datun68510 Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 recently my alternator on my 68' 510 went out, well the bearings are going out and I get less and less charge every day. I purchased an alternator from a 73 620 like I have in the past with no issue's. This proved to be a failure on my part. I assumed before looking that I had the "T" conection on my current alt as I have had on previous datsun 510's. Low and behold when I went to swap them out...I found out it is quite different on my 68. I have a plug that has 4 wires that go to it ( yellow, black, white, white/black) As well as a larger white wire and a larger black wire connected to the body of the alt for a total of 6 wires that go to the current alt. Before I connect the new alt to the car and quite possibly kill it in my trial and error I thought I should throw the question to you all knowing datsun fans. Is there an easy way to hook this up without damaging the new unit. The new alternator has a total of 4 connections (the "T" connection with the letters "F" and "N") along with the alt body connection "E", and finally the connection to the internal VR with the letter "A". Please help, I dont want to kill my only driving car atm. So far I'm thinking that both solid black wires would be ground and both white wires would be power 12v , The rest I have no idea, my brain fails me atm derp, hard to focus with my kids running around arguing lol, any help appreciated, thanks DS. 4/20/78 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 early 510s have an early alternator, 4-wire connector. Late 510s have the 2-wire connector. Return the alternator and purchase the correct type. 'm thinking that both solid black wires would be ground and both white wires would be power 12v Nope, doesn't work that way. Quote Link to comment
datun68510 Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 I would love to come across the correct type but nobody seems to have it. I have tried autozone, baxter, O'riely, import auto. My latest phone call some guy told me good luck with that....He said my best option would be to have it rebuilt by battery specialists but, that would cost over 100.00 that I dont have atm =(. Interesting part is I have seen this swap done before but thought nothing of it at the time because I didn't have this issue. From what I remember my friend totally bypassed the voltage regulator (the one on the side inner fender) because of the internal one. I know this can be done. I guess If worse comes to worse I could swap the internals from the new to the old (stator, magnets, ect) but, that would leave my car undrivable for a bit =/ Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Get an alternator for a 1968 Datsun 510. They are $50 from Rockauto Quote Link to comment
datun68510 Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Looks like that may be my best bet =(. Bad thing is I live in an apt so when I have stuff shipped here I often never see it o.o hmmmm perhaps do they have a local store? Looked in the yellow pages with no luck =(. On another note after a whole day of searching for this specific alternator I found one or so I thought.... guy on the phone told me "yeah its the 4 wired plug" went to pick it up and....No its not sir...lol. Was worth a try though...I suppose I'll have to wait until a datsun meet or something =(. I hope she dosn't go completely out untill that day. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Can you get the alternator shipped to where you work? Quote Link to comment
Spades Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Duralast part # 14107 shows it is externally regulated with a 4 prong plug. keep in mind these old alternators are around 30 amps, the newer internally regulated alternators are about double that. I also can not vouch for the Duralast brand, but the pictures and description appear correct, you can find it on Autozones website. You can also look up on the forums here for directions on converting an old externally regulated system to an internally regulated alternator. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 I had a 69 510 wagon with the 4 prong connector as well. I still have the alternator in my shed I believe, you can have it if you come and get it (if its still there, it works) However, I threw in an internally regulated alternator in that car. I did the wire jump at the connector (i used two wires and 4 spade ends to retain the original connector). Then installed the alt, it was grounded and the battery wire hooked up. I didn't do anything about the 4 prong besides leave it hanging. Car is still driving to this day, I don't know if the charge light works or not but it charges the battery just fine. Quote Link to comment
datun68510 Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 def good to know. I'll have to look that up here somewhere to see how that works. Thanks for the info guys, I would rather go with a little higher amps if I can. Now on to the what seems like an endless search lol. edit: hmmmm, cant seem to find the info on the 4 wires to 2. back to searching =/ Quote Link to comment
KFunk740 Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Hey, you're in the same boat as me: http://community.rat...hould-it-be-on/ To me, it looks like the white wire just needs connected to a 12V source, like the battery or starter post. I'm going to experiment with it tonight. I'd post up my results tonight, but I don't have internet at my new home yet. You'll have to wait till tomorrow, unless you want to PM me your phone #. Quote Link to comment
datun68510 Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 That would be great, definetly post your results im very interested... I dont want to hook it up wrong and fry my wiring. I would experiment but, this is my only transportation atm. If you dont find a solution I may have to wait for my next 2 days off in a row to give me plenty of time to fix in case i fail..lol I currently dont have a cell phone atm =( too many bills to take care of atm, perhaps in the future. Thanks ahead of time for what you may find out, hopefully good news =) Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 11, 2012 Report Share Posted May 11, 2012 Here's how to connect a 1980 Datsun 720 35A internally-regulated alternator up where the old 25A or 30A 4-wire went: http://datsun1200.co...h_4-pin_Harness Quote Link to comment
KFunk740 Posted May 11, 2012 Report Share Posted May 11, 2012 OK,, no awesome results from me yet, but I *think* you'll get it to work if you just connect the yellow to the yellow/N post, white/black to white/black F post, black to ground on back of alt, and white to white/red or + post on back of alt (or to battery +). That's pretty much the same thing ggzilla said in my thread, but I tried it before I read his response. Unfortunately when I do it, it overregulates it back down to 12.5V, even with my VR bypassed. If I disconnect the white 12V white wire, the voltage jumps back to 16 or 17V, and the idle speed drops. So yeah, I've still got some other issue that may be unrelated to alt and VR... I'm gonna try an IR Nissan alt that my dad had sitting around for testing purposes, but I'm doubtful. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 12, 2012 Report Share Posted May 12, 2012 12.5 volts mean it is not charging. Maybe the Voltage Regulator is bad. Although if the VR is bypassed, it should not be regulating ... Quote Link to comment
KFunk740 Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 Seems to be working OK with new VR (replaced under warrranty), with white wire connected to positive on back of alt, black hooked to ground, white/black to white/black, and yellow to yellow, etc. Voltage up to a steady 13.8V at least, not sure why it won't go above that. I'll double-check tonight. At least it's charging some, and the IGN light is out. I think the Duralast VRs from Autozone are just crap. I need to find a new source (but I figure others come from same manufacturer), or just go IR. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 If the voltage is not in spec, and the alternator when hot wired goes above 15V, return the regulator and get a good unit. Here are the specs for lead-acid batteries: Temperature, Voltage 14F 14.0-15.5 32F 14.5-15.5 50F 14.8-15.3 68F 14.2-15.2 88F 14.0-15.0 104F 13.9-14.9 Quote Link to comment
KFunk740 Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 If the voltage is not in spec, and the alternator when hot wired goes above 15V, return the regulator and get a good unit. Not gonna do that for the third time. Not worth the effort to get more junk. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 13.8 is fine. Is this a puny 35amper? they can vary abit. i have a stack of VRs and they all ready different. I think the autozone are really Wells brand VRs with a gold tone thin metal square shape. I have good luck with them. Unless there a loose batt connection and yu try to start the car they can bust. If I was you and if SMART you better buy 2 more in case these soon go out of stock and NLA. I have stacks of Non regualted alternators so Ill never go the IR rount unless the alternator was given to me. Quote Link to comment
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