ohmrchristopher Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 If you dont know my build here it is Kiiro. So its running (kinda), insured and [somewhat] safe. Now what? I would like to go lower, which means I need a different configuration in the front. Who was/is making extended shock towers? Was that Beebani? I already have Pinto shocks in the front but I want to go down a bit more, the Pintos have about 1" of travel and do ride smooth, aside from big potholes and bumps. Is there any strain to the front being that low? And is it a better idea to just to a ball-joint swap? In the rear I have 3" blocks already, I could do 4" but personally I dont like that. I remember reading the 4x4 datto rear spring had a different arch, so you can get the same low without a lot of blocks? I have already spaced my driveshaft carrier bearing 1" away from the crossmember to help with the angle. I need to "C" notch the rear frame to go lower as I only have about 2" of travel and if I load it up that goes to 0" very quick. :( I see/read a lot of trucks are on bags, is this just the easiest way? I guess one would need a ball-joint front end? I have some plans for the interior, mostly carpet and some creature comforts like better lights/gauges/radio. Engine! I want a L24 engine from a Skyline/240z I didnt see anyone on here with that swap yet, any opinions? Quote Link to comment
Dat Lurka Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Use the google search. There's a few hundred threads on 620 lowering. An L24 will fit if you either relocate the radiator or hack up the firewall. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Engine wont fit too well. Too long. Doable, but lots of modification. And L24? why stop there? just go L28... Quote Link to comment
Dat Lurka Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Well it's not "lots" of modifications. You just need a little more room. But yes, go ahead and get a l28 3.1 stroker with triple webers. It's all or nothing. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Have you seen the pictures of a L6 in a 620? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Well it's not "lots" of modifications. You just need a little more room. But yes, go ahead and get a l28 3.1 stroker with triple webers. It's all or nothing. Little more involved than just finding some extra room. There is a thread somewhere with the L6 in a 620....kept the firewall intact Quote Link to comment
Dat Lurka Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 I've seen an l28 in a 620. The radiator was moved forward and I think the mounts were too. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Your memory is a bit optimistic. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26947-project-620z/ Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Get a KA.... it fits, is lighter, makes more power than an L24, has EFI and will run upside down and gives better mileage. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 If you dont know my build here it is Kiiro. So its running (kinda), insured and [somewhat] safe. Now what? I would like to go lower, which means I need a different configuration in the front. Who was/is making extended shock towers? Was that Beebani? I already have Pinto shocks in the front but I want to go down a bit more, the Pintos have about 1" of travel and do ride smooth, aside from big potholes and bumps. Is there any strain to the front being that low? And is it a better idea to just to a ball-joint swap? I extended my shock towers 2", it helped immensly. Kingpins are probably better for lowering as ball joints tend to bind at extreme angles, this can be minimized though with drop spindles. In the rear I have 3" blocks already, I could do 4" but personally I dont like that. I remember reading the 4x4 datto rear spring had a different arch, so you can get the same low without a lot of blocks? I have already spaced my driveshaft carrier bearing 1" away from the crossmember to help with the angle. I need to "C" notch the rear frame to go lower as I only have about 2" of travel and if I load it up that goes to 0" very quick. :( 4x4 720 springs do seem to be the ticket, you will need to notch the frame. I see/read a lot of trucks are on bags, is this just the easiest way? I guess one would need a ball-joint front end? Bags require a lot of fabrication, the easist way is extended shock towers in the front and the 4x4 springs with a little bit of block with a small notch out back. I have some plans for the interior, mostly carpet and some creature comforts like better lights/gauges/radio. Engine! I want a L24 engine from a Skyline/240z I didnt see anyone on here with that swap yet, any opinions? I agree with Mike on the KA, I am a bit biased though. :) Hope that helps :) Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 Helped a lot. All I wanted was some quick info. I don't want to waste time reading pages for bags and then decided its too much work. I don't mind notching my frame and extendeding the towers. Did you extend them yourself or buy some extended? A balljoint conversion seems hard as I have a hard time getting parts for this truck. There are not a lot of wrecked hardbodys here so I don't even know where I would start the conversion. Quote Link to comment
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