.  It works for now, so we'll see how long it lasts.  Next I had to remove the mani and repair the studs.  They faught back, but I conquered them.  The center stud in the head faught back too so I ended up replacing it too. I cleaned and "trued" the manifold mating surface using a low buck technique my mashine shop taught me.  Use a nice big honing stone from the hardware store.  The Stone is machined flat surface, so as long as you take care fo the stone, it should stay flat....  A couple hours work, and I got that all put back together!

 

 

So I bolted the manifold back on and realized I for got about the coolant hose....

Alright, so I went to pull the steel line off, and found the stud and nut at the timing cover plate on the front of the engine was stripped and the nut was just turning in place.  So I performed another stud removal operation.  I didn't have a gasket to put back on, but I had some sheet material and made a new gasket.

 

[KlassicMotion]

The radiator was hanging in place with one bolt.  And it had the original hoses.  It looked questionable, but this is a low-buck build so I have to try it.  I cleaned it up (blue and orange permatex strands came out of the inside of it), straightened out the hose inlet, and painted it up. I ordered some new upper and lower hoses for the "'73 620".  As I waited for those to arrive,  I went to re-install the radiator and that's when I noticed it was wider than the stock holes.  So I bolted in the drive's side, and drilled a new top hole on the passenger side, and because I couldn't get to the back side of the lower hole, I just put a self tapping screw in that.  Bolted in solid now.  My hoses came in and I went to put them on.... The top was curved way different than what was there, or what would work, so I tried the lower hose, and found that '73 620 lower hose attaches straight into the radiator, where this radiator has almost a 90* angled outlet...  This made me wonder, so I went over to the 510, measured the radiator, measured the hose.... Yup, the 620 has a 510 radiator in it...  So back to the parts store, ordered up some '71 510 hoses, and the next day, I had new hoses on.  Lastly, I filled it with radiator flush and plan to run it a while then swap coolant in.

 

 

 

Sadly, when I drove the truck, that radiator was leaking.  So I called up my Dad and had him pull the original radiator, that was off my 510, out of my storage box and send it to me.  I'm not sure if its any good, but for $35 in shipping fees, it's worth a try before I spend $200 on a new unit.

 

 

Next up was a valve adjustment.  Everything went well, but I found a lot of slop in the timing chain...  It seems to be runnning well right now, so I will think about a new timing set later down the road.  And, since the cover was off, I decided to clean it and paint it up.

 

I also took banzai510's advice and swapped the points wires around, set the points, and re-timed the engine.

 

 

 

Also, new battery with new cables....  I see that I still need to solder on the fusable link off the positive side, and get rid of that crimped connector for the oil sending unit...

And the engine bay needs a good scrubbing and wash.

 

 

Next I had a broken hood hing mount, so I cleaned and straightend up the metal, and again I just goobered on some weld.  Looks like it should hold.  Unfortunately, on the other side, the bolt was broken off in the captive nut.  There isn't any good way to extract that bolt without cutting off the mount, or taking the fender off.  So I cut off the nut and plan to put in, maybe a wavy washer, but just a regular bolt and locking nut on the out side.

 

[KlassicMotion]

I've been Rustolium bombing the truck in my spare time. It's mostly finished, I just have some areas on the driver door to finish. The drive's window was busted out, and had some plastic taped over it. I still have to remove the sticky from the tape, scuff and paint. I bought some Herculiner for bed. I've never used the stuff, so I thougth I test it out on this truck.

I bought some of those cheap front side marker lights off eBay from Thailand... Yeah, there is no rubber gasket between the lens and the chrome base... Oh well, I will make a gasket for them.  ***Edit, those side marker lights are complete junk.  I'm scrapping them.  I've got some spare 510 markers on the shelf, I will see how they look.***




The bumper was painted body color, so I stripped it to find a rather nice looking bumper!? :confused: I'm guessing the P.O. didn't know how to mask it off and just painted over it.
You can also see the grill installed here.




I removed the big heavy bumper... I have some ideas to customize it and put it back on, but we'll see. The License plate frame is rough, but I will spend some time on it and see what I get. The taillights still need attention too...




I've got a set of these Chevy steelies 16x6.5 but the center bore is 5/8 too small.  I will have to look further into fitting these on....

[red76datsun]

I must be late to this party! Awesome build. You can bore out the center. Alot of guys do that with titans. There's a video on YouTube someone will post, I just can't on my phone.

[KlassicMotion]

Well after looking at the stock steelies on the truck, they don't look like they are hub centric wheels....  If that's the case, then I can bore out the centers of the Chevy wheels, and not have to be too precise...

[KlassicMotion]

This is the box Adam sent me with parts in it:

 

620 parts-  $50

Shipping to Alaska-  $95

Hours of fun for a 2 yr old-  Priceless

 

His PJ's were filled with packing peanuts!

