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Weber Carb


lanechurch920

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If you get the kit for your vehicle, the mpg loss shouldn't be bad once it is tuned.. You may actually gain mpg if your surrent carb is in need of repair.

 

I bought mine from webercarbsdirect.com and their kit isn't as good as Redline's from what I hear. Supposedly Redline has there carbs pre-jetted close to the vehicle that the kit is made for, which makes tuning easier.

 

Weber carbs direct does not pre-jet the carbs with their kits. They use the average jets which somehow works out to 160/150 for mains. My 620 runs pig rich and is fouling plugs now.

 

Adjustments, as far as the idle circuit, are easy. You can look up some really good information on the web or pick up the weber tuning book. I think its a haynes manual.

 

Good luck, be sure to take pics.

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I myself did buy mine from redline.com with the adaptor plate and shipping it was just under 330.00 bucks.

 

It was easy to get it set up to run right.

It is definitely a power increase over a stock carb.

 

Just follow the instructions they send with it and it really isnt that hard. Make sure you mark all the lines going to the carb, just like it says in the instructions. I would use masking tape and write on that if you have that many lines going to your carb still.

 

Taking lots of pics before you get started will make it easier for anyone to help you if you run into any trouble with it.

 

Are you needing a new carb or are you looking for a lil more pep outta your truck?

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If your looking for a solid carb to run around in, and your not looking for great performance gains, then it's a good carb.

 

I've never been impressed with the 32/36.  It just feels lacking in gitty-up. Though, over a stock carb, it's better, and the factory says it will not have MPG loss. 

 

I went with the Weber 38 DGES. It's a 38/38 synchronous.  Runs great, runs clean.  The only thing it doesn't have that the 32/36 has, is an idle circuit shut off valve.  So on my 1980 L20B with W58 head, it tends to "run-on" when I shut it down.  I haven't taken the time to solve the issue, I just slowly let the clutch out when turning off the key....  I'm also running this setup in a 510, so its more of a toy than a daily driver.

 

Also, they are easy to install.  But inspect the parts and a do a mock-up before fully installing it.  The carb is good quallity.  The adapter plates are very lacking.  Both of my adapter plates were warped and the ports didn't match up very well.  They also didn't match up to the intake.  I ported the intake to match the plates, and ported the plates to match each other.  I also planed the plates so they were flat and true.  The thick gaskets they include will probably suffice and not leak, but the better the fit, the less long term trouble you will have.

 

Also, I don't remember if the 32/36 is the same, but the 38 DGES has to have a fuel pressure regulator. 

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I'm running the 38/38 as well, same issue with "run on or dieseling".  When it is tuned right it does shut down but you will want to play with jetting to get it there.  Has more juice than I ever need, and I would expect that they get worse mpg if you compare it to stock, or 32/38.  Just driving to work as a dd, and you are not really into that amazing feeling of projecting your steel masterpiece through the gear tree, go with 32/38.  To get better feel for what your engine can put out, and pass the guy with the 32/38, get the 38/38.  The vast majority of your fuel economy is determined by your right foot.  Drive it like its a Prius, and it will save you money.  Drive it like a Datsun and you will become so damn good at swiping the credit card.  It'll be like ninja reflex.  

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  • 11 years later...
1 hour ago, sami_i_am said:

Good Morning 

 

I'm looking to replace the carb on my 720 1984 dually, price is pretty much around the same range for the weber and the Hitachi, what would you all recommend? 

 

Thank you in advance for the comments.

The most popular carb for any small engine is hands down, the 32/36 DGV or DGEV. They are just so versatile and easy to tune. But your engine is bordering on not-so-small, meaning, it might benefit from a slightly bigger carb, like a 38/38 DGAS. The only caveat with the 38/38 is that it is not a progressive linkage carburetor, it is a synchronous linkage carb meaning both butterflies open simultaneously.

 

If you wanted to go down the rabbit hole, it is possible to convert the DGAS to progressive simply by stealing the linkage from the DGV and swapping it over, but yeah, rabbit hole.

 

I'd go with the electric choke DGV. It's the best all around carb.

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It'll work (38/38) but it's really for V6s and small V8s. If it had a vacuum secondary I would say definitely go for it as it open as the engine needs it. Progressive, like the 32/36, you do have to drive it somewhat before flooring it and although smaller than the Z24 34/38 the Hitachi is kind of choked off with a multiple venturi in the secondary. On paper it's bigger but I think the 'smaller' 32/36 Weber is at least equal, maybe better.  Too bad the 32/36 wasn't a vacuum secondary. The synchronous 38/38 would require a 'light touch' that you don't open too fast and bog. A progressive and even better a vacuum secondary 38/38 would be ideal absolutely!

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I put a 32/36 in my 2.4L a couple of months ago. I'm not sure what the MPG was with the stock carb. The engine was running so poorly when I got it, I didn't drive it enough to check the MPG. I'm getting 23/24 now, which is a mix of backroad and freeway driving. Usually driving above 75mph when on the freeway. Once I got the carb dialed in, the engine starts easily and runs great with pretty good acceleration for a 40 year old four banger. 

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