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Oak Leaf :rofl:

 

Old Ford I6's are great engines ! 7-main bearings ... I'm wide-eyed by the bearing size selection made available for these lol

Even the Fuel Injected I6's up to 96 are long living engines...

I've rolled in bearings into 1 of them after jacking up engine... pulling the pan ... BAM ! pretty straight-forward

I personally think the bearing's take a beating on that long of stroke/what the bearings look like afterwords ( wear pattern , but most look good ! )

Even the famous ford start-up "rattle" is so universal as many people that own them mention it lol ...yet the fuckers keep going lol

Seen the I6's with high miles keep rolling and driving !

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Oak Leaf :rofl:

 

Old Ford I6's are great engines ! 7-main bearings ... I'm wide-eyed by the bearing size selection made available for these lol

Even the Fuel Injected I6's up to 96 are long living engines...

I've rolled in bearings into 1 of them after jacking up engine... pulling the pan ... BAM ! pretty straight-forward

I personally think the bearing's take a beating on that long of stroke/what the bearings look like afterwords ( wear pattern , but most look good ! )

Even the famous ford start-up "rattle" is so universal as many people that own them mention it lol ...yet the fuckers keep going lol

Seen the I6's with high miles keep rolling and driving !

 

Theres a guy down the road with an 86' with I6. Hes going on 400k on original engine. A few years back the hg blew and I helped him do one of those crazy three part flush repair deals and it worked. He drives it every day.

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I'm picking up a 1969 L16 with 69k this weekend. It's been sitting an estimated 15 years and it turns trough without a problem. It's a long block but everything else is in a box. The best part is I'm paying what it will cost just to get the head done on the L20b. I assume it will bolt in no problem.

Oh, and it has a finned valve cover B)

When I can afford to build the L20, the L16 manifolds will be a replacement for the crap L20 smog ones.

 

And I assume the l16 will get better fuel mileage than the 226k miles L20

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When I do the rebuild it will probably come out to a 2.1 because it really really really need to be bored.

I expect it to someday be a 2.4 with 1,000,000,000 miles.

 

To get to 2.4 liters you would have to bore it out until the pistons touched. There are no 95.25mm L series pistons. Realistically you might bore an L20B out to 89mm... (2,138cc) But that's 1.5mm off all the way round the bore. Cylinder walls are getting thin...

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L20b ..6 bolt flywheel

L16 .. 5 bolt flywheel

 

 

and if it sat 15 years the head gasket will undoubtedly blow if not replaced.

 

Why should the headgasket be bad from sitting?

It's already a long block. I can swap out for the new headgasket no biggy.

 

To get to 2.4 liters you would have to bore it out until the pistons touched. There are no 95.25mm L series pistons. Realistically you might bore an L20B out to 89mm... (2,138cc) But that's 1.5mm off all the way round the bore. Cylinder walls are getting thin...

 

 

Stroke it.

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Well you said bored.

 

When I do the rebuild it will probably come out to a 2.1 because it really really really need to be bored.

I expect it to someday be a 2.4 with 1,000,000,000 miles.

 

You can get to 2.3 with KA or Z24 pistons and Z22 crank/rods.

 

The Z24 crank won't fit without lots of cutting, then you need a really short rod/piston to match.

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Why should the headgasket be bad from sitting?

It's already a long block. I can swap out for the new headgasket no biggy.

 

Coolant gets acidic over time.

Hell, coolant more than 7 years old on a daily vehicle will even eat a block, head, water pump, radiator, heater core, thermostat, and hoses alive.

Add in the fact that it is a 15 year old plus chemical compound. Newer coolant's don't do this quite as fast as older coolants with a different/inferior chemical make-up.

 

If someone was to plan on letting a vehicle sit over time, it would be wise to drain the coolant.

 

Iron blocks rust. Aluminum heads will go through electrolysis. Head gasket will get eaten.

 

Better safe than sorry.

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Good motor.

Rock what you can.

 

You're not really in a place known for Datsuns.

 

How much are you getting that L16 in a box for?

 

720's should be abundant in your area.

Cruise the yards for a Z22 from a 1981-1982 720.

Go from there.

 

170$ shipped halfway.

 

720s are all rusted out and rednecked to hell.

The only nice ones are the diesels.

There's a decent amount of 620s. A few 210s. And as many Z cars as anywhere else.

I'm leaving this shithole ASAP and going down south to take care of a few things. Then I'm gonna make my way west.

And pretty much so I can play with more datsuns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and the weed.

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170$ shipped halfway.

 

720s are all rusted out and rednecked to hell.

 

Who cares the 720's are rusted out?

Wait! You do. The motor's will be fine and newer than that L16.

I'm sure you can find a Z22 truck motor for the cost of that L16.

 

Your freshly rebuilt cylinder head on top of a Z22 motor makes for one hell of a little ripper!

 

LZ? Yes, please.

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Who cares the 720's are rusted out?

Wait! You do. The motor's will be fine and newer than that L16.

I'm sure you can find a Z22 truck motor for the cost of that L16.

 

Your freshly rebuilt cylinder head on top of a Z22 motor makes for one hell of a little ripper!

 

LZ? Yes, please.

 

If I can find a z22 for 100$ then yeah that might be possible.

Head job's gonna cost 100$

It's gonna cost me just under 200$ to go get that L16

 

 

 

But I'm sure I can find a good Z22 for less than rebuilding the L20b.

So my U67 on top of a Z22 will make a pretty sweet 4 banger?

that's an option for the future

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Because it has 226k miles and the cylinders are so worn the the pistons sit to one side of them :rofl:

Last I checked the rebuild without timing kit is 221$

 

Plus the price of a bore.

Price of oversized pistons if your kit doesn't have them.

Bearings for the rebuild need to be bought/sized when block is being machined.

New timing kit.

This can go on for a while.

 

Adds up fast.

For the price of a correct rebuild, you can go KA.

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Plus the price of a bore.

Price of oversized pistons if your kit doesn't have them.

Bearings for the rebuild need to be bought/sized when block is being machined.

New timing kit.

This can go on for a while.

 

Adds up fast.

For the price of a correct rebuild, you can go KA.

 

It will need to be bored.

Timing is new.

With the kit and machine work it will still be under 400$.

I wouldn't go KA that defeats the purpose.

If I wanna go fast I'll go get my roadster and put an R1 engine in it B)

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