 

 

 

[Eagle_Adam]

classic photo man!!!! happy i could help 

[KlassicMotion]

I finally got the 1996 Ranger seats installed.  For the most part they just "bolt-in".....  I say that for two reasons;  One, they sit high for me.  If the truck had a headliner, my head would rub it, as I am 5'9"ish.  My wife on the other hand is 5' and she loves the height of the seats, as it's the first vehicle she can see over the steering wheel in!!  Since it will be her driver, great!  I looked at modifying the mounts on the seats, and it would be pretty easy to cut and bend the mounts that are there and lower the seat.. 2" cleanly, and 3" if you had to.  Because the seat backs, are so thick, you do lose some leg room, but for short trips around town, these will work well.  I plan to buy some retractable 3 point seat belts that buckle right in to the seats after winter (when we start driving it).

 

Out with the old... They were just sitting on the floor without being mounted.  To properly mount them, I'd have to get creative.  Plus they had a slightly offensive odor.

 

 

 

Here is the bottom of the Ranger seats.

 

 

 

Four holes drilled.

 

 

 

For the front mounts, I wanted a little extra metal on the bottom side of the seat support to act as a washer to help secure them down.  The flat bar I used is nothing special, I just went to Lowes and picked up two sticks of thier 3' long, 1" wide, 12 gauge flat bar. Plus on the driver's side, you will see, the seat support on the floor doesn't go straight across, so I had to bolt the seat directly on to the extra metal bar.  I could have welded the bar on, but for one, I used galvanized metal, and two, since I don't like to make mods that can't easily be un-done, I was able to just use a bolt hole that was already there to secure the flat bar onto the seat support.

 

 

 

The driver's side mounts went down without any shims.  The passenger's side needed a shim on the inside rear, and outside front.  The inside rear shim, I just used a big honking washer, and the fronts, I cut some of the same flat bar into 4" strips and drilled a hole (I could have used 2.5" strips, instead, but I already had these cut).  I also wanted some hurky washers for the underside of the car for the rear mounts (I was looking for some seat belt mount washers..).  I did some digging through my hardware collection and found the left over TC rod washers that came with the new TC rod bushings for my 510.  They worked perfect.  I used 3/8" grade 8 bolts on all four corners.

 

Driver's side:

 

 

 

Passenger side:

 

[/url]

 

 

I still need to clean the upholstery, but here they are Installed:

 

[Eagle_Adam]

not too shabby :D 

[Farmer]

Fitment Looks real clean.

[KlassicMotion]

Thanks.

 

I installed the driver's door glass I bought from PDX Matt, and found the reason why it was borken.... the window regulator is shot.  I'm sure someone slammed the door shut and the glass fell down and shattered  :(   Luckily I found that out before I slammed the door shut!

 

Only having 2-3 hours to work on this per day, really sucks....  I need a babysitter!

[Eagle_Adam]

tac weld the regulater for now......

[KlassicMotion]

I haven't even looked at it yet.  I assume when you say to tack weld it, it will be obvious what your reffering to....  Possibly tack weld it in the up position?  I will see if I can get time to look at it today.

[Eagle_Adam]

ya, in the up position, not sure it will be obvious. Just a thought 

[KlassicMotion]

Cool

[KlassicMotion]

For starters today, I took my drabby turn signals, hit the inside with a wire bush then I shot some chrome spray paint on them.  That should brighten up the turn signals for now.

 

[KlassicMotion]

Next I took a look at my wheels.  First off, I was relieved to find the stock Datusn wheels are lug-centric, so all I need to do to my new wheels is bore out the center hole.....

 

I was looking them over to find which four (of the eight I bought), that I wanted to use....

 

 

 

As it turns out, even though they all look the same...... They have different offsets!!  Four of them have 5 7/8" offset, three of them have 5 3/4" offset and one of them has 5 5/8" offset... WTF?  Well that made my choice of which one to use easy, but that also means I don't have a set of steelies for my Colorado to run snow tires on...

 

Anyways;  I made a template from the center bore of the Datsun wheels and traced it onto the center bore of the new wheels:

 

 

 

Then I just happened to turn the wheel over and low and behold, my template fits perfectly in the center of the stamped section:

 

 

 

So I will be cutting these from the back side since there is a perfect line to follow. 

 

First I tried my body saw..... It took forever to get a 1/8" cut... Next I tried the grinder, but I can't get it all the way in the bore, so it ground the metal down on a bevel, and it made a hell of a mess (of course).  Next I tried this carbide bit in my die grinder.... ehh, it worked ok, better in conjunction with the ground down metal... I thought of my torch, but I don't think I want that much heat on the mating surface of my wheel.  Unless there are other suggestions, I think I will take my wheels out into the yard tomorrow (when there is light, and no sound ordnance) and grind down what I can, then use the die grinder to finish it off....