really_drunk Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 so I'm pretty sure I run the green and blk and red to positive on the coil to the B on dizzy.. But the negative on the coil has a blue and white and what in guessing is the negative on the ballast has a blk and yellow.. Do I combine the blue and white w/ the black n yellow n run it to the negative on coil and the C on the dizzy? Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 My bad.. It's a 70' 521 not sure if wire colors are stock or previous owners.. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 What? Are you replacing a points distributor with a matchbox distributor? You mentioned B and C? Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 Yeah replacing points w/ matchbox distributor. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 With a name of "really_drunk" and a can of bud lite in the picture I am not sure if I want this truck running. This is a stock 521 ignition coil, that has to be used with a ballast resistor. The black wire with the white stripe, that was repaired with a red butt connector, is power from the ignition switch, with the key on it run position. There is a black wire with a red stripe going to the bottom terminal on the coil. This wire supplies power to the coil, bypassing the ballast resistor with the key in the start position. The red and black pair of wires going up past the relay in the picture, goes to my matchbox distributor. This is the red and black pair of wires at the distributor. "B" terminal on the matchbox module, goes to battery, or coil plus. "C" terminal on the matchbox module, goes to coil minus. There is also a black wire grounding the distributor. This is a project in progress. I have not had this engine running at a high RPM, under load. But it does start and run easily in the garage. This set up does limit the current going through the coil, because of the ballast resistor. The matchbox distributor draws very little current at idle and more current as RPM's increase. once this truck is driving, I may have to change the wiring a little. Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 I have a coil for el ignition so i dont need ballast correct? Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 correct.....connect the black/white wire to the coil + (from your first pic) If you don't, it won't stay running after you let off the key from start to run. Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 Sounds good!! I'll try it when I get home from work! Thanx guys! Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 An EI coil does not need the ballast resistor. I have gotten am EI coil for this truck, just have not put it on yet. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 really drunk hopefully you have the complete matchbox with the pedastal as a whole unit. http://community.rat...l-motors-4-cyl/ get a printer and print this out everybody and save it!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aBTjhJMByo&feature=relmfu 2 Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 Ok well she wants to fire up but as soon as I let key go it dies.. Wired wrong I'm thinking. I have a red n black, black n white,green, and B from the dizzy going to + on coil.. And a blue n white and C from dizzy going to - on coil. Any ideas? and pic of starter wired right I think.. Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 I'm switching from points to matchbox.. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 With the key in the "on" position, take a test light and find the hot wire from the ign switch. According to my notes, it should be the black/white wire. That wire comes from the ign switch and goes to the resistor and the fuse box. If you're test light doesn't light at the + term on the coil with the key on, check at the IGN term on the fuse box.....if it's not there, check the back of your ignition switch for power on the b/w wire with the key on. If you do have power at the fuse box, start physically chasing the wire for some kind of break. If need be....for testing, run a new wire from the IGN term on the fuse box to the + of the coil and it should stay running. It will not shut off until you remove that wire, so be careful. Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 I checked the blk n white wire in the ON position and it light up and i ran the wire from the fuse as u said..I'm thinking ignition switch? Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 This is what I get.. Fires up but have to keep key on.. http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/really_drunk/d1e86b9e.mp4 Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Nvm I figured it out!! =) Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 What was the solution? Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 We've already put some time into this, so I hope you at least tell us what it was........if only for the sake of the next guy with this problem.....so they don't read the thread and get left hanging. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 ......and more importantly....you need to say what the fix was, even if it was a silly mistake, because otherwise, you simply convince guys like me to not waste my time in the future. As it is, I typically sit back until things get really desperate and someone pm's me for help. No big deal if you lose me, I'll just keep doing my thing.....but this forum still really needs guys like ggzilla, hainz and Daniel C helping out. Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 The P/0 had a kill switch .. Been sitting for 18 yrs n totally forgot about it! I thank all u guys for ur suggestions n help!! I am I debt to all that helped me!! So here's a vid for u guys :) http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r630/really_drunk/05447e5c.mp4 Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Str8 header by the way.. Gotta save for exhaust.. Ratsun for life!! Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Sweet! That's a great answer! :) My wife's has one too....if it ever got flipped, I'd probably go nuts trying to figure it out. Since you had power like you should, I'm guessing the switch interrupts something else. You're more than welcome and thank you for letting us know :) Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Ahhh... so lesson is ask the P.O. Good to know. Quote Link to comment
really_drunk Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 =) i just cant stop effin smiling... now to refill tranny n diff and see if it will roll, after i buy a tire... =/ Quote Link to comment
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