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Project Papa Smurf


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what do you mean when you say the Datsport kit is made for more angle than the zx ones?

QUOTE]

 

I think what Icehouse means is that the control arms are to long and you have to run tons of camber to get your wheels to fit under the fenders we did that kit in a customers car and we had to take the control arms out and cut them and make them adjustable to clear...Very nice car by the way

 

Clayton

so you're saying I'll need to modify the kit or my 280 struts to make it fit?

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so you're saying I'll need to modify the kit or my 280 struts to make it fit?

 

I cant remember its been a few years now but I would say out it together and see, removing the control arms is easy enough if they need to be modified

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I used the 87 88 200sx V6 struts, they have a better spindle angle than that of the 280zx, it will allow you to run a more pos offset wheel, it gives you more clearance at the rim edge and strut tube + you get the 5 lug hub also. Camber plates correct the camber and it's easily adjusted to 1.5 degrees.....that which most run on camber. I just did this swap, I used +30 offset wheels, 17x7-1/2 on the front, I redrilled my crossmember to narrow the track 1-1/4 inch on both sides, but had i got the +35 or +40 offset wheel I may have been ok with the set up as it was. When I redrilled my front cross it therfore lowered the pivot point of my LCA's so I had to run bumpsteer spacers to correct...it seems to be fine, rides good and handles good, I am no racer, so nothing to base my cars handling against.....hope this helps.

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ONe other thing you may want to consider is the transmission cross, I changed to the Dave Carroll model so the 3 inch stainless exhaust would clear, it's really hard to route a big exhaust around the Datsport trans cross.....The DC model makes it easy....just a thought.

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I used the 87 88 200sx V6 struts, they have a better spindle angle than that of the 280zx, it will allow you to run a more pos offset wheel, it gives you more clearance at the rim edge and strut tube + you get the 5 lug hub also. Camber plates correct the camber and it's easily adjusted to 1.5 degrees.....that which most run on camber. I just did this swap, I used +30 offset wheels, 17x7-1/2 on the front, I redrilled my crossmember to narrow the track 1-1/4 inch on both sides, but had i got the +35 or +40 offset wheel I may have been ok with the set up as it was. When I redrilled my front cross it therfore lowered the pivot point of my LCA's so I had to run bumpsteer spacers to correct...it seems to be fine, rides good and handles good, I am no racer, so nothing to base my cars handling against.....hope this helps.

 

thanks for the input!

do you have pictures to go with your explanation?

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so I'm just about ready to send stuff in to get prettied up.

the manifold will be ceramic coated and the valve cover ceramic coated mettallic and then polished

sr20stand.jpg

got the turbo taken apart and ready to send in. the turbine housing is going to be ceramic coated black and the compressor housing is going to be "cermachromed" which is a ceramic/aluminum process that is then polished

potatopieces.jpg

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I talked about some of it on my thread on the Realm, here's the link, not too many pics of this problem, it would have been much easier to get a better offset wheel than re-drill the front crossmember, but i already had the wheels and TE-37s are hard to get in any offset in the states....so there you go! you can give me a call anytime and I can explain more in detail what I did, my number is 360-929-2524, at least for the next week, I leave for Japan in a week, so you should call soon! Rich

http://www.the510realm.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8114&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=210

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I talked about some of it on my thread on the Realm, here's the link, not too many pics of this problem, it would have been much easier to get a better offset wheel than re-drill the front crossmember, but i already had the wheels and TE-37s are hard to get in any offset in the states....so there you go! you can give me a call anytime and I can explain more in detail what I did, my number is 360-929-2524, at least for the next week, I leave for Japan in a week, so you should call soon! Rich

http://www.the510realm.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8114&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=210

 

sweet man! thanks for the info the offer for help. I'm not quite there yet, so maybe I'll call you in a month or two if that's cool.

WORD

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Guest jaimesix

Looks like an appropiate Dart Board!!!!!!:D

 

C mon....let be be the first.....:lol:

I wish I learned on something cool. I had to learn on a FORD. hey at least they circle the problem

 

Ford_Motor_Company_Logo.svg.png

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  • 4 weeks later...
done yet? haha

 

hahaha..... PUNK. :D

 

 

I wish man.

right now I'm waiting for my parts to come back. I sent the manifold, compressor and turbine housings and my valve cover to get ceramic coated.

I should have my rocker arm stoppers soon to install while my valve cover is off.

I'll take pics when I get going.

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  • 2 weeks later...

finally got my valve cover, compressor and turbine housings, manifold and adapter flange back from getting ceramic coated.

they turned out PURDY

 

2311502_14_full.jpg

2311502_15_full.jpg

now I can modify the valve cover for the greddy RAS

and put my new nismo/tomei 550cc injectors on!

but I need to send the turbo parts back since there are blemishes:confused:

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  • 2 months later...
Any updates?

 

yes, actually! haha

I've got all the ceramic blemishes fixed and now I just need to get some good exhaust grade bolts to put the turbo adapter flange on the manifold (which is now bolted to the motor)

I have to do a little more shaving on one of the baffles for the valve cover to fit since I put the rocker arm stoppers on.

but I got my solex locks installed as per the "how to" section right here on ratsun!

 

I'll try and post some pics this week(no promises)

 

thanks for your interest :)

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  • 2 years later...

ok. I'm embarrassed. It's been two years since I posted updates to this swap. Crap! I'm sorry for being so lame! I moved in to a new house a year and a half ago and am finally settled and moved the roadster out of the garage to make room for the swap.

Yesterday, with the help of a friend, I pulled out the original cross member and complete steering linkage. Then I installed my Datsport steering brace and put the newly resurfaced flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and tranny on the motor. The motor/tranny are now on the hoist and ready to bolt in the car! I might try to follow Datsport's suggestion and bolt the new cross member on the motor and bring it up under the car instead of through the top of the engine bay..

any comments/thoughts/suggestions are welcome!

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK!

so we bolted up the sr20 from underneath and all looked good

0929102307.jpg

0930100236.jpg

finally starting to look like a drivable car!

0930100237.jpg

 

then I'm having a shop down in so-cal do the wiring for me and a few odds and ends to make it street worthy

here it is on the dolly heading to cali

0930101413.jpg

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Totally psyched to see you digging back into this puppy! You give me hope that I will get back to my '59 someday, or even do the engine swap on my 521 that has been sitting on the stand for a year and a half!

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Totally psyched to see you digging back into this puppy! You give me hope that I will get back to my '59 someday, or even do the engine swap on my 521 that has been sitting on the stand for a year and a half!

 

haha. yeah. what are you doing on your 521?

 

it felt good to get the motor in. It's getting wired and intercooled as I type this. should be done and street ready sometime in November!

I'm stoked. Final touch will be my Ratsun stickers!

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  • 2 weeks later...

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