'70 Wagon KA24E-T

[Dzaster]

Figure I stop lurking and start getting more social in here. Have been getting lots of good info and help from members. Lots of sharp, innovative people on here.

So I picked up my KA24E swapped 1970 wagon from a guy that was local to me in Kailua Kona, HI. Got it for $1000. It's somewhat stripped. Had been in a small accident that took out a bit fo the front end. Previous owner(PO) worked on straightening things out some. So here's how I received it.














I haven't done a whole lot, more just suspension stuff to get the wheels (Rota RB 15x7 +12, 195/50/15) to fit the way I wanted. Here some of that work.







Modified 280ZX front strut/hub assembly












Rear setup with Flex-Form composite springs, 2" lowering block with 2* angle, Monroe air shocks








Monroe Air Shocks, Part number can be found in greengoon's thread/post HERE. Thanks Duane :thumbup:








Temporary location of Schrader valve for the air shock.






Shocks totally deflated.




90psi in rear shocks





40psi in rear shocks

[Dzaster]

Next modification: Traction bars, idea taken from Kelvin Dietz (pics of install and design rendering)








280ZX rear disk brake conversion, front already converted 280ZX as well as BMC





B210 Booster (prolly can't use now that motor is to be turbo'd)






Other restoration type stuff, with quite a bit more in storage








 

And piecing of the turbo kit!!!

 

 

Jim Wolf Tech ECU--soon to be sent in for a suitable flash

 

 

PTE 4831B Turbo (Specs)










Top mount manifold (ebay action)







Intercooler options: An OBX and a Greddy kit







Turbosmart BOV, Tial Wastegate, 300ZX MAF, NRG Adjustable FPR (Walbro 255lph installed)







Greddy Profec E-01 Electronic Boost Controller (to also take the place of displaying boost, AFR, etc.)





Apex-i Turbo Timer






JAW v1.03 wideband O2 controller






RC Engineering 550cc High Impedance Injectors

 

Sorry for some of the pictures being so large. I was having trouble finding the setting to change the default upload size of the pics. Recently found that PhotoBucket took it away and now reimplemented it. So they should be 640x480 in the future.



Thanks to all the guys who've helped ship me out parts as well sharing the info. Dealing with shipping to Hawaii, I need to make certain what I'm getting will actually work/fit. Sometimes it don't work out as planned, but that's not too often, and generally not without a remedy.

[DottiBlue]

Looking good. That thing should be a beast. What's your hp expectations?

[FiveSeventyZee]

wow...this is way cool...Its like a goon version of my dime but better in almost every way haha  :thumbup: 

[Dzaster]

250hp would be ideal, but would like to have 300hp in the back pocket for those rare 1320 runs. The car is/was meant more to be a cruiser but I wanted some grunt to back the look, and the wow factor is always welcome too. Hopefully I can achieve both.

 

Most my friends and I have yet to see another 510 wagon rolling around my isle, so this should be pretty unique once done.

 

Thanks for checkin it out.

 

And BTW the stock KA24E gets this car to boogie as it is. Boosted is gonna be action.

[jesusno2]

well 300hp in a single cam, ya better get some forged internals or that things going POP! I'd never run over 7psi on a stock bottom end. 300hp you'll need to be up in the 12psi range. I got a KC hardbody with 7 psi at 202 whp. with a aem fic. still working on the fuel mapping 

[Dzaster]

I hear you. And I'm seeing lots about stock KA being limited to around what you're suggesting but fuel is one thing, staving off det is a whole nuther aspect. On the flip side I've also seen guys doing quite a bit work with the stock.

 

But being that this isnt my daily driver, I can treat it as a project car, so I am prepared to do a built motor if that is what it comes to.

[K_trip]

- removed -

[Telkwa]

Never heard of datsunlandsocal.  Dangit, they don't show any 720 rubber.  Do you know anything about these guys?

[Dzaster]

If you're asking me, I have done a few purchases from him--the seal kit, couple trim pieces, and a bumper deal that didn't go through. No complaints so far, but I have yet to use any of the products I've purchased from him, so not much to comment on there.

[KyushaKai]

Never heard of datsunlandsocal.  Dangit, they don't show any 720 rubber.  Do you know anything about these guys?

