Found A Weber!!

[atkinson40]

Went to a SD carb rebuilder today. Asked about a 32/36.

 

He pulled out this.  Carb/Adapter. Carbs been rebuilt.  I'll need to figure out a throttle cable.

 

 

 

I got to talking about the problem I'm having with #3 cylinder not having an effect when I pull the plug wire at idle and he reiteracted someone else's suggestion in this forum in another post that there may be a vacumm leak in the #3 intake runner.

 

He didn't want to sell me the carb/adapter until I fixed the #3 cylinder problem.  He was worried about the carb not fixing my problem. 

 

I thought back to earlier about checking for a leak in the #3 intake runner and couldn't find any.

 

What I didn't think about was where the intake maniflod bolts to the head.  :blush:

 

I've had the head rebuilt and the mating surface resurfaced.  I had the mating surface on the manifold resurfaced.  Should be OK.  But maybe not.  I need to revisit that.

 

He said he would find the leak with a smoke machine.  I need to think how I can do it.  I'll inspect around the two mating surfaces first.

 

Maybe I could then hook up a shop vac backwards to the intake on the carb and blow down the carb while I have both valves closed on #3 cylinder.  Maybe I'll get lucky and it will whistle. B)   I could dribble soapy water around there also.   Any ideas?

 

I pestered him until he took pity on me and sold me the above pair for $100.  I wanted a weber anyway, and he said it's been on the shelf for years.  B)

 

Thanks kevin

[j_boy_619]

DUUDEUDE ! where in SD?

[atkinson40]

DUUDEUDE ! where in SD?

 

Me?  Bonita.  Carbs?  Ain't no more. :hmm:  Kevin

[racerx]

try going on Youtube and see if others done it with smoke machine. 

[j_boy_619]

That was the only weber?

[atkinson40]

try going on Youtube and see if others done it with smoke machine. 

 

If I could figure out a safe way to make smoke, :w00t:  I could put it on the intake of the shop vac, and it would blow out the exhaust.   Which I could hook up to the intake on the carb.  Maybe.  I don't want the fire marshal coming to my house.  B)

[atkinson40]

That was the only weber?

 

Sorry dude, but yes, that was the only one.  I've been hunting for a deal for awhile.  Every day, CL, JY, and now finally rebuilders. I kinda got burned a bit on CL.  I spent $50 for a weber missing the choke/linkage and a complete Hitachi.  

 

Hainz nailed it in my WTB post about buying someone else's problem.

 

 

I figure I made up for it on this score.  Good Luck  Kevin

[j_boy_619]

Nice find. Yeah, I'll probably be hitting up the JY this weekend.

 

Well congratz man, and for the smoke... maybe some dry ice? haha or those halloween fog machines.

[j_boy_619]

P.S. I wouldnt try the dry ice

[banzai510(hainz)]

That carb has the main barrel on the other side. used on the french cars or something

 

 

your manifold will have the holes on the oppisite side and sizes.

 

You ll figure it out.

most like the cable pull set up is from the other direction.

 

 

should have got standard type carb. you might still might not have gained on this one

[racerx]

lesson learned...

[racerx]

forgot to mention he can look up part number call weber direct and see what types of car the carb fits.

[racerx]

or I would return the weber and spend xtra bucks to get the right one and fit.

[nismosilvia]

Smoke machine? Sea foam will give you a smoke show lol

[atkinson40]

That carb has the main barrel on the other side. used on the french cars or something

 

 

your manifold will have the holes on the oppisite side and sizes.

 

You ll figure it out.

most like the cable pull set up is from the other direction.

 

 

should have got standard type carb. you might still might not have gained on this one

 

Thanks Hainz

I might not be the brightest bulb in the box, but I'm real friggin' persistant.  I hooked it up without even knowing about the hole size difference.  Just based the mounting on the way the accelerator would need to pull.  I looked down there after reading your post and I think I lucked out.  Main = Big Hole.

 

 

Pulled the Hitachi and hooked up the shop vac to blow down the intake trying to find a leak in the #3 runner. 

Vac was whinning like a bitch from not having anywhere to exit the air. I dribbled soapy water all around the head to manifold juction and nadda.  Not one single bubble/leak.

