Justin Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 Okay, so I replaced the head on my L16 with a U67 head AND changed the timing chain at the same time. -I set the motor to TDC on the compression stroke FIRST -Checked the block to make sure it was at TDC on the 1st cylinder -checked the cam to make sure the locating dowel was at 12 o clock and checked the dash/v-mark (which both lined up; cam lobes were at 10 and 2) -got the "bright-links" in their respective positions (2 o clock on the cam side and roughly 3 o clock on the block side) -made sure the ignition drive gear/oil pump drive gear was at 11:28 -Put it all back together *DO have spark* BUT the engine does not even sputter. Might any of you guys suggest what needs to be checked/done? This is the 3rd time I've put it back together, I'm out of idea's and I'm starting to get a darn migraine over this stress, Thanks in advance! :crying: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 Be sure the small side half moon is to the front. If yours is backwards just 180 the wires. 1 and 3.. 4 and 2. 1 Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 what head did you put on? Quote Link to comment
Justin Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hmmm... just found out my fuel pump doesn't appear to be getting fuel to the carb.... The plot thickens!! Quote Link to comment
Justin Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Okay, slapped on an outside fuel tank and now it's sputtering... Hopefully I'll have this fixed tonight! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 There is no 'high compression' head for the L16. Only the stock 210 head has the proper compression. All closed chamber peanut and open chamber heads are larger and will drop the compression. A U67 head will drop the compression from 8.58 to 6.72. Quote Link to comment
Justin Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Cool, thanks man. (changed my post!) So a peanut head is actually a lower-compression head then, correct? That's good to know... Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 6.72. And thats going to be some shitty compression to be running NA. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Fuel. carb fuel pump. accel pump squirt gas Compression + ck the valve lash ignition.+ ck the electrical timming of the rotor. is it 1 3 4 2 Counter clockwise it will spark I alwasy prime the fuel pump before I install it. Meaning pump it with your hand to fill the carb up the arm will go limp then install pump. PS Hope you prime or had oil in the Oil pump before start up also http://vimeo.com/19077890 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Cool, thanks man. (changed my post!) So a peanut head is actually a lower-compression head then, correct? That's good to know... . Yes. The L16SSS used flattop pistons to bring it up. Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 That's why I asked what head. Quote Link to comment
Justin Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Sweetness! It runs/drives now, but I get a little bit of grayish smoke, occasional backfiring, crappy throttle response and it's super advanced BUT still has low RPM's. Is this because of the low compression, or did the chain possibly slip a tooth upon re-assembly? What is the easiest way to retard the crank/advance the cam w/o pulling the front cover? It seems like moving the cam gear to the #2 spot might be over-doing it...??? I'd like to just disconnect the chain and retard the crank, but I'm thinking since I have to block/stuff the tensioner, I'm probably only able to advance the cam gear? Aye-yi-yieee :geek: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Look at it this way.... The tighter packed the fuel and air molecules, the easier it is for the flame to jump from one to the other. A high compression motor will burn 'faster' than a low compression motor. To get the full effect of the combustion pressure pushing down on the piston at the correct time, a low compression motor will need to be fired sooner because it takes longer to burn. Not sure why you would want to mess with the cam timing. This is not the same as the ignition timing. For now leave it alone. Sweetness! It runs/drives now, but I get a little bit of grayish smoke, occasional backfiring, crappy throttle response and it's super advanced BUT still has low RPM's. Is this because of the low compression, or did the chain possibly slip a tooth upon re-assembly? . You can check your cam timing easily enough. Set the motor to TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder. There is a timing scale down near the crank pulley. Rotate the crank up to the 0 (zero) mark by turning the crank in a clockwise direction only. If you over shoot back up well before TDC and try again as many times as needed to get it right. Accuracy here is very important. Clockwise direction to 0 and stop. Take the valve cover off and look through to top hole on the cam sprocket. If timed properly you should see a V notch on the back of the sprocket just below a small horizontal etch mark on the cam thrust plate directly above it. Like this. For proper cam timing the notch should be below or just barely to the right of the line above it. I don't think it's physically possible for an L motor to skip a tooth. More likely the owner puts it together wrong. Quote Link to comment
sanyantho Posted October 16, 2018 Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 (edited) On 6/16/2013 at 7:11 PM, datzenmike said: There is no 'high compression' head for the L16. Only the stock 210 head has the proper compression. All closed chamber peanut and open chamber heads are larger and will drop the compression. A U67 head will drop the compression from 8.58 to 6.72. Edited October 16, 2018 by sanyantho Quote Link to comment
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