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Sunroof Restoration.


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its electric, the no glass type.

 

I am refering mostly just to the tub that contains the sliding rails and bolts to the roof of the car. the roof panel is removed from the assembly while its still in the car, and I am going to use body paint on it, none of the stuff I am painting in the tub is visible.

 

but its a sunroof, which means it has a drain in each corner and gets water in the top while its raining, my concern is having it all resist water for another 30 years and not get rust again from the rain and moisture basically.

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http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/por15-rust-prevention.aspx

 

 

So it's been a while since I used it but, what you need is in that link. The marine clean is for removing any oils and contaminants , the metal ready is the etcher and then you use the POR15. Looks like they offer some cleanup stuff as well now, might come in handy as that stuff sticks to everything really well :lol:

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but its a sunroof, which means it has a drain in each corner and gets water in the top while its raining, my concern is having it all resist water for another 30 years and not get rust again from the rain and moisture basically.

 

While you have it out, now is a good time to check on the condition of that 40 +/- year old vinyl{?} tube that directs the rain water down inside your A pillar to the ground. Hopefully you will not need to use the current tubes as a puller to insert a new pair of tubes.

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While you have it out, now is a good time to check on the condition of that 40 +/- year old vinyl{?} tube that directs the rain water down inside your A pillar to the ground. Hopefully you will not need to use the current tubes as a puller to insert a new pair of tubes.

this is the next subject of concern, I would appreciate your input on it. there are 4 drains, one on each corner.

 

what do you mean use the current tubes as a puller?

 

where do the tubes actually run to? does the tube go all the way down to the bottom of the car?

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this is the next subject of concern, I would appreciate your input on it. there are 4 drains, one on each corner.

 

what do you mean use the current tubes as a puller?

 

where do the tubes actually run to? does the tube go all the way down to the bottom of the car?

Locate the point at the bottom of the chassis where the tubes exit and insert a plug which you will use to clamp onto with, say, a ViseGrip, Got to the sunroof compartment, insert a plug and attach your new vinyl tube to the plug. A staple or two here would probably be a good thing. Go to the other end and start pulling as gently as you can in order to get the old tube to act as a "snake" and guide the replacement through the pillar. Don't cut until you are finished pulling, " Little bit of a good thing is absolutely wonderful" to quote Mae West. Yes! the tubes go all the way to the bottom of the car. How else would you dispose of the rain water? Into your interior rugs?

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You shouldnt paint over regular por15 with regular paint. They make a primer specifically to top coat por15 (tie coat) and an etcher/primer to be painted over as well. Regular paint doesnt bond properly to por15

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hey mike thanks for the info, and HAHA, no i didnt think it drained onto my carpet lol. I wsnt sure if the tube went all the way to the bottom though or if it emptied into some type of common channel that the other one went to in either the front or back (sometimes my mind over complicates things)

 

 

I am torn over wether to use POR or an epoxy based paint on the tub.

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POR wasnt designed to be a primer. I use epoxy primer/base on body work and por on anything hidden like the interior, dash frame, undercarriage, suspension, back side of panels etc...  With body work there is no real need or benefit to using por as a primer, if anything its just more complicated and expensive. 

So I would say any area to remain unexposed use por but any area you plan to paint and see just use a traditional primer sealer. 

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They sell a thinner ("solvent") to reduce and spray, usually a 2-1 ratio. I have heard of people using a regular lacquer thinner at 4:1 but I have no 1st hand experience with that. 

If you spray it use a GOOD respirator. POR15 has some VERY nasty shit in it you do not want to breath. Not a big deal when brushing but when spraying be very careful. 

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  • 1 month later...

okay so here is the dilemna I am in. I have the por-15 and the prep. But there are areas I am not going to be able to get all the paint out of, crevices and such. I know POR will not adhere to anything other than rust and metal. What should I do here?

 

I cant believe I havent posted any pics yet in this thread. Tonight I will.

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bump

 

I am pretty much leaning against using the POR at this point. It seems to be very much less than ideal for my purposes. Theres too many places I can not guarantee either complete paint removal, complete etching, OR complete adhesion. So that considered, POR, Even though I already have it and the metal prep, Is out.

 

I can still use the metal prep though, but what should I use for paint......?

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I settled on Rustoleum and I am pretty damn happy. I did the POR prep and ready then followed with self etching primer.

 

I wanted to get a picture of this before it got covered. Some Japanese Brazer on the assembly line probably just did this all day. He would have had to cut this copper pipe at the right angle, and then braze it in so it did not leak, and make sure that it is at the lowest point it can be in. He would have had to do 4 on each sunroof tub, one on each corner. I just thought that was something cool worth mentioning. This is very old school and is not done on ANYTHING anymore.

016_zpsa7530b01.jpg

 

The drain from the outside of the tub.

018_zps561b1f65.jpg

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