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should I get new drum shoes?


CFHdatsun77

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That's a pretty large bit.

 

I'd say for the cost of shoes, go ahead and do it.

 

 

 

 

FYI, i've found the easiest way to put shoes on a 620 is to attach the springs to the shoe and stretch the shoes over the adjuster/wheel cylinder. More leverage means less effort.

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The rear brakes only do about 20% of the braking. Unless you're hauling heavy loads where you need every bit of braking, I'd just run it like that and check it again in a couple of months. Unless it's in the crown of the shoe. If it's one of the ends, I personally, would run it. But...as metal said.....they're pretty cheap since you're already familiar with changing them, now would be a good time.

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I had the linings fall off perfectly intact. They do delaminate.

 

But, here's the thing. If the missing section is up by the wheel cylinder or in the middle of the shoe, don't even think about re-using that shoe. If it's down by the adjuster, in the bottom half, you probably can get away with it. But shoes are so inexpensive (under $30 at RockAuto) there's no reason to keep suspect shoes.

 

I just replaced the rear shoes on my Mom's 620. Yeah, that bar is a pain in the ass. But it's still FAR easier to attach the springs first then lever the shoes onto the wheel cyl and adjuster than to try and stretch the spring alone. Usually just end up slipping, breaking the spring, or, as you just did, breaking part of the shoe off using a clamp-lever spring tool. The spring tools I've seen assume you have rivited shoes. To add to the fun, the spring kit my Mom got had anti-rattle spring posts that were too short (or too tall of springs) so we had to reuse the old ones. Fortunately they're just anti-rattle springs.

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