josh_t Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 what format are they? Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 They are DWG format. I used the free DWG viewer from the autodesk site and they seem to be fine to me, but then again I don't know what all they would need anyway Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=3276 Register at that site then use that link and the attachments will show up. The first attachment is a snapshot of all the flanges together, the others are the actual DWG files. I want the 5pc Oval so I plan to call up some other shops closer to ATL and ask them if they will run some. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 why would they look down on an AutoCAD file? AutoCAD is a very well known and widely supported program in just about any industry that uses CAD. My dad is a draftsman at a for a truss company and he uses AutoCAD. Solid Works uses DWG's. Thats a big program as well. I'd definitely look for a competent machine shop that can handle using a normal file format like that. My machine shop teacher in TN said if i designed anything at home using solid works or something like that, then he could put it in his computer and import it into his CAD-CAM program and it would work on the CNC mill or lathe we had there. And none of it was anything super special as far as CNC machining equipment goes. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 I don't know why they won't use it. It's probably too small of an order and they are just coming up with excuses. However, one of them did offer to measure my manifold and design a flange at $100 for the design and $40 for two sets of flanges. The guys over at the 1200 site put them up for sale occasionally so unless I find a decent price around here I'll just wait. Till then I can just run the 32/36. You did get me a little more interested in EFI though so I decided to take a look at extrudabody. While they don't offer a kit for the A-series they do offer a DCOE manifold and a I4 40-48mm EFI setup that fits dual DCOE manifolds. It is very expensive (about $1500 without injectors) but I bet it ould sound mean :devil: http://www.extrudabody.com/servlet/the-92/4-dsh-ITB-dsh-KIT-dsh-40-fdsh-45-fdsh-48mm-or-Twin-DCOE-fdsh-IDF-fdsh-IDA/Detail Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 My red headed step child is getting some love. Bought a weber to get it running temporarily. Contacted Steve at Bogg Brother's to have an R1 manifold made. He didn't have the oval port design so we are using the 5 piece oval port flange design from the 1200 forums. Gotta work on fuel lines and installing the fuel tank this week, changing all the fluids, and getting rid of the old mildewed carpet. Hopefully the weather cooperates with me. The weber should be here Thursday but I'll need to clean it up, new jets, the A-series adapter, and a rebuild kit. I'll still need headers and an exhaust but after that point it'll all be just dialing it in and getting it road worthy. Thinking about purchasing an LM2 to help with tuning so I can use it on the car and the LZ22 once it's finished for the 620. I'll post pics of the R1 manifold as soon as it's finished if Steve doesn't mind sending pics before it ships. I'm still waiting on his response as to wether we will be adding vacuum ports on all the runners or if he has some other idea. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 damnit... So I went to cross a few things off my list. Mostly looking for reason as to why the engine would "rev but not idle" according to the PO 2 owners ago. Barring the massive vacuum headache, would this cause those issues? That hose was the one between the valve cover and air filter, the breather hose from the block was stuffed with a bolt as well and lose on both ends. Lose enough to twist and pull off without losining anything. Atleast I know I'm datsuning right: four wheels, 8 lugs, tight shit yo! Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 Are you planning on pulling a Monkey going down the road? XD Loving it so far, just keep at it. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 Lol, it won't be going down the road for a while. If I can help it, it won't be going on the stock wheels ever again :P You can tell this car has been picked over a bit, and whoever did the A15 swap didn't care if it ran or not. It's gonna be a lot of fun trying to get it road worthy. Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 But that is half the fun yeah? I just got made a deal to get my hands on an h165 rear for mine. So I planning on an L swap once I get some space in my garage. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 boo, no l-series :( I thought about a lot of swaps and finally settled on just running the A15. I hadn't planned on spending a grand on just the intake and headers, but those are the two largest purchases until I start body work. Hell, even the carbs will only be 200-300 once everything is finished. On a side note, if anyone is looking for headers for the B210/210, get with Mark Stewart at Kirk racing. Trying to motivate him to find his jig so he can make me some of those beautiful headers that datsunfreak is running :P 1 Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 Why not? I think it will look and sound nice with dual Munki's! I had an SR20 but really, what I want t do and what I can do are two different things. I just want a nice running car that looks and sounds good. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 That's why I'm sticking with the A15. Low and slow with a good sound. R1 carbs and the right exhaust should get me what I want without too much fuss. The only reason I choose not to do an L series swap is I already have the A15 and a very decent head. If I can make 80hp I'll be happy for a while. Then I'll boost the hell out of it and swap something else in when it fails :P For me, my 620 will be my toy and the B210 will hopefully be a stylish cruiser. However, if I get transferred out of state, the LZ I'm building will most likely find it's way into the B210 since the 620 doesn't have a title. That will be all kinds of hell with the rear end. So, would it be possible to drop the oil pan without removing the engine? I want to make sure the 4-5 years of crud in the pan doesn't make it's way back through the engine. I'm open to suggestions on this as well as getting that jellied antifreeze out of the block. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 The top breather hose can not cause idling failure even if loose or blocked. Broken or disconnected fuel-cut solenoid is the usual cause on as B210. Another common cause is mis-adjusted carb. Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 That's why I'm sticking with the A15. Low and slow with a good sound. R1 carbs and the right exhaust should get me what I want without too much fuss. The only reason I choose not to do an L series swap is I already have the A15 and a very decent head. If I can make 80hp I'll be happy for a while. Then I'll boost the hell out of it and swap something else in when it fails :P For me, my 620 will be my toy and the B210 will hopefully be a stylish cruiser. However, if I get transferred out of state, the LZ I'm building will most likely find it's way into the B210 since the 620 doesn't have a title. That will be all kinds of hell with the rear end. So, would it be possible to drop the oil pan without removing the engine? I want to make sure the 4-5 years of crud in the pan doesn't make it's way back through the engine. I'm open to suggestions on this as well as getting that jellied antifreeze out of the block. Best person to hit up on this would be John. A.K.A Datsunfreak. He'd know for sure. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 There is a vacuum line that goes from the intake manifold, directly, to the air cleaner housing. Make sure that is pinched, or connected to the air cleaner. That will make your car stall, or idle. Peace Brother, and good luck! Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 Thats the hose that had the bolt in it lol. It's ok though, changing over to a weber and getting new hoses for everything. Just playing the waiting game with the UPS guy. Edit: D'oh, reread your statement... It is way to late to be ratsuning right now. Sorry, the breather tube was the one blocked, most of the vacuum hoses will be replaced due to being dry rotted. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 i'd remove all the hoses and cap everything off and see if itll idle better. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 Be sure not to cap the breather hoses. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Moree new stuffs. Got these today: Thinking of something like this for the recolor: Also, salvaged this from my old civic. Might be time to put it to good use :) GReddy 15g TD04 with custom ported elbow. Originally designed for a 1.6l civic, sounds perfect :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Lonestar Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Wow, you really getting on the ball with this build eh? Can't wait to see how your going to put that blow dryer on! :D Needs moar oic's and nutmeg. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 That blow dryer may be a long way off, depends on how long it takes Mr. Bogg to finish my mani, get it tuned NA, then have him make me a plenum for the R1s. I also have to figure out what I'l doing for a turbo mani. It will be a log, but not sure where my outlet needs to be to clear all the vitals under the hood. I was thinking something like a ford might work. Placing the outlet toward the rear a few inches down and away from the mani itself, but that might hit the column. Here is a picture of the general shape: Edit: linked the wrong picture... That's the right one Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 I would get a Chris Lyons A15 turbo manifold. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I looked at that one before, but when I spoke with clyons (think it's the same person at least) he wasn't sure about LHD vehicles. I know someone was talking about a top mount at one point but that;s not going to work for this turbo. Sadly GReddy too the 15g and modified it so that you can only clock it so much,. Top mount won't allow proper oil flow. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-Mount-Datsun-1200-1000-Turbo-Manifold-A12-A14-A15-/191081600330?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7d59d54a&_uhb=1 that one. I'ts a no go for me :( Quote Link to comment
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