 

If you search his rep on here, it's...  interesting.  I personally had a smooth transaction when I bought my kit (full wagon seal kit), but I am yet to install it.

 

BTW, Dzaster...  I expect a ride in this beast next time I come to Kona!

[Dzaster]

If you search his rep on here, it's...  interesting.  I personally had a smooth transaction when I bought my kit (full wagon seal kit), but I am yet to install it.

 

BTW, Dzaster...  I expect a ride in this beast next time I come to Kona!

haha. You got it.

 

I did see some convo and feedback on him and his product and no doubt, its interesting.

[Dzaster]

Working on traction bars.

 

 

My welds arent pretty but should hold. Not a weldwr by trade and havent done it enough, but should get better as I refine what I use and learn how to use it.

[Swedishcadillac]

Aloha! I looked to buy this wagon from PO 6 months ago, when he lived Palisades. Paperwork, hood and passenger side rust scared me off. I test drove it... Pretty f'n raw machine. Congrats on scoring a deal. Thought you might be interested, there is a 4-door 510 in Hilo on Craigslist right now that I checked out, not sure how low he'll go on price. But it has solid hood, doors, stock engine, reg. 1 month old. When I was checking out that one I thought it would be a good parts car for the Goon you scored. I'm thinking of bringing a 510 over from mainland soon. Good luck! Aloha!

[Dzaster]

Howzit?! If you're referring to the red one in Hilo, I checked with that owner. His asking for the whole car is more than I want to pay and he don't care to part out.

 

I picked up a hood, F/G valence, and newly chromed front bumper, grill etc. Pretty much have the front end covered. Just need some miscellaneous interior, carpet and seat belts mainly just to make it bearable to drive. However, I have a good braddah in Hilo that car work this car back into shape., but yeah it could use some fresh doors, but can't have those ship where they can be found cheap on the mainland US. Last resort I will pay someone for a door and have them cut the bottom 6" and have it grafted in. Best I can thing of without paying $600 to ship a used door.

 

Most the custom work that was done to it was obviously done by guys who knew a bit about these cars. Plus the guy, Josh, has been helpful even til today.

 

Anyways, I'm really hear to post up the finish product of the traction bars. Well almost finished. Need to pull the parts and paint it now.

 

 

 

 

I did some testing with full suspension travel to see how the bars shortened or lengthened at full extension and collapse.

 

I installed the bars relaxed(no preloading) so that they have roughly 1/2" of shortening/lengthening ability on the heim joints stud, in the event I need to adjust length. I installed this at 40psi in my air-shocks as that would be my cruising ride height. Have no clue how lowered that puts my car.

 

 

Full compression of suspension with no air in shocks and little bit of load with wheels and parts in rear hatch area.

 

 

 

Bolt hole lines up pretty much just as they did when I installed them at 40psi in air shocks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Full extension, axle hanging from suspension.

 

 

 

 

You can see that the bar would naturally want to lengthen if they were telescoping like Kelvin Dietz's design (see HERE for feeler GB thread).

 

 

 

 

Whether or not I'll incorporate a slip-slip joint function, I'm not sure, but from my observation it wouldn't hurt to have that lengthening function at full extension. Reason being at my cruise height the slip joint would have no gap and bars would do its job.

 

Being that slip-joint would only be gapped at full extension, that would be pretty much ok since I shouldn't really be launching hard then and if I were I'm pretty sure the differential output and mating drive-shaft flanges(the parts that rub the tunnel) would be pretty well separated.

 

 

Gotta give thanks to the guys that shared info here on Ratsun and elsewhere on the net. Thanks guys.

 

Next....install the 280ZX rear disk brake conversion with jesusno2 brackets. I haven't really been able to find much pictures detailing this particular install. Hopefully I don't run into too much problems. Fresh pads should be waiting when I get home. Just need to get rotors cut.

 

 

[BayArea510]

Nice Wagon! What are the specs on those Flex Forms and what did u pay for them? I am considering new leafs for my Goon but also toying with the idea of Coilovers and a pan hard or 4link.

