'74 and then some

[JNHEscher]

Since I just have my phone to post from now, I can't paste pics in. I can, however, just paste in the link. Continued on the cab tonight. I'm running a flap disc down the overlapping seams and filling the leftover gap. I want everything seamless for the molds. Using JB too since it adheres to steel and hardens well. I've tried over and over to weld and even solder it with no luck. Solder won't stick and welds just spit and spatter as though the metal is full of oxidation.
http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd471/JNHEscher/PL620/IMG_20131208_190859_zps10cdc8df.jpg
^hopefully that link works.

 

[JNHEscher]

Parts. Tie rod stuff, idler arm, shocks and motor mount. I have work to do.

Bought a squirrel cage and 50' of flex hose to evacuate the exhaust so I can run and tune my truck in the shop without asphyxiating myself. Any heat I can get is awesome since its only 36° in there.

[Cpl620]

you gona throw in any flex support between the plates?

 

edit: just saw, thats only supporting the bed? youre probably fine.

[JNHEscher]

Most likely. Thats been on my mind every time I look at them. Bow-legged bag plates might look cool, though.

[JNHEscher]

Just aired up all the bags to full pressure and the whole truck sits perfectly level. Even with left and right bags T'd together, it sits level side to side. Measuring my total suspension travel so I can mark where the shocks should go.

 

I think I'm done with Rock Auto on this one. Wrong motor mount. Part number matches my receipt which matches their online catalog. Not a significantly hindered by it, though. I'll just live with a jumping motor a for a bit.

[JNHEscher]

Been a few, but I got a bit done. New master cylinder on. Still pulling nothing but air out of the bleeders, so I order speed bleeders for all six. One tie rod done, but the other accidentally got right hand threads on both ends at the machine shop. Got the vehiCross hood prepped for painting and making the mold. We went from spring temps to the teens overnight and I haven't been able to keep the shop any warmer than 34°. Started moving everything to the upstairs room again where I can actually heat it. Almost over the crud that my wife brought home.

[JNHEscher]

Finally, I have fully functioning brakes. Installed speed bleeders on the rear and master. The 10mm bleeders wouldn't work on the 720 calipers because the threads don't reach far enough to seat. Other than that, they all clamp down hard.

 

Been getting over being sick and busy prepping parts for molds. Lots more to update you all with, tomorrow!

[JNHEscher]

Ran through all the gears while on the lift. Need to shift the driveshaft a bit to get rid of some vibration.

 

My speedo still doesn't work, so I may take it apart for a fixin. My last tie rod came in and is cut for rethreading. New plugs and wires to put on. Need to mount the rest of the shocks, then take it for a spin.

 

Still need to grab a cheap and quiet muffler. The rich exhaust already stinks. Don't need to be loud and obnoxious, too lol.

 

About time to start that carbon thread...

[datzenmike]

I do a lot of reading here and lost track of this about 3 pages back. All caught up. :thumbup:

[JNHEscher]

I think I lose track between each post. So much going on through this month and the eldest generation in all sides of my family are off to some place peaceful.

 

I believe ill get the tie rod installed today and drop my truck at ride height to adjust the stabilizer bars accordingly. Ill stick with the 720 spindle for now, but after getting most everything installed I noticed that both wheels still wobble a tad. When I posted about the old wheel bearings being locked up and spinning on the spindle itself... turns out they really did wear the spindle down enough to keep the inner bearings from holding still. Torqing them down works, but will obviously burn up the bearings.

 

I need to get a low-pressure fuel gauge to check it at the carb. It still runs rich as hell, particularly when its first started. The PO blocked off the return line just a several do on their trucks and I'm curious if that is feeding the carb too much. All tuning is spot on other than installing a smaller jet but it idles and revs perfectly to redline without any stumble or hesitation.

 

I managed to mock up the rear shocks in a good spot for tight control. They're verticle just inboard of the frame rails and very close to the axle housing. They clear everything just right, though. The front will have to be mounted on the stabilizer bars and a tower made for up top.

[JNHEscher]

<http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd471/JNHEscher/PL620/IMG_20131226_191721_zpsajr9zeq1.jpg>

 

Today's happenings. Used the upper 620 control arms to make shock mounts. Worked like a charm.

 

Since I can only paste the link here, I figured the pic wouldn't show up without having to click the link. The last link I pasted is actually showing the JB weld pic in the post. Let's see what happens.

[GRpufnstuf]

Throw before, and after that link and it should show the pic.

[KlassicMotion]

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/691-how-to-post-pictures-and-keep-online-photo-albums/

 

 

 

Like this:

 

(looking good by the way!)

 

 

[JNHEscher]

Still a little fuzz-brained on the before and after for the pics.

 

Anyway, Kenny and I got all the front shocks mounts welded up. They're placed just behind the control arms where they could offer good control and still clear the brakes and bags. Had to relocate the brake hose tabs further back on the chassis to make room for shock mounts. All works well and I can't wait to drive this. The windshield is out and its 16°, so no driving, today.

 

I always have my phone plugged in the stereo and tend to forget pics. I'll take some of the finished suspension in the morning.

[GRpufnstuf]

It's hard to show the correct HTML tags because they disappear when. The post is published. I thought I had it beat but mine vanished.

 

The picture code is "img" for image. It gets surrounded by brackets "[" and "]" then when you've pasted the code you close the img statement with more brackets around "/img"

[JNHEscher]

It's hard to show the correct HTML tags because they disappear when. The post is published. I thought I had it beat but mine vanished. The picture code is "img" for image. It gets surrounded by brackets "[" and "]" then when you've pasted the code you close the img statement with more brackets around "/img"

I figured that's what happened to your example lol. Ah well. This sounds like I'm supposed to add the brackets while pasting the link into the picture link insertion block. When I tap on the reply box, none of the options show up (font size/color, insert pic, etc.) All I have is a mere text box to paste into. I was under the impression that the JB weld pic was fixed by an admin since I was making an attempt to get it to show up.

[JNHEscher]

[JNHEscher]

Totally blows trying to learn pic posting from a phone screen that only shows so much at once.

 

Above you will see the recently mounted shocks. I just dropped the truck to ride height to check clearances and function. Everything works but I need to do something with the tie rods. They still rub the bags at around 70% to full lock.

[JNHEscher]

Sitting at ride height.

[JNHEscher]

The arms are at pretty good angles considering I measured nothing.

 

[JNHEscher]

 

 

Still pondering the culprit to these fried wires. Nothing quit work. It just lookes bad. This happened after installing the rebuilt Hitatchi carb.

[GRpufnstuf]

Is that coming out of the regulator (posse)?

[Cpl620]

missing a fuse somewhere?

[Eagle_Adam]

^^^ this

 

 

hows your fuseable link look? 

[JNHEscher]

Regulator and heater relay. Haven't looked the fusible link over. I would bet it got removed. Theres so many splices with lumps of electrical tape. Smoke began rolling off them when I started the truck and it immediately revved to the moon. I'll check again but it looked to be the black wire at the regulator and both the blue/whites at the heater relay.