 

My brain was broke so I decided to mount the weber while it was cooling off.  I flipped the accelerator bracket and used the curved lever off the Hitachi.

 

Need To:

1. Hook up choke to power.  Where Please??

2. Get a longer accelerator cable.  JY tomorrow

3. Redrill a new hole for the accelerator cable so it lines up with the lever.

 

Fired it up.  Works fine.  EXCEPT.  Still have the friggin #3 cylinder problem.

 

OK, Here's where my junk is going to hang out in the wind. :blush: Back in the other thread someone suggested a leak in #3 runner.  I plugged the vacumm line going to the brake booster to eliminate it.    Didn't fix the problem.  Hooked it back up.

 

After failing to find a leak in the runner today, I decided to revisit that. Studied up.  Found that the booster should hold a vacumm.  Unhooked the line from the manifold to the check valve. Blew into the line.  Nope can't be done.   Good.  Sucked on the tube and WTF.  Booster doesn't hold a vacumm.  My booster has a leak :unsure: I must have had both a leaky Hitachi and a leaky booster.

 

Plugged the line from the manifold to the booster and the beast idles sweet. B) Yippie!!  I think I may have figured it out.  Will make a JY trip tomorrow for a cable and see if I can find a booster.

 

Only Datsun PU I see out there now is a '79.  Don't know if the booster from it will work.

 

Thanks kevin

[racerx]

elect. choke hook up to 12v source tied in to ignition.   Glad to hear it mounts okay..yes, persistance pays off. Good Luck..

[Sealik]

What made you decide which way to orient the carb on the motor?

 

 

I would of rotated it....linkage closest to firewall, fuel inlet up front

But then again...I don't know all the 'particulars'.

 

 

 

 

 

Sort of....

[hobbes_the_cat]

^ I think he had to rotate it that way for it to fit on the manifold. His carb is not the normal DGAV that most guys use so the barrels and linkage are located differently.

[atkinson40]

Dahum Sealik, I dog my motor to keep it clean,(OCD) but yours makes me ........jealous. :thumbup:

 

What made you decide which way to orient the carb on the motor?

 

I  mounted it based on which way the throttle rotated and the cable would have to pull.

 

I didn't know crappola about the different hole sizes in the manifold as Hainz pointed out.

 

I think I lucked out though. Main = Big Manifold Hole.

 

Hainz says this carb is ars backwards from the standard ones.

 

Thanks kevin

[banzai510(hainz)]

If its working thats good

the hole size is the manifold hole looking down the 32 is the smaller and it should be the inner side hole then the out side is the bigger. pretty EZ to figure out. I seen where they put it on rotated 180 as the other DGVs and the bigger 2nd butterfly gets jammed up in the smaller manifold hole. So they need to get hogged out to clear if a short carb adapter is used .

 

I myself havent seen it rotated like Atkison has but that  it might be perfect except for the cable length. Here is where I say get the correct carb as in the end it still might come out the same in cost..

also moving the cable pull hole over is what I have done also so the cable lines up perfect. or shimming th carb side with washes to help move it out(the cable pulley)

 

the 72 should have a wire for the choke as they went elelctric so there should be a wire from the fire wall. if you had a stock carb on there you should know where the wire is already.

or ck olddatsuns.com the tech section for the diagram

 

as for the brake booster going bad. Sometimes if they leak and its hooked up to the manifold for vaccum they will blow white smake as it sucks up the brake fluid. See this on a old Volvo p1800. we thought we had a blown head gasket. find out the brake fluid was diassappearing. Ck the brakes then we figured it out later(Dumbasses)

[atkinson40]

If its working thats good

the hole size is the manifold hole looking down the 32 is the smaller and it should be the inner side hole then the out side is the bigger. pretty EZ to figure out. I seen where they put it on rotated 180 as the other DGVs and the bigger 2nd butterfly gets jammed up in the smaller manifold hole. So they need to get hogged out to clear if a short carb adapter is used .

