Draynor Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 When I first got my 510 wagon the brakes were pretty much not there. So I replaced the pads,shoes and bled the brakes so I could roll it off and on the trailer till I got it to my new garage. So now that I have had it running a while I decided to replace both rear wheel cylinders (One was leaking bad). After I replaced them the pedal still felt the same going pretty much straight to the floor. But if you pump it two or three times then brake it will get stiffer and stop quick. I know the right rear drum somehow keeps leaking fluid out of the end of the brake line. So my questions are... How do I fix the leaking of that brake line? Do you know what the problem is with the brakes only having some pressure when you pump it? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 If the cylinders were replaced then the line threads are stripped. Just get a new line and replace it. Soft peddle could also be that the rear brake shoes have not been adjusted manually closer to the drums. There is a star shaped wheel on the bottom adjuster. Turn it out to spread the shoes wider till they rub the drums when turning by hand. Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Soft peddle could also be that the rear brake shoes have not been adjusted manually closer to the drums. There is a star shaped wheel on the bottom adjuster. Turn it out to spread the shoes wider till they rub the drums when turning by hand. :confused: Star shaped? On a 510? None that I have ever owned :sneaky: Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Hey Mike, Thanks for the help. So your saying replace that whole brake line or just the screw it goes into? Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 :confused: Star shaped? On a 510? None that I have ever owned :sneaky: What does the adjuster look like for you? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 :confused: Star shaped? On a 510? None that I have ever owned :sneaky: Yeah that right it's a 510. Well just the 'adjuster' then. It's a square shaped peg on the back side of the backing plate. Hey Mike, Thanks for the help. So your saying replace that whole brake line or just the screw it goes into? Well it screws into the brake cylinder and you said you replaced it earlier so just the brake line. You can take it off and roughly measure the length and buy them pre made at auto supply shops. Get the same length or nearest over-size. Make sure the fittings are out near the ends before you make any bends. Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 What does the adjuster look like for you? about a 1/4 inch wrench size at the top of the dust cover(upper) Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Yeah that right it's a 510. Well just the 'adjuster' then. It's a square shaped peg on the back side of the backing plate. They do like to seize up, I suggest pulling it off and applying the lube of preference,then anti seize the threads Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Check soft lines. Check hard-lines. any wetness of that particular area of the brake line should be a clear indication. Visually check your Brake master. make sure it is not leaking out the back and all over into/on the brake booster. (Look at the paint) Use flare nut wrenches wrorking on brake lines (good ones! ) Make sure all is tight as far as brake lines. Those suckers shuld be snug. Make sure nothing is cross threaded. *100% repeat what datzenmike said here* Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Its a square coming out of the to of the drum on the back. Make sure to hit it with pb blaster for a day or 2 before attempting to turn it, no need to round off the square. Does your parking brake work? If no then drums need to be adjusted. If yes, well maybe they still need to be adjusted and someone just adjusted the parking brake cable itself. err, it said only 2 had replied, then there were 5 more posts by the time I posted... Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 about a 1/4 inch wrench size at the top of the dust cover(upper) Thanks. They do like to seize up, I suggest pulling it off and applying the lube of preference,then anti seize the threads I got plenty of lube. Yeah that right it's a 510. Well just the 'adjuster' then. It's a square shaped peg on the back side of the backing plate. Well it screws into the brake cylinder and you said you replaced it earlier so just the brake line. You can take it off and roughly measure the length and buy them pre made at auto supply shops. Get the same length or nearest over-size. Make sure the fittings are out near the ends before you make any bends. The brake line is just sitting inside the screw that threads into the cylinder and it is leaking at that point. Is it supposed to be that way? It is not tight in there either it moves around a little. Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Thanks everybody for the help! The parking brake does work. Haven't checked the master yet. Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Thanks. I got plenty of lube. The brake line is just sitting inside the screw that threads into the cylinder and it is leaking at that point. Is it supposed to be that way? It is not tight in there either it moves around a little. Probably the wrong flare on brake line or stripped wheel cylinder Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Probably the wrong flare on brake line or stripped wheel cylinder Yeah it just doesn't look like it is meant to be there. The other line is real snug in there. So it looks like a new line is in the works and a little adjusting hopefully this fixes the problem. I have been getting tired of having to pump the brakes before I wan't to stop. Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Yeah it just doesn't look like it is meant to be there. The other line is real snug in there. So it looks like a new line is in the works and a little adjusting hopefully this fixes the problem. I have been getting tired of having to pump the brakes before I wan't to stop. I am leaning to a incorrect flare, or a imperial threaded line Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Thanks. I got plenty of lube. The brake line is just sitting inside the screw that threads into the cylinder and it is leaking at that point. Is it supposed to be that way? It is not tight in there either it moves around a little. Maybe the wrong brake cylinder???? Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Well I just went out to double check my thinking. And the line actually isn't as loose as I thought. But it is definitely leaking at that point and doesn't look like the master is leaking but it is loosing fluid in the cylinder closer to the radiator. When I got the new cylinders they looked exactly the same as the old ones. Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Blown wheel cyl.. Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Blown wheel cyl.. Damn, its brand new. Really think so? Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Damn, its brand new. Really think so? Not really, but it may not have seated properly in the cyl(rubber) and cheapo aftermarket shit is a real hit and miss,specially if from china Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Not really, but it may not have seated properly in the cyl(rubber) and cheapo aftermarket shit is a real hit and miss,specially if from china Can you buy new screws that go into the cylinder? Cause its pretty rounded out. So you think I should replace the line and then go from there? Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Can you buy new screws that go into the cylinder? Cause its pretty rounded out. So you think I should replace the line and then go from there? the bleader? yes you can buy them Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 No the brake line goes into this screw that goes into the wheel cylinder. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Can you buy new screws that go into the cylinder? Cause its pretty rounded out. So you think I should replace the line and then go from there? Yes sir you can buy new brake line nuts. My zcars use m10x1.0 thread but I'm not sure what yours does sorry lol. It would probably be best to buy a pre-manufactured metric or standard brake line (not sure what yours is ... or if has been changed ... should be metric ) unless you already have a metric brake flare tool. It is easy to push a nut inline and flare a brake line. Napa is usually pretty good about matching up something for me. If your very VERY careful ... you can use vise grips to screw/un-screw a stubborn or rounded brake line nut ... no its not the best practice ... yes it is the last thing you want to do (hardline not softline! ) I have had to do it a couple times in a pinch...never a problem after ... (sorry to pro's and more experience mech's out there ... I will punish thyself later lol) Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Yes sir you can buy new brake line nuts. My zcars use m10x1.0 thread but I'm not sure what yours does sorry lol. If your very VERY careful ... you can use vise grips to screw/un-screw a stubborn or rounded brake line nut ... no its not the best practice ... yes it is the last thing you want to do (hardline not softline! ) I have had to do it a couple times in a pinch...never a problem after ... (sorry to pro's and more experience mech's out there ... I will punish thyself later lol) amen.. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.