Alex Datsun Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Well i have air, fuel, and spark but still nothing is getting it tured over. I checked timing got #1 on compression stroke and check the the angle on the distributor gear, its dead on. Weird thing is when its turning over and i hold the key it sounds as if its actually running but barel, obviously until i let go of the key. Really appreciate some insight or maybe even someone to come by help a fellow member (bay area), lunch on me. I was thinking maybe valve adjustment can be off or something? Details: L24 with triple mikunis and carter fuel pump. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 running points? how strong is the spark? Quote Link to comment
Alex Datsun Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 running points? how strong is the spark? Yeah i have points but i cant honestly answer the question 100% considering #6 broke wire broke. I just got a e12-80 and may just hookit uo to see if anything changes not to mention somebody enjoyed french braided my entire engine harness. Also my gauges friggin dong work, spark jumps but visually looks kinda weak and points look close to dam new. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Keep the points distributor on ... until you get it fired up ... then switch to electronic once free and clear .... if harness is *screwed* you don't want to fry your new module during testing phase :)... Compression check lately? Replace points .... Çheck point gap... carefully ... per manual specs ... and make sure they are not pitted! !! Verify/check coil resistor block ( under coil) Verify coil is hooked up correctly ... ( since your harness is questionable) Verify/clean/replace condensor ( so cheap just replace) Check voltage from harness to coil ( power, 2 second check) Make damn sure all (3) of your mikuni carb jets , and passage ways are free and clear ( keep in mind that carb cleaner melts plastic items) ... these get picky lol ... if i remember correctly (1) of your carbs is clogged yes? Carter fuel pump? Is it the correct one ? ( electric) that is suppose to operate around 2-3.5lbs Ish? Anything higher can really flood or screw with things ... Last time the engine ran? Any previous work at all? how bade the wiring? Oics? K thx :) ;) Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Have you turned your distributor at all in different positions until you hear the engine "catch" ? :) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Ck the igition wire in the ON position at the coil. Put key in ON and ck for voltage at the ballast resisitor. The white ceramic block. You should have 12volts. then ck the the coil. should be less like close to 6-9 volts. what I think is happening is the HOT START wire is by passing the the ballast resisitor and putting 12volts at the coil but when you go to ON your loosing the voltage. adjust the valve lash next. tighten the intake. Quote Link to comment
Alex Datsun Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 The motor is rebuilt, i just put new gaskets,accelerator pumps, with a carter fuel pump etc in. Yes we did try to slowly turn distributor until it catches but it sounds like it keeps catching over n over again. I wasnt planning on throwing on the electric dizzy till after this is situated because the simple fact i dont want to fry it. Intake mani is on pretty tight and was thinking about trying to reset my valvelash to see whats up. Also does anyone know if needs a resistor with mikunis, it was refferred from a member on HBZ with mikunis. Quote Link to comment
Alex Datsun Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 The carter pump is a constant 6-7psi and doesnt require a fuel regulator, the member that had one also ran mikunis thing is may have been 44's so i dont know if that be much of a difference to 40's. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 what I think is happening is the HOT START wire is by passing the the ballast resisitor and putting 12volts at the coil but when you go to ON your loosing the voltage. THIS ABOVE!!!!! Your ballast resistor is bad (or miswired) or no power from the ignition in the ON position but you do when cranking. This is why it seems to want to start when cranking but when you let go of the key... nothing You are not ever going to fry an E12-80 module on an EI dizzy. Quote Link to comment
