Sohc ka ---->79 210

[datsunfreak]

after hearing that the stock diff couldnt take any torque or abuse atleast with mine its been great ever since I got the ka in and started beating it and launching it

 

This makes me happy. Was thinking KA24E in mine but was waffling a bit. If the stock diff will hold up at least for awhile, I may go ahead and do the KA swap...

[CWhip]

Good to hear! So I can quit worrying about my H165 then, it should hold up just fine. I'm not planning on a turbo for awhile. What did you end up doing with the front sway bar? Space it down?

[ggzilla]

Even the B110 H145 unit can hold up for a while. But when it's least convenient ... boom! Hopefully you won't be stuck somewhere. 210 has the stronger H150.

 

H165 might last a long time. But Nissan wouldn't warranty one anything larger than 2-liter engine.

[drowning in broken cars]

Even the B110 H145 unit can hold up for a while. But when it's least convenient ... boom! Hopefully you won't be stuck somewhere. 210 has the stronger H150.

 

H165 might last a long time. But Nissan wouldn't warranty one anything larger than 2-liter engine.

Oh yea definitely, dont get me wrong, I tried my damnedest to find a 195 but theres just nothing around. did it out of necessity never planned to even boost it with this diff, I know it wont last forever. just saying, depending on your use and driving style using the stock rear h150 with just a stock ka swap it should be okay to atleast get your swap going. i just had a ds welded up and il cut and do it again when I get a h195 or ford axle

[datsunfreak]

H165 might last a long time. But Nissan wouldn't warranty one anything larger than 2-liter engine.

 

Wouldn't it stand to reason that if the R160 can handle a KA24E, a VG30E, and a 200hp SR20DET without failing that the H165 would?

 

Bearing in mind if I do the KA swap, I'll keep a few spare diffs around... :rofl:

[drowning in broken cars]

maybe I just got a good one lol. fortunately Im hoping to find a cheap ford axle or Ive even been dreaming about welding up mounting points for a whole 240sx IRS subframe down. anyone ever done this?

[jesusno2]

what are you using for fuel/ign managment?

[drowning in broken cars]

450cc rx7 fc injectors, afpr, some ford v8 truck inline pump I had kicking around, wideband and safc, running n60 maxima maf blowthrough. stock ignition timing

[drowning in broken cars]

hopefully in spring Im gonna be going with an R S enthalpy tune, If I had known how cheap they are I would have done that in the first place

[dez]

you should look in to nistune before setting your mind on a rom tune

[jesusno2]

whats your afr at full boost idle and cruise? reason i ask is i have a boosted hard body here that leans out horribly bad at steady throttle or cruise idles at about 11.1 10.5.1 and full boost its about 10.5.1 but cruise (or steady throtttle) it pegs off the scale lean 17.9 + thats with a aem piggy back I have no idea how to tune lol.

[drowning in broken cars]

Im sure theyre better but for what Im doing and with forged dohc pistons and the resulting low as hell comp ratio a rom tune will be cheap and plug n play, can tweek it a bit with safc if need be, its already fast as shit at 10 lbs not looking to make much more power, maybe have the option of running 15 or so. I dont think id ever run more than that.

[drowning in broken cars]

whats your afr at full boost idle and cruise? reason i ask is i have a boosted hard body here that leans out horribly bad at steady throttle or cruise idles at about 11.1 10.5.1 and full boost its about 10.5.1 but cruise (or steady throtttle) it pegs off the scale lean 17.9 + thats with a aem piggy back I have no idea how to tune lol.

cruise, idle, are 14.5-14.7 and im 11 on boost. I know nothing of tuning with an aem setup, only things Ive messed with are safcs, my buddys jackal on his gvr4, and a maf translator on my supra. is it still maf I assume?

[jesusno2]

Yea a big one too no idea what its from either 350z i think

[drowning in broken cars]

hmmm and what size injectors

[dez]

Im sure theyre better but for what Im doing and with forged dohc pistons and the resulting low as hell comp ratio a rom tune will be cheap and plug n play, can tweek it a bit with safc if need be, its already fast as shit at 10 lbs not looking to make much more power, maybe have the option of running 15 or so. I dont think id ever run more than that.

 

Are you buying their ECU? because $400 for the ECU and $150 for every re-tune will start adding up quick and running a summer tune on a winter fuel blend is going to be asking for trouble OR nistune is in the $500 area and soldering the board into the OEM ecu is just as easy as doing a rom chip, plus you will be able to retune as much as you need to and will be able to manipulate timing tables as well as any other parameter you would need to..but hey its just a suggestion

[dez]

maybe I just got a good one lol. fortunately Im hoping to find a cheap ford axle or Ive even been dreaming about welding up mounting points for a whole 240sx IRS subframe down. anyone ever done this?

 

i might attempting to get a jig made up for the 210 mounts to transfer over to a ford 8.8 when the weather warms back up. My initial setup with be a factory explorer rear narrowed 3.73 locker with cut & resplined axles to save on cost and factory disc (will keep axles in if i ever break em) and i will see if i can keep costs less then $500 but if and when i start breaking stuff i will do a full build like the other guy on here has do on his KA-T 720 (720?)