[Dzaster]

I think I paid $500 shipped to Hawaii. The specs I'm not sure. I just took specs that he had on file that he had made for others because I hadn't my own specs to really go off of.

[jrock4224]

nice progress...

[Dzaster]

Thanks.

 

This weekend I should be wrapping up my rear disk conversion--and the above set that's pictured did not work out so will have details on the setup I'm using.

 

Have quite a bit more turbo parts as well. Probably clean up all the individual parts pics and try and get one picture with all parts laid out in like a week or so once the slew of parts I have in transit arrive.

[Yakuza]

very nice...

[Dzaster]

Completed the rear disk brake setup minus the e-brake setup.

 

Anyways, here's a list of parts for the conversion.

 

- deans510 custom conversion brackets

- 86-87 Maxima Calipers
- 82-83 280zx/200sx pad holder/brackets
- 82-83 280zx/200sx rotors (258mm diameter)

- 82-83 280ZX Brake Pads

- custom SS braided lines to replace all rubber flex lines

 

The rotors for 86-87 Maxima are 285mm so they wont' work with his brackets, nor with the pad holders/brackets. You may find other years parts that work but this is just what I wound up with after looking at pics from Dean, comparing to online websites, and trial and error actually trying to install the stuff.

 

 

deans510's Conversion Brackets for 510 Wagon

 

 

 

 

 

280ZX bracket on Maxima caliper loaded with 280ZX pads

 

 

 

 

 

Difference between Maxima and 280ZX bracket

 

 

 

 

 

Custom SS Braided Lines

 

 

 

 

 

Installed

 

 

 

 

There was only one pretty minor/easy fix with the fitment of these brackets. The caliper on the passenger side straddled the rotor a little too close to center. So much so that the shim of the pad would touch the center of the rotor.

 

 

 

 

The other side the pad sat a little too high on the rotor so that a portion of the pad was not making contact with the rotor.

 

 

 

The other thing that might concern some is that each of his brackets are hand made so the finish isn't the prettiest. For me that's a non-issue as this part isn't even seen. On top of that, since I had already hacked my drum brake backing plate to try another set of custom brackets that didn't work out so well for me, finding that Dean made these brackets that do fit was a huge blessing.

 

 

I'm still deciding whether I wanna try and make work the 280ZX floor mounted handbrake and cables, or just do a hydraulic handbrake and carry tire chocks. If I can swing it, I may look to try a MICO hydraulic setup. Theirs looks a little more quality.

 

 

As far as how they work, I can't say at this time. The car is on jack stands getting the turbo conversion worked out. However, I don't think there will be a problem with them.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Here's an update on the turbo conversion. Not going the fastest, but starting to gain some motivation.......err......momentum. At this point its all mock up--exhaust, inter-cooler, cooling system, vac/boost lines, etc. I was gonna pull the motor and rebuild, while I beef up the clutch system but I will look to get it running boosted and run it "easy easy" until its ready for paint.

 

 

Couple things I'm trying with this build that I haven't tried before is an Air-To-Water Inter-cooler setup and electric exhaust cutout.

 

You can see from this pic that after that 180* bend hot pipe it'll be a straight shot with a 90* to the throttle body. The inter-cooler will sit between the motor and radiator--only 14" long and 4" width. The heat exchanger for the A2W system I'm thinking to mount between grill and radiator. Will run two 10" e-fans, one will be inside as a pull and the other outside as a push. I ordered the I/C and exchanger. Will be picking the stuff up this weekend. Using a boat bilge pump.

 

 

 

 

From the bottom looking up at turbo.

 

 

 

 

Had to clock the prefabbed dump-pipe as it wanted to vent to the engine block.

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the electric cutout. The current exhaust is only 2.5" but its mandrel bent. No shops do mandrel bent on my isle and even a crush bent 3" DP back ran me some coin last project. So the e-cutout I thought would be to insure some easy flow at the flick of a switch.

 

 

 

 

I'm currently working on the exhaust routing trying to incorporate a small flex pipe, V-clamp, exhaust cutout, and WBO2, all while trying to clear chassis, brake master cyl, steering box, yet accounting for some engine movement. Not easy but looking pretty good. Will put up some pics once I have it all welded up.

