Kizer Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Hi guys. I hope this is the right place to ask this... As you can see I have mostly just read on here the last few years but never posted. Anyways. My issue is that I have water getting into the rear 2 cylinders(not consistantly). Once a week or so. I changed the head gasket last summer thinnking that was the problem but the head gasket looked brand new. No problems with it at all. So my question is can the water be getting in through the intake somehow? I have inspected the head and maybe jsut a few valve dents from a previous owner busting a timing chain or something? but no real issues as the car runs great. Compression is somewhere around 80psi last time i checked. I do not think the head has been shaved but I was thinking of adding some washers to the head bolts just to see if it helps. There is enough water to stop the engine from turning when trying to start. No water in the oil either. And its only the rear 2 cylinders. Here is my setup. L20b A87 Peanut Head dual SUs Please help with any ideas will be appreciated. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Why Would You Add Washers To The Head Bolts? Maybe Your Head Is Warped... But That Would Cause Oil To Mix In? I Would Have The Intake Manifold Checked Out Too Quote Link to comment
Kizer Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 I would add washers because the head bolts could maybe be bottoming out if the head was shaved? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 80 PSI and water in the back two cylinders indicates a warped head or poorly sealing head gasket. Washers won't help but assuring that the bolt threads and those in the block are scrupulously clean IS. Dirt, rust and or gasket material in the hole can cause the bolt to torque to the proper amount but not be clamping the head properly. Both the head and the block surface must also be CLEAN as you can get it. Why Would You Add Washers To The Head Bolts? Maybe Your Head Is Warped... But That Would Cause Oil To Mix In? I Would Have The Intake Manifold Checked Out Too The oil passage is well sealed and out by the edge of the head and block. I've never seen one leak into the water jacket. I guess it's possible but remote. I would add washers because the head bolts could maybe be bottoming out if the head was shaved? It would take a hell of a shave to cause that. So don't worry. Remove the head (with manifolds attached... it's easier) and check for a warp by placing a straight edge diagonally across the head in an X pattern and try to slip a 0.005" feeler gauge under it. While at it now remove the intake/exhaust manifolds and inspect and replace the gasket. (I doubt this is the source of the coolant) Quote Link to comment
Kizer Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Ill go check compression again if i can find my tester i could be wrong on that. :P Quote Link to comment
Kizer Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 ok. sorry for the miss information guys. its averaging 170-180 psi all the way accross. Could be a crack i guess or warp. but wouldnt that make it a chronic problem. It didnt do it all winter. seems to do it only in the summer. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 That's a good compression and almost rules out a warped head or at least a blown gasket between #3and #4. So how do you know there's water in those cylinders? What do you see and do about it??? Is your rad level constantly going down?? Is there a steamy white cloud out the exhaust?? Quote Link to comment
Kizer Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Yea. the engine ceases when trying to start. i take the plugs out of 3-4 and turn it over and green water shoots out. and yes then it white clouds for a few minutes till it stopps missing. then runs fine again. Water only goes down on the days that this happens. I also forgot to mention that last time I took the head off when i thought it was a blown gasket. The gasket didnt even look compressed . IT was like like brand new, basically just slid right off as I was pulling the head. Thas also why i was thinking of putting some washers to try and get it torked down a bit better. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Well a compression test won't always show a small leak. The compression only peaks at TDC and then only for a small fraction of a second so not a lot of time to leak out. Get a fitting that fits the plug hole and apply compressed air to that cylinder when it is at TDC with both valves closed. Be sure to place in 4th and apply the brake to prevent the piston going down by accident. If the rad is full and bubbles come out then this is where it's coming from. Quote Link to comment
Kizer Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Thanks for all the help guys. Ill probably jsut deal with it until I find a VG30 or a KA24. Not a huge deal really. Just was mostly curious if anyone has encountered the problem before. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 what head do you have does it have coolant ports ? what intake do you have does it have coolant ports and is it cracked or warped? Quote Link to comment
Kizer Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 I have an A87 peanut head. not sure what it came off of... maybe the 240z or 260z... assuming thats where the SU carbs came from as well. likely same motor? I did not put it together. There is a water hose going into the intake manifold. which is why I was thinking maybe thats what is causing the problem. (aside from maybe the head isnt torking down right) I am not sure how the intakes are designed. there is one hose going in... does it return through the head in that case? or is there no outlet. (sorry if this is a stupid question.) Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 A cracked intake manifold can cause that too. There's a bunch of things it could be. Blown head gasket (caused by a warped head), cracked head, cracked block, cracked intake manifold, blown intake manifold gasket. I had one (a NAPS-Z, but they're similar) where the prior owner just RTV'ed the old manifold gasket and slapped it on... had 2 cylinders full of water. The fact that it is 2 cylinders and in the back suggests a cracked intake or bad manifold gasket. Reason it doesn't always happen could be because with the valves closed, it doesn't fill the cylinder. Or, it's on the exhaust stroke so just pushes the water out. But eventually the bugger will try to start with one cylinder half full and you'd bend a rod. If you don't fix it right, you'll have to ALWAY pull the plugs before ever trying to crank it to ensure the water is out. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 You can find the leak with a radiator pressure test. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Well My Head Was Warped And Caused A Blown Head Gasket Then Water Started To Mix Into The Oil Between 2-3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Water, if there is enough will be forced down past the rings and mix with the oil. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 A87 s dont come from 240/260zs those are 6 cyl motors. I would swap another head. loose intake bolts or a lame header with the funky spacers causing it to not seat right could be it also. cracked inside the the intake esp if matched ported causes the casting to be thin and maybe overheated thus causeing water lost http://vimeo.com/19077890 Quote Link to comment
Kizer Posted June 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 A cracked intake manifold can cause that too. There's a bunch of things it could be. Blown head gasket (caused by a warped head), cracked head, cracked block, cracked intake manifold, blown intake manifold gasket. I had one (a NAPS-Z, but they're similar) where the prior owner just RTV'ed the old manifold gasket and slapped it on... had 2 cylinders full of water. The fact that it is 2 cylinders and in the back suggests a cracked intake or bad manifold gasket. Reason it doesn't always happen could be because with the valves closed, it doesn't fill the cylinder. Or, it's on the exhaust stroke so just pushes the water out. But eventually the bugger will try to start with one cylinder half full and you'd bend a rod. If you don't fix it right, you'll have to ALWAY pull the plugs before ever trying to crank it to ensure the water is out. You sound like my dad. lol . I like that. And you're probably right. A87 s dont come from 240/260zs those are 6 cyl motors. I would swap another head. loose intake bolts or a lame header with the funky spacers causing it to not seat right could be it also. cracked inside the the intake esp if matched ported causes the casting to be thin and maybe overheated thus causeing water lost http://vimeo.com/19077890 So it could be coming rom the intake? Which was my main question from the beginning. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 I had water comming out my exhaust once and find out my intake gasket was kinda worn. I replaced this or just tighten it up(it can suck the water in) and it was OK. or soembody Hogged out the intakes and was getting too thin. L20s are know for the center water passage to crack. But this is most likely not your case. If thats your car in the avatar just sell it to me and Ill fix it Quote Link to comment
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