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Everything posted by KFunk740

  1. It's been a couple weeks, but DB Electrical finally sent me the exterior dimensions I e-mailed about, hah.
  2. It says its 63 amp. The headlights may be better, not sure. They've never been great, and I've never bothered to figure out how to aim them properly, hah. My heater switch/blower has always been a little goofy too, no real improvement there, but again probably not due to lack of power.
  3. There she is on my J13, nice constant 14V. Driven it maybe a couple hundred miles. Just search for Datsun one wire alternator and this popped up on Amazon and looked close enough: https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-ADR0152-Self-Excited-90-01-3125S-70-01-7127SE/dp/B0081S9C16?fbclid=IwAR0OHMC6cHrNJ-FwB3f21Waqmd-za98edIext5njvoOatHYmAywhoBtjBXc Biggest concern was space between the block and the battery tray, and couldn't find dimensions online. I went ahead and gave it a shot, and it fit fine with no modification. It fit right in the bracket that was on my truck (no idea if t
  4. Ansza messaged me, and I'll also update on the thread here for the record, that there is no update! Sorry, never got around to messing with it anymore. I still drive the truck regularly and choke it just a bit. I've now got two young children, and minimal time to mess around in the garage. I guess I still haven't peaked into that venturi. My 3 year old loves looking at the engines on my cars, so maybe I can manage that sometime.
  5. You mean the modern Jeep Commander, from 2010+? and not some old model? Just making mental notes myself, in case mine ever gets busted. I haven't heard anyone mention a specific model before. I have a shop that would certainly help find one as well, but it'd be nice to give them a head start. Thanks for the help.
  6. New o-rings from hardware store fit fine, but of a pain to wrestle inner one in and out, but it’s in there. I ended up just using a rubber washer between the drive and cable housing. The fit was pretty loose around the inner cable, but I figured out that seal just keeps oil from getting into the cable housing. The outer portion is the one that keeps gear oil from getting to outside, of which the flat rubber washer should do the job. I also put some ultra black rtv around the end of cable housing before tightening it down, just for good measure. I drove it around a little to make sure Speedo
  7. I picked up a whole bunch of o-rings, rubber washers, grommets, and ultra black RTV; and we'll see what works after I get done mowing the grass tonight. With any luck, I may have to drive truck a couple hours to pick up a swing set this weekend.
  8. wait, are you DaveR or did he grab pics from you? Hah. Seems like if rubber is fairly pliable, should slip on from bottom. The old one slipped right off of bottom. Center ring not damaged, only outer ring. Don’t think Teflon tape would help on threads much, it’s not leakin from threads. It’s coming right down the middle along the cable housing. It eventually drips onto my exhaust, which is the real problem. Stinks like hell, and probably a fire hazard. I might consider packing some rtv around the cable housing as well before tightening it down.
  9. So, googling other Datsun speedo cables to see if there's similar, I found this Z car thread, in which the cable end and grommet looks exactly the same as mine: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55640-speedometer-cable-grommet-trans/ No good source for that grommet alone, but one guy said you can just use a flat rubber washer. I'll probably do that for near future, and see if it leaks anymore. If it still leaks, order a new Zcar cable and steal the grommet out of it. I've found some for $30 to $50 incl. shipping.
  10. Finally got around to taking it out. When I first put a wrench on it, realized it wasn’t in very tight, so I tightened it up and saw if it would hold for a week or two. It did not. When I took cable off, realized a weird seal at end of cable was real busted up. Doubt I can find a generic for that. I further took the speedo drive gear out, with a 1 1/8” socket, it all slid right out. A quart or 2 of gear oil did drain out, woo. The internal and external o rings didn’t look terrible. No signs outer was leaking, all oil was coming out center. Internal ring seems ok, but some has to be
  11. Hey, at least that gets me to some webpages now! I think I tried those numbers before when I looked in the 320 parts catalog, but got zero results, not sure what I did wrong. This transmission certainly looks like mine: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/bluebird-1964-1965/power-train/transmission-case/4-speed I actually think the J13 in my truck may have came from a 410 and not a 520, forget how I reached that conclusion, maybe the number on the block. So, my tranny could be original or from the donor. So, they're just simple rubber o-rings? By those figures, the speedo drive gear i
  12. Hey, we talked about this very thing before! http://community.ratsun.net/topic/34539-1966-datsun-520-transmission/
  13. Sorry, its parked outside at work and a bit tough to get a good pic. I assumed all 320s had the dipstick, or is mine just a weirdo? I love it, its right by the gas pedal. https://imgur.com/a/fknSw1L The shifter sits up in a weird little housing of its own, which leaks a lot of oil too. At least its up high, and I can check my dipstick regularly.
  14. Anybody have any luck finding something that works for a seal in the speedometer drive? Is it just felt or a rubber o-ring? I've found several part numbers in the old parts catalogs for 320s and 520s, but can't find anything via google when I search for a source. I've got a lot of gear oil coming out of mine and onto the exhaust. It's in a '65, 4-speed floor shift, with the dipstick. I'm not sure if this is an original 320 transmission or something from a 520 (truck has a J13 swapped by PO, not sure if they swapped transmission too).
  15. I forgot about this. Here's the crank that came in my trunk, it was fit snugly in the mounts behind the seat as well. Yeah there's an odd bend in it so it won't lay flat, cuz top quality, I guess. The perpendicular pin is about 1 1/8" .
  16. I guess I have no idea if mine is original or not, but it came with it and works. The Model T in the ebay ad I posted actually looks like its built a lot better than mine. I can get some pics at some point this weekend, but I'm at work right now and the Datsun doesn't come out in winter. My truck came with a J13 engine that lacked the receiver on the crankbolt, and I put on a crankbolt from a Datsun Roadster. I tried a crankbolt from an MG, and it could receive the 320 handle just fine, but threads weren't right on the crankshaft side.
  17. Just searching ebay, there are a number of hand crank starter handles that may work from old tractors and Ford cars. It's not exactly a precisely machined piece, and the end can be tweaked if necessary. You just need the little perpendicular pin near the end to grab the cogs. Without measuring anything, I bet this one may work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MODEL-T-HAND-CRANK-STARTER-HANDLE-29/382346939025?hash=item5905a74a91:g:9LoAAOSwcj1aMbgw&vxp=mtr
  18. I have an original from my 320, but not for sale. You should be able to use one from a Datsun Roadster or MG as well (may have to double check whether the bend is in the right place, but I know the end will match up to the 320 crank bolt.)
  19. I've got a J13 in my L320, and I'm not terribly far from you (Southeast Ohio). I didn't do the swap, was like it when I got it. The truck came with a whole box of various engine mounts/brackets, which I've never determined the reason for them. I've never driven one with another engine, so I can't compare. The J13 is close enough to stock that most people can't tell the difference. The alternator sits a bit too close to the battery, and the air cleaner rubs the hood prop. Both things that could be easily resolved, but I just don't care that much. It still looks basically like an MG engin
  20. I also have a J13 in my L320, but believe its the original tranny (floor shifter). I didn't do the swap myself, so can't be of too much help. It seems to have original 4.88 rear. It runs just fine by me, never hooked up a tach so I don't know the RPMs. I've put 25K miles on it, and leave it at around 60 to 65mph on the highway. I kinda wish it had the original E-1, just for the sake of being all original, but the PO couldn't find rebuild parts for the E-1 and found a J13 easier.
  21. Better yet, I could just run a 12V jumper straight to the solenoid, or maybe even just lay a screwdriver across the two posts (I've done this often in my old BMW, not sure if can be done in Datsun). I don't have a remote starter handy. Should probably get one sometime, too. The problem is the intermittency, that most of the time there's no problem to resolve. It'll start right now with the key easy, or I'm sure any other way I want to start it. I'll probably just have to pop open solenoid and/or starter to look for dirty/corroded terminals. Tempted to just order a solenoid off ebay or
  22. Every once in a while when I turn the key in my truck, it just makes a loud screeching noise from somewhere in the engine. Doesn't even feel like its attempting to start. Then I let off the key, and do it again, it usually starts right up like normal. Its usually on cold starts, but today after stopping at a taco stand, it did it for a while. 2nd attempt still made the screeching sound, then on third try it started right up no problem. My initial thought is that there are some bad teeth on ring gear or starter pinion. I'm thinking about pulling starter to inspect teeth, and looking to
  23. In the other thread, the guy (Tankel) said the wholesale price is 315 clear or 325 with tint. So, there's a little markup, but not sure if it's worth the hassle of overseas shipping to get around him.
  24. Well, what the hell? I googled the part number they listed 'NAGS FW177', and voila! http://www.specialtyautointeriors.com/online-store/L-320-Pickup-Windshield-Glass-p82845415 Those are different guys are in California. Mass production?
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