 

 

 

 

[mrbigtanker]

Cuz you going fly up Mauna Kea in a heart beat,or saddle road is going get a new asshole torn in to it with this thing.Hawaiian

[Dzaster]

Cuz you going fly up Mauna Kea in a heart beat,or saddle road is going get a new asshole torn in to it with this thing.Hawaiian

Been a while since I been up that that beast of a mountain. And actually Saddle Road is getting a new hole per se. They opening a new connecting road closer to Kona. No doubt though I'm looking to have fun driving this one.

 

I've been making some progress on the weekends with what little free time I have. My family is very understanding and supportive. Gotta love that!

 

So here's mocking up the A2W intercooler. Clear hose from HomeDepot I had and is just for initial run. Lets me see the water is running with no/minimal air in it.

 

 

 

I have since tapped two NPT fittings on the intercooler as I'll be running a Prosport intercooler dual temp gauge. Wanting to monitor temp before and after IC.

 

Made a small cutout in the hood for a scoop and gave hood and scoop to my good braddah who does bodywork/paint for me to do up a fiberglass hood and integrate the scoop. The heat exchanger has a small 7" e-fan under it.

 

 

 

 

Got Areocatch's to fasten the hood. Probably do some struts to prop the hood.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Worked on the exhaust some.

 

DP.

 

 

 

 

Added bracing for the turbo exhaust housing flange to piping.

 

 

 

 

Going down!

 

 

 

 

DP braced to transmission bellhousing.

 

 

 

 

 

Electric exhaust cutout. Tried to keep it somewhat closer turbo but needed it to be behind the WBO2 as I'm going to use the WBO2 to also simulate the narrow band signal for the ECU. Mounting after the cutout might wig out the ECU.

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the piping after the exhaust cutout. While it's possible to get this section off/on in one piece it's not the easiest so I put V-band joint at the rear axle.

 

 

 

 

Didn't realize that FlowMaster mufflers weren't the best option for turbo so I have DynoMax Ultr-Flo and Race Mini Bullet mufflers on the way. Both are straigh-through design. The Ultra-Flo will replace the FlowMaster and the Race Mini Bullet will serve as the exhaust tip--hopefully with some muffling capabilities.

 

 

 

EGT thermocouple at the collector.

 

 

 

 

 

Painted manifold and turbine housing even though the turbo has a blanket and the exhaust F/G wrap.

 

 

 

Don't worry I didn't bake it in my oven. I baked it in someone else's. :angel:

 

 

I've been working on some other little things and parts keep coming in but I'll save for another post. I think there is a photo limit.

 

I sometimes feel all over the place with my parts ordering, and short on time on actually installing the stuff, but so far I've been able to stay pretty focused on doing portion-by-portion--i.e. suspension > brakes > intercooler > exhaust > etc.

[Dzaster]

Last weekend I worked on the oil pan. It needed to be tapped for the turbo oil drain/return fitting so it needed to come off. I was especially curious to see how they went converted the pan and oil pickup to rear sump.

 

Found that just hoisting up motor wasn't going to be enough, I needed to also drop the X-member.

 

 

 

 

 

Pan off and found no baffling. :confused: At least not where there should be some.

 

 

 

 

 

Modified pick to rear. Yeah I cleaned the screen. Seemed to be RTV remnants. haha.

 

 

 

 

 

Figured if the PO didn't have a problem with no baffling that whatever baffling I did add, wouldn't be a bad idea. So I just tacked some 1" pieces on each side to help with slosh on turns. Shouldn't be a problem on launches being rear sump.

 

 

 

 

 

Cleaned and painted.

 

 

 

 

Turbo oil drain 10an fitting. The fitting came with metal washers lined with rubber, but I just wanted to insure no leakage. Right Stuff gasket maker seems to be GOOD STUFF! Used some loc-tite as well on the threads.

 

 

 

 

 

It's back up now and X-member back together. Now I can start mounting things for actual driving as I shouldn't have to pull the motor until the rebuild--after insuring everything works, and works well.

 

[KyushaKai]

BEAAAASSSSSTTTTTTTTTT!!!!  Looks like the SOHC Hammah is gonna be a ton of fun once you get her going!