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A concerning timing issue.....


d510addict

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Ok here are my pics of things, to start off I approximated tdc based on the end of the compression stroke (cyclinder 1 cam lobes in a V shape) then gently held a screwdriver in the spark plug hole and wiggled the crank back and forth until i was absolute tdc.

 

First off my timing plate/crank pulley

IMAG0135_zpscef60e0c.jpg

It is tough to see but it is lined up exactly

I agree. It's at TDC compression stroke.

 

Here is my cam timing

IMAG0132_zps3aa45d80.jpg

I think this is correct but say something if I am wrong

Again I agree this is close enough. V should be just below or slightly to the right of the horizontal etch mark on the cam thrust plate. This just says that the chain isn't stretched too bad. It would still run if over on the left side but not as well. Has nothing to do with ignition timing but good to know.

 

Here is my Dizzy

IMAG0136_zpsa9909c22.jpg

While the Dizzy is clocked nearly all the way counter clockwise it can go far enough to get me to like 20 deg btdc right now I am at 3. So it is def off a bit but does that make a difference? 

As long as the adjustment range is able to be set at 12 degrees it's good.

 

 

Maybe borrow a second timing light that doesn't have adjustable advance. I've never used one so I wouldn't know if you are using it properly or not.

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Yes but how much is too much?

Ok I have an l20b bored .030 over with an A87 open chambered head that has something around .040 taken off of it. I use an EI dizzy and a 32/36 weber everything else is fairly stock. My problem is when I set my timing to 10 deg btdc my 521 won't do anything past an idle. It basically wont run. So I set it back to 5 deg and it pings highest ive run is 3 deg btdc without pinging.


That's a 0.030" overbore and a head shave of 0.040"???? If so I run the numbers and the compression is 9.222. Even that high you should be able to run more than 5 degrees.

You say it idles at 10-12 degrees but above idle it's crap???

TRY RUNNING AT 12 DEGREES BUT LEAVE YOUR VACUUM ADVANCE HOSE OFF.

 

Maybe the vacuum advance goes full advance as soon as you go above idle? Instead of one or two degrees it goes right up to full?

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I think your motor is mechanically set fine.

Its a carb or dizzy issue.

 

if you can adjust between 0-20 Deg BTDC your OK

 

 

carb main jet maybe be plugged?

Try running with the CHoke ON and see if the RPMs go up(maybe run it cold whole the choke is still On if you have a eleltric choke or pull the elelctric wire to the choke. this will enright the carb thru the 2nd barrel and maybe make it run above idle.

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So I fucked up my control test by putting premium in (been going back and forth for 6 months trying to compare) and heres what happened. The car was drivable at 10 deg of advance but it was surging and pinging badly, at 5 deg it runs like a top. I tried both settings with vacuum advance on and off and nothing changes. Maybe the head has been taken down more than I thought?

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Oh I have no idea just got it at baxters. My coil hasnt felt hot (coil is from an EI z car so it should be correct), and after driving at 5 deg btdc for a bit I am noticing pinging. I'll do some more messing around with it. I have another head I could try out after a quick refresh, yall think that it would be a wise choice do to so? I am starting to second guess some of the stuff I "know" about the current head as I've had many other problems with it.

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With valve lash properly set and...

Ignition timing properly set...

 

 

Set the idle speed screw as low as you can. It's the one to the back and near the throttle.

 

Find the idle mixture screw just forward of it on the base of the carb body. Turn it in and out finding the middle point where the idle speed is smoothest and fastest.

 

Turn the idle speed down and repeat the mixture screw adjustment. 

Turn the idle speed down and repeat the mixture screw adjustment. 

Turn the idle speed down and repeat the mixture screw adjustment. 

Do this as many times as needed to get the idle down at about 750-800RPMs... and when you can't improve on it any more you're done.

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They are dished pistons, the head is old and has been abused for many many years. It very well could be that it has more meat taken off than what I can account for. Grandpa had it shaved .030" 18+ years ago then ran hard in a 620 for years. When I got it it was sitting for 7-8 years so I took it in had it pressure tested and checked for straightness. All but 1 valve guide was fine that guide was basically replaced with a custom guide. So that .040" I listed was basically me taking a guess at what has truly been removed. Its been milled twice as far as I know post that .030" shave so .040" ought to be a good guess.

 

I set my carb per Mikes instructions but it was about as spot on as it can get by my ear, I checked the zcar coil for signs of heating up and it was at an ambiant temp. I had to drop my timing back down as it was pinging at 5 deg. I'd like to try out a known working EI dizzy to see if maybe that is the issue but I don't know anyone that can help and I havent been able to nab 1 at the PnP. If I cannot solve the issue I think I may look for an operable head and send it in for a refresh.

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Try another dizzy first.

maybe try to find soem 100 octane gas and see if you can up the timming.

 

If they pressure ck the head you have to assume its good.

 

open chamber pistons and .040shave  should not make it that high compression. Im thinking youd be lucky to even hittin 9 to 1 compression if you bout l20 11.35 cc pistons. as a stock L20 is about 8.4 to 1

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