Bomber Green '73 620

[KlassicMotion]

This is how this story starts out:  -as transcribed from "Post Craigslist ads here..."

 

 

The price is right, but I don't have the room for it :crying:

 

http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/4017556458.html

 

Its your sworn duty as one of the two Datsuners in AK to buy and save that truck. You will make room for it... 

 

I will see what the Wife says!!! dunt dunt dah....

 

So I told my wife about it..... She decided instead of spending $1100 on studded snows for her WRX, she should have a 620 beater....

 

This truck is worse off than I expected, but... I bought it for $200.   I figured, if it costs too much to get back on the road, I'd use the A87 head on my L20B and part the rest out.....

 

So, I'm looking for 620 door glass, driver's side locking mechanism (not sure what part yet), some wiper mechanism parts, and a bunch of misc.  After I pick it up tomorrow, I will have a better idea of what I need.

 

I was in such a hurry to get my 510 running before I moved, that I failed to start a build thread, or take progression pictures.  So let's start this one right regardless of whether it gets back on the road or parted out.  Here's the beginning pics:

 

 

Nice plexiglass two piece rear window held together with electrical tape

 

Nice blue door panel.  I'm going to use it as template for some new one, then post it for sale.

 

The P.O. said the sending unit went out of the old tank, so he pulled the whole tank, threw the sending unit away and put this lovely thing in the back.  I have the old, tank, but it started to rust inside... We'll see what happens with it.

 

My wife had the day off, so I snuck out to the junkyard to look for a bench seat.... Not one bench seat in the junkyard.  But these caught my eye.  I picked them up for now.  We'll see if we stick with them or not.

 

My wife has been scouring Ratsun and Google for ideas for the build.  She decided on Flat Cammo Green with red wheels. I got one fender spray bombed before the rain drizzle started.

[KlassicMotion]

Thanks to RATDAT3 for the tip that PDX Matt was selling a pair of doors.  Matt pulled a driver's door glass and driver's door latch mechanism for me.  We're just working on getting the glass shipped to Alaska for less than $200!  Shipping big stuff up here sucks....  Thanks Matt for your help.

 

The local glass shop said the only new driver's glass they could get would cost $125 + $200 shipping!!

[Tristin]

Huzzah! Im glad you snagged this. Glad I pushed you to take another look at it B)

 

 

 

I just figured since its just your and Jason up there, you were obligated to make room for it so it didnt go to waste. 

[thatguy]

Love the "bomber green" although it looks awfully "blue" to me.

[Radim]

Your grill is bending the wrong way. D:

Can't wait to see updates!

[KlassicMotion]

I see dave71 is up in Faribanks with a 521.  I should try to contact him sometime.  One more project just makes the rush to get things done before winter hits that much more frantic!

[KlassicMotion]

Love the "bomber green" although it looks awfully "blue" to me.

 

It's just day two... Give me a break!  I was projecting the title to reflect the possible future!

[KlassicMotion]

Your grill is bending the wrong way. D:

 

Can't wait to see updates!

 

Yeah, I pulled it off to see if my "Eastwoods Hot Stapler" will work.  I've had great success on other automotive plastic parts.

 

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-hot-stapler-plastic-repair-system.html

[KlassicMotion]

Here's our shopping list:

 

side mirrors

rear glass and seal ( I think my local glass shop can handle a piece of flat glass)

rear side marker lights

wiper arms

wiper pivots

front valance

fuel tank sending unit

possibly a right rear tail light unit

a hood

Hood release cable

hood latch pin

ash tray

ash tray mount

window crank handle

heater control knobs

front side marker lights

turn signals

Door sill plate

 

......... Hmmm probably more to come......

[KlassicMotion]

So I was searching for how to lower the front.  It looks like I have to re-index the torsion rod.  I see there are two ways of doing this.  Can anyone tell me if one way is better than the other?

 

I noticed while under the truck that the adjusters at the ends of the torsion rods were adjusted differently.  I'm assuming that means one torsion rod is more worn than the other? or that there is an issue somewhere?

 

Once lowered, is there a need for a different shocks or bump stops?

 

I will continue reading other threads, but just in case someone wants to give me a lesson right here, please do!

[KlassicMotion]

Huzzah! Im glad you snagged this. Glad I pushed you to take another look at it B)

 

 

 

I just figured since its just your and Jason up there, you were obligated to make room for it so it didnt go to waste. 

 

 

Yeah, I just don't want to get too many vehicles parked in the drive and annoy the neighbors.   Plus there are covenants about that stuff here.  Covenants that even go as far to say that working on, or restoring a vehicle is prohibited!!  I plan to ignore that one though.  I've got to have some sort of life!

[]2eDeYe]

So I was searching for how to lower the front.  It looks like I have to re-index the torsion rod.  I see there are two ways of doing this.  Can anyone tell me if one way is better than the other?

 

I noticed while under the truck that the adjusters at the ends of the torsion rods were adjusted differently.  I'm assuming that means one torsion rod is more worn than the other? or that there is an issue somewhere?

 

Once lowered, is there a need for a different shocks or bump stops?

 

I will continue reading other threads, but just in case someone wants to give me a lesson right here, please do!

 

 

It's hard to say how they end up like that over the years but it's pretty heard to wear out the springs. The easiest way to re index is to get it to the ride height you want and reference where the arms sit, then pull them from the back to clock them. The FAQ has some good pictures of what you'll be working with. :)

[KlassicMotion]

It's hard to say how they end up like that over the years but it's pretty heard to wear out the springs. The easiest way to re index is to get it to the ride height you want and reference where the arms sit, then pull them from the back to clock them. The FAQ has some good pictures of what you'll be working with. :)

 

Thanks.  I've looked up your FAQ and saw that method, but in the same thread, another method was mentioned.  It was something about NOT removing the c-clips, or something like that. I couldn't quite picture what they were talking about though.

 

 

**** Edited****

After re-reading, it seems just removing the c-clips is easy enough.

[]2eDeYe]

You can remove the arm at the control arm, but to me it's easier the way mentioned above. :)

[Eagle_Adam]

not a bad little beater, pm me. I have most of what your looking for, you can also have matt drop that stuff with me for shipping. I run a shipping dept at work and have discounts with UPS - we can get it figured out 

[tdaaj]

What part of Alaska are you in, I was there a few years ago, a wrecking yard in saldotna had a couple 620's. Weavers auto wrecking also had a couple 620' s too. Might be cheaper than shipping.

[KlassicMotion]

not a bad little beater, pm me. I have most of what your looking for, you can also have matt drop that stuff with me for shipping. I run a shipping dept at work and have discounts with UPS - we can get it figured out 

 

Hey, thanks for the offer!  I sent Matt a text. 

 

I should have check this thread before I ordered;

I just ordered some parts from B&R wrecking in Corvallis, OR http://www.autowrecking.com.  They have, or have already stripped a '76 620.  The stock number for the truck is: ccf990

 

I ordered:

R,R tail lamp.  I'm hoping that comes with the sheet metal around the light it's self...

Wiper arms

Wiper transmission rods

temperature control switches.... I only needed the knobs, but they wouldn't sell the knobs separate.

 

I will see how accurate the order is and then get back to you on the rest of my shopping list.

 

Thanks!

[KlassicMotion]

What part of Alaska are you in, I was there a few years ago, a wrecking yard in saldotna had a couple 620's. Weavers auto wrecking also had a couple 620' s too. Might be cheaper than shipping.

 

Awesome!  I'm just north of Anchorage.  Soldotna is about 3hrs away.  Not too bad.  I need to check out that area anyways.... Oh, wait, it's a 4 day weekend for my wife!!  I love junkyard treasure hunts! 

[KlassicMotion]

The grill is repaired. Here is the link to my repair job:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/57377-plastic-repair-using-eastwoods-hot-stapler/

 

 

Before:

 

 

 

After:

 

[Eagle_Adam]

grill came out great man 

[KlassicMotion]

Thanks.  I'm planning to paint the outside "rim" of the grill, silver to accent the black.  Like this one:

 

[KlassicMotion]

not a bad little beater, pm me. I have most of what your looking for, you can also have matt drop that stuff with me for shipping. I run a shipping dept at work and have discounts with UPS - we can get it figured out 

 

Adam, I tried to PM you, it said "you cannot receive any more new messages"....

 

So here is my PM:

 

Adam, Here is my 620 parts list for now:

 

Has Matt been able to drop off that door glass yet?  I'm not in a hurry, I'm just wondering how much $$ I'm going to owe him.

 

Thanks, Kyle

 

center Heater vent pull

Front turn signals

3 prong headlight boot

rear side marker lights

front side marker lights

driver's interior door handle plastic trim

arm rest

headliner corner trim

glove box hinge

window crank handle and plastic washers

ash tray

Wiper switch

[Eagle_Adam]

Has Matt been able to drop off that door glass yet?  I'm not in a hurry, I'm just wondering how much $$ I'm going to owe him.

 

 

just got it this weekend, ill have it shipped this week. Ill clear out my inbox when i get home 

[KlassicMotion]

just got it this weekend, ill have it shipped this week. Ill clear out my inbox when i get home 

 

No prob.  Thanks!

[KlassicMotion]

So, I'm working on electricals.( I don't have a wiring diagram yet). I decided to start in the engine bay, because under the dash.... not so pretty. I hate it when the electricals have been monkeyed with.

I've got four areas in question:

First is by the radiator support in front of the battery. I'm not sure why the wrapping is off, and I see two sets of wires that have recent electrical on them. Are they suppose to be joined as they are? Two into one, and 4 into one?

 

 

Second is the coil wire and points setup. Obviously someone disconnected the points from the harnes and ran a wire directly to the coil... What would normally be inbetween? or maybe they are bypassing the ballast resistor?
Also, there is a wire that connects to the green wire on the solenoid on the manifold. Is this correct? And what function does that soloenoid serve?

 

 

Next is the choke wire. There are two wires from the fire wall harness leading towards the carb. Do they have the choke hooked up the correct wire? And what is the other wire for?

 

 

 

Next is the positive battery cable. There is a hot lead off the cable that is spliced into a black wire that runs back up the harness. Then there is another black wire that runs back up the harness, but it is spliced to another black wire at the top of the harness?

 

 

And then, I noticed they had the vacuum advance hooked up wrong, so I'm also wondering if the fuel vapor valve system is hooked up properly? How should these hoses run?  The Fuel vapor valve (I forget the correct term at the momment): The bottom hose runs to the crank vent tube.  The top runs into the solenoid on the manifold, but it tees with a hose that goes to the B.C.D.D. on the side of the carb.