Schneider Racing Cam

[wagoon]

So I scored a Schneider (260-70F) regrind racing cam, and I have a port a polished u67 head. I read somewhere that is good to have thicker lash pads for these cams.

 

Is it really necessary considering I have new stock lash pads, rocker arms, and so forth, I can just use those right? 

 

I just finished my valve lash 0.008 and 0.010, is there anything else I should be aware of when setting up these cams?

 

So what can I expect performance wise from this cam, will there be some lope?

 

Tell me about your experience about this cam. 

 

I will be running twin 40mm dcoes on this stock bottom end L20B.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Take a photo of the lobes

some of those cams came new or some are regrinds

both will have same specs but if a regrind they will need even bigger lash pads.

 

yes you need the correct size lash pads to center the wipe pattern on the rockers. and best to get new retainers also.

I like the nissan alum retainers myself.

if its a 460 lift you might get away using the stock retainers for the bigger lash pads to go into but they could always falls out as they are not being supported as much unlike a aftermarket retainer wheres there more suppoert around the lashpad.

 

 

I have new stock lash pads??????????

stock lash pads are counter sunk in back and about .120 thick.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You need to set the valve geometry up properly using the proper lash pads. If you do not, at best, your cam profile will not be fully appreciated; at worst, you will have catastrophic engine failure; mostly, you will wear out rockers and/or your cam.

 

If you don't know how to do this, buy the "How to modify your Nissan OHC" book http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049 ,  or look around here on Ratsun for a DIY guide.

[Xnke]

That particular grind will require a thicker lash pad if it is not cut on a new core. Is this a Nissan Japan core, or not?

[wagoon]

So I spoke to Jerry or Jeremy at Schneider Racing Cam located here in San Diego, he said it's okay to run the stock setup just as long as you don't redline it over 6k, then you would for surely need thicker lash pads. I will have to do the dye test and check the placement of the rocker arms making sure they are completely centered.

 

If the valve lash is correct should it automatically be centered?

 

I took Hainz's advice and did the valve lash with lobes up. 

 

Where can I get thicker lash pads?

 

Here is the lobe shot. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

looks like a Regrind.

as the back side of the lobe is really close to the core of the cam casting. That means they cut the back side of the lobe to increase the overall height.

 

 

matter of fact I was told Scheider only does regrinds now

 

 

was this cam in this head as photoed? Maybe its set up already? Or you just put this in.

 

what I do . is remove the rockers 1 by 1 marking were they go. and instll one rocker with Magic marker on all over the rocker pad.Install rocker and set the valve lash/ then turn the cam in direction it needs to go. then pull it out ans see how its centered.

 

This also depends if head is milled and valve seats and stems have been cut also( if recent) but go by above procedure.

 

Schneider sold cam kits and nissan sold reatainers and lash pads also. But its a best guess to get it right. Sealick on here is maybe the lastest guy to get all the infor. PM him

[Xnke]

Nissan has lash pads, as well as Isky. Not all sizes are available anymore and most of the commonly used sizes are out of stock.

 

If the cam grinder told you it was ok to run stock lash pads...Either it's a new core, or they're not thinking. Any time you change the base circle diameter, you will need to adjust the lash pad thickness. I think he probably thought you were talking about spring retainers, since he mentioned a rev-limit. Lash pad thickness doesn't care about the rev limit.

 

Measure the base circle of the schneider cam, and then measure the base circle of a stock cam.

 

You subtract the base circle of the regrind from the base circle of stock, then divide by two and add 0.010" to 0.030". The result, added to the stock lash pad thickness, is the size lash pad you START checking with. You add the 10 to 30 thou extra so you can machine them to the correct thickness, since not all cams are cut on the same ramp rates. This little formula is NOT perfect and often times will predict a lash pad thickness that does NOT work...but it will get you much closer. As Hainz mentioned, the lash pad thickness depends on more than just cam base circle; it also depends on if the cam towers have been shimmed or the valve seats cut a little, or a lot, or if the valves are the same length as stock...

 

It's exactly the same as picking pushrods for a V8. If they are not right...accelerated valvetrain wear is the result. Sometimes it only takes minutes.

 

Run a fingernail over the highest point of the lobe...that cam looks like it has a little wear.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Run a fingernail over the highest point of the lobe...that cam looks like it has a little wear.

I noticed that. I wonder if it's just assembly lube built up. Either way, that cam doesn't look pristine.

[wagoon]

Ok, I put back together the cam, used a black marker for each lobe and they all land in the center of the rocker pad. So far so good right? Now I do have the shims on the the towers since it was milled (not sure how much by), other than that the cam spun fine and ran my nail over the lobes and no dents or markings. So am I good to go or do I still need thicker lash pads?

[Sealik]

Valve lash clearance is set to Schneiders specs.....?....not sure what it is, could be a little tighter than other grinds.

If the pattern is centered...Good to go.

 

You should have a little less than 1/8" of marker  remaining on each side of the rocker....after wiping.

 

 

 

Also...you don't have to slather all of the face.....just the edges.

Gets removed anyways.

 

As seen in lower left..........rockers prior to wipe

 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Ok, I put back together the cam, used a black marker for each lobe and they all land in the center of the rocker pad. So far so good right? Now I do have the shims on the the towers since it was milled (not sure how much by), other than that the cam spun fine and ran my nail over the lobes and no dents or markings. So am I good to go or do I still need thicker lash pads?

If you've already checked the rocker pattern, then why are you now going to install cam tower shims. Install the shims and then check the rocker pattern.

 

Why do you think you need shims? How much was the head milled?

[wagoon]

Long story short. I scored an L20b that came with u67 head. The seller didn't know there was a 260-70f sitting. I had 2nd u67 head that came with my free wagon and I discovered it was port and polished and had shims already in place. How much was milled...I dunno, wish I knew. All I knew it put a smile on my face...talk about cheap horse power :thumbup:  I left the shims in place, I only swapped out the cams. So I guess it's a legit setup. :thumbup:

[banzai510(hainz)]

if its close to the center its most likely good.

 

Schneider is .006 in .008 exahust if i remeber right cold.

 

dont be surprise if you DONT get 20hp. but adding sidedrafts will help also

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The most important thing to remember when installing cam tower shims: make sure the cam turns.

[wagoon]

It spins freely and evenly. Actually Schneider recommends 0.008 Intake, and 0.010 Exhaust.

 

This is what I will be putting in with the cam:

[datzenmike]

.....and had shims already in place. How much was milled...I dunno, wish I knew. .

.

Measure from the valve cover to head surface. All the L heads I've measured were 4.248" or within a few thou. Someone here says 4.26? but never seen one that thick. Bottom first paragraph agrees... http://www.olddatsuns.com/html/tech/head_ID_2.htm