 

I myself havent seen it rotated like Atkison has but that  it might be perfect except for the cable length. Here is where I say get the correct carb as in the end it still might come out the same in cost..

also moving the cable pull hole over is what I have done also so the cable lines up perfect. or shimming th carb side with washes to help move it out(the cable pulley)

 

the 72 should have a wire for the choke as they went elelctric so there should be a wire from the fire wall. if you had a stock carb on there you should know where the wire is already.

or ck olddatsuns.com the tech section for the diagram

 

as for the brake booster going bad. Sometimes if they leak and its hooked up to the manifold for vaccum they will blow white smake as it sucks up the brake fluid. See this on a old Volvo p1800. we thought we had a blown head gasket. find out the brake fluid was diassappearing. Ck the brakes then we figured it out later(Dumbasses)

 

Thanks Hainz

 

Found an accelerator cable at the JY that will hook up to the original weber lever without the Hitachi wheel type lever. 

 

I was racking my brain about how to fit both levers on there.  I need the weber, because it pulls down a little arm.

 

I needed the Hitachi, because it fit the cable.  The nut to hold them barely went on.  I didn't like it.

 

The cable's also long enough to reach.  2 birds, one stone.  2 dollars.

 

The cable came from a Toyota.  I hope the Datsun immune system doesn't kick in and reject it. :rofl:

 

I struck out at the JY, Autozone, and Oreilly's finding a power booster. 

 

But I did suck on the vacumm ports on a couple of JY ones that were Datsun, and close to mine.  They held vacumm.

 

I feel pretty sure that mine's hosed.  It don't hold vacumm.

 

Rock has them for $75, but by the time I pay shipping here, shipping for the core back, I'm up to $105.

 

This is what PEP Boys wanted special order so I just bought it from them.

 

I'm up to $102 for the Weber conversion.  Don't know what the air filter will cost.

 

My Hitachi was rigged with a manual choke, but  I'll look for the wire.

 

Thanks kevin

[atkinson40]

Hooked up the Throttle cable.

 

 

Going to add a threaded coupler at the firewall to give that junction more support.

 

I shortened the cable and currently have a hose clamp holding it to the peddle. 

 

I think they make tiny cable clamps that I can secure it to the peddle with.

 

Have to wait for the booster to come for test drive, but can definately tell a difference when I pull #3 plug wire with the booster vacumm plugged.

 

Need to read up on the idle mixture adjustment.

 

Thanks kevin

[banzai510(hainz)]

looks good

only thing look abit funky is the aircleaner platform. Most DGVs the lower part can be removed to fit the standard lower aircleaner assembles. I cant tell if your is removable and you can put the standard type on or this is cast in the main part of the carb.

But Im sre you can find soemthing from webercarbsdirect or Pierce manifold or where ever they sell DGVs

[racerx]

that carb he has actually looks like a holley 5200.  Back in the days Holley/weber had some kind of partnership and maybe this filter will work:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-56-1010-Fomoco-Motorcraft-2bbl-Holley-5200-Air-Cleaner-Assemblies-/360558088486?hash=item53f2efd126&item=360558088486&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

[atkinson40]

looks good

only thing look abit funky is the aircleaner platform. Most DGVs the lower part can be removed to fit the standard lower aircleaner assembles. I cant tell if your is removable and you can put the standard type on or this is cast in the main part of the carb.

But Im sre you can find soemthing from webercarbsdirect or Pierce manifold or where ever they sell DGVs

 

Thanks Hainz

 

I found where the choke came from the ignition switch and wired it up. 

 

Originally this 12V was also switched through a relay energized by the alternator. 

 

I guess maybe to keep from running the battery low if you just had the switch on.  I eliminated the relay. 

 

For me, that was just another point that could fail. 

 

I reckon  I be smart enough to remember I've got the choke on when I turn on the key.

 

My brain was starting to hurt trying to figure out a way to put an "off the shelf cleaner" on the carb.

 

Thought about making or buying and adapter.  Finally I went out and jammed on the one I had on the Hitachi and YIPPIE!!

 

It ain't pretty, but I can't pull it off, and maybe my weak brain will stumble upon something else later. B)

 

 

Thanks kevin

 

PS:  Just looking at this picture,  I realized I could drill a couple of holes in the metal base of the filter that lined up with the holes in the carb and eliminate the clamp and zip ties by running a screw down to the carb holes.  The big rubber thing at the bottom of the filter molds itself around the lip on the carb making a tight seal.  Dahum.  Almost like I knew what I was doing. :rofl: