Trying to Find a solid trans mount

[KA620KC]

Any body know where I can find a solid or urethane trans mount for a 620 with a KA swap?? I've been searching on the web and can't seem to find any. I've got my KA swap and it seems I can't keep my mount in one piece. Has anyone else had this problem??

[ggzilla]

Nobody makes one. The stock Nissan one is high-density rubber, almost as hard as polyurethane.

 

it seems I can't keep my mount in one piece

Your transmission may be out of line with the differential snout. Even 1 degree out can cause vibration problems. Basically the crankshaft/transmission shaft needs to be at the same angle as your original engine. The shaft can be higher or lower but must be at the same angle.

 

You can measure this with a protractor http://www.summitracing.com/parts/POW-POW351073/

[KA620KC]

Yeah I thought about that too. I'll have to double check my angles one more tme. thanks!

[I'm BLUE]

What ggzilla said

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/81645/10002/-1?parentProductId=1283217

 

(2) of these ^^^..these are what i use ... lifesavers ...magnetic bases ... not all angle finders are created equal though ... these are cheapys ... but work good for hobbyist!

[KA620KC]

Just curious though. Being that I have a center support (king cab) Wouldn't that negate the differenetial angle as compared to the transmission angle? Please correct me if i'm wrong there. Or Should I be measuring the angle between the center support and the tailshaft of the transmission?

[ggzilla]

Good point

 

Measure the angle of the front half of the driveshaft and the angle of the pinion. They should match.

[Icoblue]

Sorry, not trying to threadjack here, but I'm doing the KA swap right now, using the engine and transmission from a 2000 Frontier. I've got the engine dropped on the mounts, and I'm getting ready to mod the trans mount to accept my new trans. Are you saying that the vertical angle has to be equal for the transmission output shaft (pinion) and the front section of the drive shaft? The horizontal angle obviously must be in line with the differential input shaft, and if the vertical were also in line, wouldn't that defeat the purpose of the U-joints in the front section?

 

Just want to make sure before I waste time doing something the wrong way.

[Boaty]

Not sure exactly what mount you're using/crossmember, etc.

 

But check this page out, might help you out.

http://mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_motor+mount+styles

 

They have OE rubber, solid, and poly for a trans mount... Not sure what app it's for but they might have something that would work?

[ggzilla]

Just make the angles match the stock 720 setup (or whatever truck you are fitting it into). Measure the existing angles before you start.

[datzenmike]

What transmission are you using???

[KA620KC]

I'm using the stock trans from the 240sx. The only thing done to it is an aluminum flywheel and an ACT clutch.

[KA620KC]

Also I emailed mckinney motorsports and they suggested I modify a factory ford or chevy transmount.

 

[Boaty]

Well there you go!

 

So now, you have a duty to perform.

A full write-up, complete with pictures and instructions, measurements, and tips - on how you built it!

[ggzilla]

If you want a solid mount, just weld up a stocker ... why look for a special mount? Guys just weld the the two metals parts together.

[datzenmike]

Any body know where I can find a solid or urethane trans mount for a 620 with a KA swap?? I've been searching on the web and can't seem to find any. I've got my KA swap and it seems I can't keep my mount in one piece. Has anyone else had this problem??

 

It can't be the mount's fault. There are tens of thousands of KAs out there with mounts that don't break so why is this one? Could it be that the motor mounts are at fault and allowing too much forward/backward movement when accelerating? Perhaps the motor is twisting to the side too much from torque??? A polly mount will transmit too much vibration and noise to the frame.

[KA620KC]

It could be the engine mounts. I haven't noticed any "extra" movement though. Maybe I will just change them out any way. They are cheap enough to just change. Since we are on the subject of drivelines, does any one got suggestions to minimize axle wrap or wheel hop? I'm using a set of leaf spring clamps on the front of the leaf springs which has helped a bit.

 

[I'm BLUE]

*Traction-bars

*Poly Leaf Spring Bushings

*Load Helper Springs ( usually ad-a-leaf ,,, "hellwig" brand is good if applicable ... but remember helper springs put a lot of stress on original leaf springs. )

( no help with wrap up ---> )*Pan-hard bar or possibly a watts link will keep it from walking side to side ... ( watts link is cooler than shit ... lol )

 

If you can fabricate or weld ,,, and in a bit more extreme solution / more $$$ case ---> Triangluated 4-link or parralell 4-link is good stuff ,,, combined with coil-overs ( stiffer springs ) ,,, and a panhard bar or a watts link .... but like any aftermarket suspension setup ... all pros and cons ,,, both ways ! lol.

 

^^^ Before doing any of this ... make sure state law is a-ok.

 

I Know traction-bars are looked down upon in Oregon .,,, lol

[EricJB]

When I put the 406 SBC in my 280z, I made the angle of the harmonic ballancer and the pinion flange the same. And then I made the output shaft of the trans and the pinion shaft the same height.

 

If you put a solid trans mount in with stock engine mounts, you will be relying on the trans mount to keep the engine from torqueing over. It will probably breaks the ears off the trans case.

 

As stated previously, urathane or solid mounts will transmit a lot of noise and vibrations that will rattle your teeth out. Good stock mounts installed without any binding or preload should work fine. Good luck.

[I'm BLUE]

When I put the 406 SBC in my 280z, I made the angle of the harmonic ballancer and the pinion flange the same. And then I made the output shaft of the trans and the pinion shaft the same height.

 

If you put a solid trans mount in with stock engine mounts, you will be relying on the trans mount to keep the engine from torqueing over. It will probably breaks the ears off the trans case.

 

As stated previously, urathane or solid mounts will transmit a lot of noise and vibrations that will rattle your teeth out. Good stock mounts installed without any binding or preload should work fine. Good luck.

 

Yup ! I was just typing about that exact same thing ! ... I deleted it as no need for my 2 cents on that haha ;)

 

In addition ,,, Poly is as hard as you will ever want to go ,,, If it is the engine mounts or even the engine prone to RIPPING soft oem subber mounts ,,, just make a cable limiter ... local hardware sotre has all the supplies

[KA620KC]

Yeah I even thought about making an engine stablizer too. But I'm sure I have something out of alignment because I haven't seen anyone else with this issue. I tried installing traction bars....a big fat negative on that one. The traction bars sat about an ass hair off the ground when I let the truck down. So those came back off. I've been talking to a buddy of mine who races Sprint cars and he suggested I just build a single upper traction bar. Weld some tabs to the top of the axle and then run it parallel with the frame. I may be a little off on the exact mechanics or explanation here but I'm sure you guys get the idea. I have toy'd with the idea of doing a complete change out to coil over suspension and link bars. But we all know what its like to own a datsun! No cash for the "cool" stuff LOL I do appreciate all the info guys thanks.