Alex Datsun Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 THIS ABOVE!!!!! Your ballast resistor is bad (or miswired) or no power from the ignition in the ON position but you do when cranking. This is why it seems to want to start when cranking but when you let go of the key... nothing You are not ever going to fry an E12-80 module on an EI dizzy. Ok i will check that first since thats the 4th time i heard it in a twelve hour time frame , when i get a chance tonight or tomorow and upload pics. Nida nodda notta nevver not ever on a electric dizzy? Now i know. Thanks guys really appreciate it. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 You are not ever going to fry an E12-80 module on an EI dizzy. I too would normally say this ... but ... With the exception of Alex datsuns " French braided " engine harness wiring, unknown un-identified circumstances, and hookup .... no-one but Alex Datsun knows what it is or looks like. The safest route is points distributor until fired up, wiring figured out ... For all we know jumper wires are crossing everything or wires hooked up backwards lol ( not really) Ive had some strange things happen/fry electrical components on other cars, and not my doing either lol I guess working on more and more fool injection makes me cautious lolz. :) Quote Link to comment
Alex Datsun Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Ok after re-examining the carbs, noticed only one carb is actually spraying fuel still, any ideas where i should look? After that i grabbed some starter fluid and carb cleaner and proceeded to spray them in while cranking the car. Noticed #6 likes to shoot flames out the carbs which i would assume is backfiring through the intake but not sure if its just from the leftover starter fluid plus i do have an exhaust leak from a stripped bolt. If i keep doing it it'll start for a second, stay on for about two-three seconds and loses it while still holding the key. I borrowed a timing gun from a friend so ill be able to check timing. Im not ruling out the resistor but only until after i get the carbs spraying right. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Bunch of thread jacking assholes up in hurr jesus christ let the guy build his car, I personally think you could find one of her laying down and slap it on the whale tail or maybe hood? Hopefully she doesn't see your car and sue for copyrights :D. When I see this thread bumped I want too see an update not a bunch of circle jerking teens squabbling over stupid details. Just watch, enjoy, leave some feedback and let the guy do his magic. /threadjack You probably need to thoroughly clean your carbs again as they get dirty fast after sitting ( sediment) ... carb dip (dip the carbs) ... not carb spray type rebuild ... ;) Stick a vacuum gauge on the intake manifold ... so next time it gets running for a few seconds you will have a base. Tripple check ignition timing .... tripple check points gap .... Occasionally ignition coils will go bad and not let ignition fire more than a "pop" when cranking over... Check ignition switch ... they can fall apart ... Re-connect your ballast resistor ... you will need it with points ignition system ( clean all contacts and check all connections leading to inside distributor and out ) Check back! Quote Link to comment
Alex Datsun Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Did you quote the right thing? Lol. Thats the wiring for the coil/resistor anything look out of place. This is after i put a few new wires in after the old brittle ones broke apart or had no amperage at all going through em. Oh yeah the old plug wires are gone which helped alittle bit, you mean like fill like something up and soak the carbs in them? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 I assume that GREEN wire is the HOT START wire. ? mean when key in START it gets 12volts and goes straighg to the coil. then when key snaps back to ON then it goes thru the ballast resisitor then to the coil. HOPEFULLY THIS is a POINT coil. Not a low ohm coil. If a low ohm coil it will burn out the points faster. hopefully your plug wires are in the correct order which is COUNTER CLOCK WISE. make sure that is correct also. if using starting fluild I would think this fires up soemwhat ez for a few seconds. Quote Link to comment
Alex Datsun Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 I assume that GREEN wire is the HOT START wire. ? mean when key in START it gets 12volts and goes straighg to the coil. then when key snaps back to ON then it goes thru the ballast resisitor then to the coil. HOPEFULLY THIS is a POINT coil. Not a low ohm coil. If a low ohm coil it will burn out the points faster. hopefully your plug wires are in the correct order which is COUNTER CLOCK WISE. make sure that is correct also. if using starting fluild I would think this fires up soemwhat ez for a few seconds. Its the same coil that i was running when i had the original motor and was working fine. Yeah the green wire is the "hot" wire that splices into the red wire, i stared at the "rebuild you motor" book for the firing order which was 1,6,3,5,2,4 if i remember correctly. I double check the points and do something about the carbs soon. Quote Link to comment
Alex Datsun Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Btw after taking apart the carbs i noticed that the check balls keep getting stuck when i take them out, is that normal because it happens on only on the carbs that dont shoot fuel Quote Link to comment
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