izzo Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 No garden hose lol. Idk how long its been blown is the issue. Hoping the head and block are good. It's only and l16 but the head is a w53. I'll know more soon. Going to work on it over the next week after work. Luckily I have the b! When I did the the head gasket on the b I cleaned the passages best I could. Also chase head holes with just the head bolt, then a paper towel, then shot air in them with my compressor. So much shit blew out lol. Gonna do the same to this motor. I'll use a straight edge to check for warpage. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Well I was really hoping this wasn't the case. But, it is what it is. 1. 105 2. 40 3. 135 4. 130 It's possible that not having the coolant by-pass could cause this over time. The temp spikes before the thermostat opens. Just a possibility. The coolant line from the intake should have a 'Y' in it near the thermostat so the by-pass can connect to it. A jiggle valve or 1/8" hole on the edge of the thermostat should fix this. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 No garden hose lol. Idk how long its been blown is the issue. Hoping the head and block are good. It's only and l16 but the head is a w53. I'll know more soon. Going to work on it over the next week after work. Luckily I have the b! When I did the the head gasket on the b I cleaned the passages best I could. Also chase head holes with just the head bolt, then a paper towel, then shot air in them with my compressor. So much shit blew out lol. Gonna do the same to this motor. I'll use a straight edge to check for warpage. :lol: yeah amazing what comes out sometimes. Sounds ya got it covered :thumbup: Hopefully not electrolysis but could have been (a couple of mine were can't be stopped but just slowed right ? haha) IDK. take a peak at the core plugs while at it :sneaky: My bro is nice enough to let me use his Snap-On straight-edge so things go faster for me :) ( I don't trust mine haha ) Keep chugging man Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Take the head and the manifolds off together. Get help lifting it. Try not to tip upside down and disturb the carb. I did this by myself on my 620 a few years back. Held the head up at 60 degree angle and used a light wire wheel on an angle grinder to clean the head and block surfaces. Cleaned out the block threads with an old bolt with the threads ground down along the length with a dab of grease. Cost me $23 to replace the gasket. Here's what I used on my thermostat bolt holes to clean them. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 I'm chugging along. Slowly but surely. Am head strong about cruising in a dime again. Like I said. This week I'm doing the head gasket. Nice and slowly... Couple hours a night after work all week. Should be cruising by next weekend. Tho I'll probably just take it around locally for a few weeks to be sure the issue is resolved. New head gasket, new intake gasket, new water pump and new thermostat. If it has any more hetiing issues after that I'll take the rad to the shop. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Mike what kind of wire wheel? Afraid it will take the aluminum down. I've always used a razor Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 use anti seize on the T stat bolts. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 It was just a cheap thing that chucks into a drill. Fairly fine wire or copper/brass. Just lightly buff with it and the gasket flys off.You would have to seriously lean on it to mark the aluminum. If the manifolds are not leaking leave them bolted to the head. Less chance of breaking a stud or not getting them on tight. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Got an effed up wrist. idk if i can do it with the manifolds on, but really i guess its not that much heavier Motor was replaced a few years ago so bolts shouldn't be locked up. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Got an effed up wrist. idk if i can do it with the manifolds on, but really i guess its not that much heavier Motor was replaced a few years ago so bolts shouldn't be locked up. A-Frame lift or an Engine hoist the head off with manifolds (maybe?). Don't mess with your wrist/tendon's, you need to be back at 100% full fapping speed ... :lol: Quote Link to comment
Xnke Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Yeah, don't use any kind of whizz-wheel or wire wheel to remove a headgasket...that's asking for problems. Single edge razor blade, or better yet take it in to the shop and have them straighten the head, then deck the top and bottom faces. (yes, they will remove and re-fit the cam towers, and you should not fear that.) Don't cut just the bottom face, or you end up with a head that is flat on the block but is warped on the top deck...and a camshaft that is banana-shaped. Quote Link to comment
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