 

The 240sx IRS is a good bit wider from eye balling my s13 i have sitting next to my 210 and will require alot of fab to get it to fit correctly

[drowning in broken cars]

im going to attempting to get a jig made up for the 210 mounts to transfer over to a ford 8.8 when the weather warms back up. My initial setup with be a factory explorer rear narrowed 3.73 locker with cut & resplined axles to save on cost and factory disc (will keep axles in if i ever break em) and i will see if i can keep costs less then $500 but if and when i start breaking stuff i will do a full build like the other guy on here has do on his KA-T 720 (720?)

 

The 240sx IRS is a good bit wider from eye balling my s13 i have sitting next to my 210 and will require alot of fab to get it to fit correctly

are there any domestic solid axles that fit under the stock 210 without needing to narrow?

[drowning in broken cars]

Are you buying their ECU? because $400 for the ECU and $150 for every re-tune will start adding up quick and running a summer tune on a winter fuel blend is going to be asking for trouble OR nistune is in the $500 area and soldering the board into the OEM ecu is just as easy as doing a rom chip, plus you will be able to retune as much as you need to and will be able to manipulate timing tables as well as any other parameter you would need to..but hey its just a suggestion

I dont think il ever need a retune, and as far as running a tune summer vs winter gas, the fuel around here is shit anyway. only 91 and high ethanol content, Have dohc forged pistons in a sohc block i.e. about 7:1 compression so Im not worried about knock. running stock timing right now and if I got a tune itd have more conservative timing tables that Im running now anyway. plus the cost of buying a laptop soi can tune with a nistune Its less of a pain to just go rom tune. car runs perfect with just safc etc right now but a tune would be just added insurance/reliability and 400 is cheap for that.

[dez]

are there any domestic solid axles that fit under the stock 210 without needing to narrow?

 

S10's but i have seen to many that i want (8.5,disc & 30 spline) and the 8.8 are dime a dozen from explorers(and others) with disc and 31 spline axles but if i find a newer S10 with the 10 Bolt still in it ima grab that instead but you can mix and match from different vehicles

 

GM made two housings that came in these trucks, the 7.5/ 7.625 and the 8.5, both of which are ten bolts. The 7.5 has more of a squared of shape to the cover and straight axles tubes that measure 2 3/4" whereas the 8.5 uses a round cover and the axle tubes step down from 3" to 2 3/4" near the leaf pads.

 

2 wheel drive width from WMS to WMS is 54.5 inches

4 wheel drive width from WMS to WMS is 59-60 (depending who measures it) inches

 

S10 Rear end Ring Gear and Axle Sizes:

1983 to 1992 7.5" ring gear 26 spline axles

Available from 1988+ 7.625" ring gear 28 spline axles

Available from 1995 and up, 8.5" ring gear 30 spline axles, standard for 98+ ZR2's with rear discs

[datsunfreak]

The 240sx IRS is a good bit wider from eye balling my s13 i have sitting next to my 210 and will require alot of fab to get it to fit correctly

 

About 6" as I recall. You can remove 4" from the crossmember, 2" from each axle, and run positive offset wheel to get that extra 1" per side. :thumbup:

 

Not as easy as swapping in a bigger domestic diff, but not impossible either.

 

If you look closely you can see where the axles were shortened in the center, and where the cradle was shortened.

 

[jesusno2]

GM axles are shit ford, 8.8 axles aren't that great either without putting a money into them C clip eliminators decent ring and pinion not to mention their big. TOYOTA axles are way better IMO, 30 spline axle shafts and smaller than a 8.8 no stupid c clips drop out third members supra lsd avalible used with the V6 4 pinion third member bullet proof id say will stand up to 400 hp.

[dez]

GM axles are shit ford, 8.8 axles aren't that great either without putting a money into them C clip eliminators decent ring and pinion not to mention their big. TOYOTA axles are way better IMO, 30 spline axle shafts and smaller than a 8.8 no stupid c clips drop out third members supra lsd avalible used with the V6 4 pinion third member bullet proof id say will stand up to 400 hp.

 

GM & Ford axles are proven with lots of aftermarket support. from what i can find the supra rears are 7.5" ring gears so it would only make sense for them to be smaller and a axle lsd combo is $1500 from weir performance :confused:

[dez]

About 6" as I recall. You can remove 4" from the crossmember, 2" from each axle, and run positive offset wheel to get that extra 1" per side. :thumbup:

 

Not as easy as swapping in a bigger domestic diff, but not impossible either.

 

If you look closely you can see where the axles were shortened in the center, and where the cradle was shortened.

 

 

any links to this build?...id like to see where they cut up the crossmember

[datsunfreak]

any links to this build?...

 

Sadly no, it was done quite awhile back. I have some other detail pics, but there was no build thread done.

 

id like to see where they cut up the crossmember

 

All cuts were in the middle of the crossmember. He cut the rear dead center (redrilled new mounting holes), and the front on either side of the diff.